GR86 What did you do with your GR86 today

Hello! I think that was me! About 1pm on Saturday. It's the first time I've seen one in the wild too and then I saw another on the A1 a couple of hours later!
Great stuff, hi Bob.

Your car was looking shiny and your passengers’ big grin made us smile too haha.

See you at the next Scottish ‘run’ perhaps.
 
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Not today, but yesterday - took my car out for a drive for the first time in a fortnight or more.

'Tis a great drive isn't it, on the B-roads. No Alpine FOMO for me.

A section of my journey was marred slightly by a car in front of me doing 27-31 mph on good NSL sections (without suitable overtaking opportunities). I wasn't even sure what this car was at first as a lot of new stuff looks very similar. Thought it was a Dacia, but happened to be a Skoda. A Skoda *cough* RAPID.
 
Swapped the Piano Black (OEM) Winter wheels for the Bola FLE Summer wheels (complete with new GR centre caps) and then re-programmed the car's TPMS via the OBD. First time on with the Godspeed BBK and they look great!
Next job will be to clean the removed wheels and send them off for powder coating. Colour tbc. 🤔

20250319-SummerWheels.webp
 
Hope they strip back the paint Sonic otherwise your rims are quickly going to be 0.5 wider the rate you change your colour of wheels!

Have you found a good place to get the wheels done? Hearing some shockers of places recently.
 
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Hope they strip back the paint Sonic otherwise your rims are quickly going to be 0.5 wider the rate you change your colour of wheels!
When the wheel nuts stop going through the holes I'll know it's time to knock it on the head for a while ... ;)
Have you found a good place to get the wheels done? Hearing some shockers of places recently.
I had the 'Piano Black' done by 'Skidz' in Falkirk, which was after a clusterf**k of a powdercoating job from 'Ecosse Powder Coating' in Edinburgh; My 1* review for them can still be found on Google under my alias (CB).
Whilst at Hypertech, Duncan recommended I use 'The Wheel Specialist' (TWS) in Cumbernauld rather than Skidz. He stated that Skidz sub-contract to them anyway, but I'm not sure how true that is given that Skidz comes in around £40 cheaper than TWS and declare that their work is 'in-house'. That said, there's TWS in Edinburgh, which is closer than either of them so I might just end up going there. Yet to decide on the colour for this season 🧥
 
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Swapped the Piano Black (OEM) Winter wheels for the Bola FLE Summer wheels (complete with new GR centre caps) and then re-programmed the car's TPMS via the OBD. First time on with the Godspeed BBK and they look great!
Next job will be to clean the removed wheels and send them off for powder coating. Colour tbc. 🤔

View attachment 34920
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Where did you get the center caps? Do they come in different colors and do they fit other wheel brands like OZ?
I'm having trouble finding caps that fit my OZ Leggera wheels, other than the original OZ caps.
 
Hope they strip back the paint Sonic otherwise your rims are quickly going to be 0.5 wider the rate you change your colour of wheels!
It would be the wheel strength I'd worry about. The heat treatment required to cure powder coat can weaken the wheels. Aluminium anneals at low temperatures. Doing it repeatedly would just exaggerate the problem.
 
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Where did you get the center caps?
See my post here. I made them up myself using various parts on AliExpress. My BOLA FLE wheels' centre caps measured 60mm, so that's what I went with on the 'generic' blank ones. Decals are 56mm and fitted perfectly onto the blank cap.
 
It would be the wheel strength I'd worry about. The heat treatment required to cure powder coat can weaken the wheels. Aluminium anneals at low temperatures. Doing it repeatedly would just exaggerate the problem.
There are options for lower temperature compounds nowadays that mitigate this issue. Any professional powder shop should be able to provide assurances if it's a concern. I don't track, I don't 'race' and at my annual mileage (circa 2k average) it's probably not likely to be a problem ... 🤞

Anyhoo, the sun was out so today I removed the 3D Kagu MAXpider winter floor trays, vacuumed the cabin and installed the black set of my Autostyle (customised logo) luxury car mats.

GR86 logo purists look away now. Opening this link may cause triggering!

Mats_001.webp
 
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I pumped up the tyres and took it for a 5m drive to make sure everything is free and clean the brake disc surfaces.

As I can't remember when I last started I thought I'd use the accelerator / clutch trick on starting to make sure the oil was pumped around a bit., - big mistake, after a few cranks the battery let me know I've not been using it enough....

Now on the Ctek.

Anglesey track day sticker removed as it transpires I should probably book a service!

Sticker will be installed on the other half's D2 Volvo when she’s not looking....
 
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There are options for lower temperature compounds nowadays that mitigate this issue. Any professional powder shop should be able to provide assurances if it's a concern. I don't track, I don't 'race' and at my annual mileage (circa 2k average) it's probably not likely to be a problem ... 🤞

Anyhoo, the sun was out so today I removed the 3D Kagu MAXpider winter floor trays, vacuumed the cabin and installed the black set of my Autostyle (customised logo) luxury car mats.

GR86 logo purists look away now. Opening this link may cause triggering!

You've nearly got as many GR logos as the hybrid auto "GR" Yaris that our health and safety advisor runs around in
 
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Yeah, I’ve seen a few Hybrids that have swapped the ‘GR Sport’ emblems for ‘GR’ ones - coz petrol heads aren’t gonna know the difference eh?! That said, my next door neighbour has put ‘M’ emblems all over the place on his debadged (2013) 220d. Real M drivers are probably thinking ‘why has that M car got such a tiny exhaust?’
 
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Expensive week: Had my 2nd set of Bridgestone Potenza Race fitted, and took my GR86 to its 2nd service paying approximately 560 GBP....

Now if only they can sweep the roads from all salt and sand from the winter here in Sweden!
 
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Thanks. Going to do a bit of reading. It seems they also do stiffer STI bushings for the rack, and paired with the longer bolts going all the way through the subframe, it apparently really tightens up the steering feels. Might look into that as a little project over the next few months....
Following on from this post, the new STI steering rack bushes and extended bolts arrived earlier this week, so I had a go at fitting them earlier. Unfortunately, mission was only 50% accomplished :/

Knowing pulling the bushes would be a pain, I also bought a cheap bush pulling set from eBay. Glad I did as without that, I would have had an even worse time. Started with the passenger side first, and the old bush came out fairly easily, with just a bit of binding in the final few millimeters. Probably because the OEM bushes have a lip at each end. Coming to get them back in would be a pain because of this.

All of the videos I watched about this showed people pulling the old bushes and then replacing them with aftermarket - Whiteline, Cusco, Superpro, etc. All of these are poly, but they are two part bushes - ie, you slide half the bush in from each side, then slip the central metal portion into it....easy. Me, being Mr Clever Cloggs, decided I'd go for the STI bushes for that "OEM+" effect. However, the STI bushes are the same design as the OEM ones - they are a single piece with a lip at each end.

No matter - I figured with enough lubricant and being pushed through, the lips would just compress and pop out the other side. So I set up the bushing tool again and started to wind them in.

Didn't work. Managed to get the bush all the way in, but it tore it up, with the lip that should end up sitting between the rack and the subframe getting ripped off. It was clearly not sitting right and I couldn't line up the mounting bolt. Decided to abort, so pulled the old bush out and replaced it with the original. Unfortunately, the same thing happened....the lip was torn up as it was pushed back into the rack. However, at least it was sitting square, meaning I could bolt the rack back up.

Not wanting the whole ordeal to be totally pointless, I did at least manage to get the longer rack bolts in. And I'm pleased to say, I'm pretty sure they have made a bit of a difference - there's a bit less "squidge" (technical term) just off centre as you initially turn the wheel or make quick, small inputs. When you see the new bolts compared the old ones, you'll see why; the OEM bolts go through the rack then only thread into the subframe maybe 20mm or so. The new bolts thread all the way through the entire subframe, and come with a spacer and nut to clamp it from the other side.

So, not a completely wasted endeavor, but I am going to have to do it again soonish. The damage to the bush I put back means that the lip which provided some rubber between the rack and the subframe is gone. I managed to torque up the bolt fully, and there's no noise, but I don't like that. So I am going to get hold of an aftermarket 2-part poly bush like the ones I mentioned, and replace both sides, and that should hopefully tighten the steering a little further.
 
Still need to get those bolts.
I took the car for a Sunday morning blast (first of the year) at the weekend. Pretty confident that it's not just a placebo, the steering does seem to feel a little more direct just off centre. Whiteline bushes are already in the post, hoping I'll have time to fit those this week and tighten it up a bit further.
 
Over the past few days, finally got it washed (after plenty of grim winter weather commuting), hit a mileage milestone and had it back at a dealer for the appropriate service. Funnily enough the parking space I had at work was occupied by a GRY once I got back from the dealership in the courtesy car #GRParkingOnly :cool:
Sounds like another GR86 (in Red) was serviced at the same place today too 👋

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