Instructions if anyone is wondering
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this is very, very interesting to me. l should just spend the money.
Instructions if anyone is wondering![]()
How much is it to install cam and springs?I have mine booked in with Litchfield in early October, will be having EZ cams, valve springs, HJS sports cat, lamspeed baffled sump kit fitted, DO88 IC is already fitted.
Hopefully around the 350-360hp mark according to them
That power sounds about right for your mods.Hi guys, I took my car to be tuned at Litchfields, my mods are:
I made 348 bhp and 280lb/ ft.
- Eventuri
- Resonated GPF Delete
- Miltek non resonated exhaust.
Is this power level normal for the mods that i have? Conscious that I don't have valve springs and i'm at 348 bhp. Interesting that my torque figures aren't that much higher than stock too.
View attachment 38152
torque peak is interesting, between 5-6krpm. Mine peaks at 4.2k but its not mapped car.Hi guys, I took my car to be tuned at Litchfields, my mods are:
I made 348 bhp and 280lb/ ft.
- Eventuri
- Resonated GPF Delete
- Miltek non resonated exhaust.
Is this power level normal for the mods that i have? Conscious that I don't have valve springs and i'm at 348 bhp. Interesting that my torque figures aren't that much higher than stock too.
View attachment 38152
EZ cams add zero power unfortunatelyUmmmm. Mine is similar but had an Litchfield intercooler, HKS 2” boost pipes and a weld speed manifold and turbo smart plumb back bov. Litchfield tune on the dyno. Ambient air temp was 6 degrees cooler.
353bhp and 316ft/lbs at 4200.
Mines going back in next week to check the data log and adjust if required. I had been struggling with low boost and inconsistent boost. I think the ecu may have been limiting it due to fuel quality. I changed the boost control solenoid and checked the vacuum system using a miti vac. Iain also said to reconnect the solenoid which controls the air box flap as when disconnected they have seen the ecu become inconsistent with boost control. Seems fine now. I will ask if they can try and target peak torque earlier with a few tweaks.
Now I don’t want to admit it but I do think their dyno is maybe a little nicer than some. Drive line losses are calculated at around 21.5% others use around 19%.
I also think the gpf delete may gain some flow up top but unless your car is restricted by the exhaust the butt dyno tells me they loose low end torque.
Maybe others can answer this, is the 3” exhaust too wide and causing a loss of torque when not on boost?
I am considering adding EZ cams with valve springs. I have spoke to Iain and valve springs are not required even at this power level for road use. For track it’s a must
Ummmm. Mine is similar but had an Litchfield intercooler, HKS 2” boost pipes and a weld speed manifold and turbo smart plumb back bov. Litchfield tune on the dyno. Ambient air temp was 6 degrees cooler.
353bhp and 316ft/lbs at 4200.
Mines going back in next week to check the data log and adjust if required. I had been struggling with low boost and inconsistent boost. I think the ecu may have been limiting it due to fuel quality. I changed the boost control solenoid and checked the vacuum system using a miti vac. Iain also said to reconnect the solenoid which controls the air box flap as when disconnected they have seen the ecu become inconsistent with boost control. Seems fine now. I will ask if they can try and target peak torque earlier with a few tweaks.
Now I don’t want to admit it but I do think their dyno is maybe a little nicer than some. Drive line losses are calculated at around 21.5% others use around 19%.
I also think the gpf delete may gain some flow up top but unless your car is restricted by the exhaust the butt dyno tells me they loose low end torque.
Maybe others can answer this, is the 3” exhaust too wide and causing a loss of torque when not on boost?
I am considering adding EZ cams with valve springs. I have spoke to Iain and valve springs are not required even at this power level for road use. For track it’s a must
It drops off because it drops boost. That's the main reason.EZ cams give more power and torque at the top end above 6k revs according to well known tuners I spoke with, which to me me is where the car seemed to drop off on the stock map
EZ cams add zero power unfortunately
Exactly how I would have wanted mine, flat torque curve and nice peaky top end. The EZ cams help high rpm breathing with more lift afaik.
noted that their baseline is quite highish, 307hp with stock car and mods. We got 280hp, but of course I have the GPF still on. but that's almost 30hp more..
so not sure if all dyno figures are compareable even though they're often talked as such (espec the numbers what each gives etc)
I’ve been running A cams with Artec turbo and Ecutek for the past 10,000 miles. No issuesIs it also still the case you need a standalone ECU for A cams?
You could do worse than watch @Phil1291's video on Yaris power stages. Lots of explanation of what mods will get what power, how, and why.Pardon my ignorance as I'm new to engine tuning and the following questions might seem "basic" and probably don't warrant opening a new thread (hence why I'm asking here):
In the future I'd like to tune my 2023 CP. I plan on maxing out the stock turbo with:
-Syvecs ECU
-Kelford cams (unsure which ones)
-Kelford springs
-Wagner IC
-HEL Oil cooler
-Sports cat
-GPF delete and an aftermarket exhaust
-Intake? (Most intakes out there seem snake oil to me)
-Realistically how many HP and NM could I squeeze with these mods? In real life conditions, assuming a honest Dyno at 25°C outside temps
-I enjoy the power curve that the stock car has (that is, little torque below ~3500RPM and then a surge in power). Are the Kelford EZ cams the right ones for me?
-How do I convey to my tuner that I want to "augment" the original power/torque curve? (Make it draw on the Dyno plot a similar shape as stock -but with higher numbers obviously-). Is it "mid-range" or "top end" what I'm looking for??