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guessing Toyota themselves couldn't have known the relatively short plugs life for these engines so could only put an arbitrary figure on milage, it's up to us as long time users to fine tune a realistic change schedule

keep watching see get worse, could be just sender unit on the block which would be a cheap fix, good luck

Personally I’d go with 0.7 gap, gives a slightly smaller but more powerful spark against a bigger but weaker one. At full throttle when load of fuels pouring into cylinder a stronger spark gives a more consistent burn

have you the factory rear trailing arms with rubber bush or aftermarket spherical bush

Sounds like needs geo set and corner weight correctly plus almost certainly some weight on ant roll bar when flat

it's pad build up, almost impossible to warp disc, they're designed to glow red hot without issue, it'll pass with hard braking although might worse before disappearing

Good luck fitting that, hope you’ve a ramp

after fitting the air Tec red twin scoop have noticed centre console from just behind the gear lever back to behind the cup holders gets quite warm to touch so guessing good amount of air is reaching transfer box

inc height adjuster mounts, threads in perfect condition, kit as supplied by String Theory https://tinyurl.com/ay2dph9u North London - collect or add extra delivery £200

fair bit of toe IN going on there, does it understeer ?? also possible exaggerated tyre wear at rear

you're still going to kill the inside tread first on either of the front unloaded tyres as it 'scrapes' round tight corners, only way is to increase caster having a good understanding how caster works, how it induces dynamic camber and stands the wheel more upright the more you turn it then...

Typical lack of front caster, increase the caster to around 7° or more and problem will disappear, not cheap though

in my case was the number plate, my plates are Velcro attached, re applied new Velcro and no more vibration

why would they, they maybe service 3 or 4 GR's a year so not inclined to buy and stock an expensive unique oil when they can get away with using the oil from the other 500 regular Yaris's they service

unlikely it's cap, probably the small overflow outlet with rubber cap, try lowering the max fill level to just below max indicator line

it's beyond me the incompetence of Toyota, they literally have zero sense of pride or achievement, bottom line is they just don't care, it's written on the filler cap yet they still get it wrong time and time again

quite shocking here we are 4 years later and Toyota are still installing the wrong oil, if it's GF5 it's incorrect should be GF6A

they tell you what oils in engine

grips well if it's adjusted correctly, must be done in the rear hub not cable in cabin, it's a regular adjuster that most vehicles use so rear wheel off and screwdriver through adjuster hole , might need watch some videos if not sure or take to local garage

gonna take close look at this, proper faff to keep replacing 2p cable tie to stop an engine mount failing, what kind of design is that. so do you need to take insert completely out to re-tie it ?