GR Yaris The EcuTek thread

I have mine booked in with Litchfield in early October, will be having EZ cams, valve springs, HJS sports cat, lamspeed baffled sump kit fitted, DO88 IC is already fitted.
Hopefully around the 350-360hp mark according to them
How much is it to install cam and springs?
 
Hi guys, I took my car to be tuned at Litchfields, my mods are:
  • Eventuri
  • Resonated GPF Delete
  • Miltek non resonated exhaust.
I made 348 bhp and 280lb/ ft.

Is this power level normal for the mods that i have? Conscious that I don't have valve springs and i'm at 348 bhp. Interesting that my torque figures aren't that much higher than stock too.

B0175107-9E92-4DB9-9A73-D6398DB39CD6_4_5005_c.webp
 
Hi guys, I took my car to be tuned at Litchfields, my mods are:
  • Eventuri
  • Resonated GPF Delete
  • Miltek non resonated exhaust.
I made 348 bhp and 280lb/ ft.

Is this power level normal for the mods that i have? Conscious that I don't have valve springs and i'm at 348 bhp. Interesting that my torque figures aren't that much higher than stock too.

View attachment 38152
That power sounds about right for your mods.

Valve springs protect the valve train in the event of over revs. If you don't over rev it at that power level it's not a concern at all.
 
Hi guys, I took my car to be tuned at Litchfields, my mods are:
  • Eventuri
  • Resonated GPF Delete
  • Miltek non resonated exhaust.
I made 348 bhp and 280lb/ ft.

Is this power level normal for the mods that i have? Conscious that I don't have valve springs and i'm at 348 bhp. Interesting that my torque figures aren't that much higher than stock too.

View attachment 38152
torque peak is interesting, between 5-6krpm. Mine peaks at 4.2k but its not mapped car.
 
Ummmm. Mine is similar but had an Litchfield intercooler, HKS 2” boost pipes and a weld speed manifold and turbo smart plumb back bov. Litchfield tune on the dyno. Ambient air temp was 6 degrees cooler.

353bhp and 316ft/lbs at 4200.

Mines going back in next week to check the data log and adjust if required. I had been struggling with low boost and inconsistent boost. I think the ecu may have been limiting it due to fuel quality. I changed the boost control solenoid and checked the vacuum system using a miti vac. Iain also said to reconnect the solenoid which controls the air box flap as when disconnected they have seen the ecu become inconsistent with boost control. Seems fine now. I will ask if they can try and target peak torque earlier with a few tweaks.

Now I don’t want to admit it but I do think their dyno is maybe a little nicer than some. Drive line losses are calculated at around 21.5% others use around 19%.

I also think the gpf delete may gain some flow up top but unless your car is restricted by the exhaust the butt dyno tells me they loose low end torque.

Maybe others can answer this, is the 3” exhaust too wide and causing a loss of torque when not on boost?

I am considering adding EZ cams with valve springs. I have spoke to Iain and valve springs are not required even at this power level for road use. For track it’s a must
 
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Ummmm. Mine is similar but had an Litchfield intercooler, HKS 2” boost pipes and a weld speed manifold and turbo smart plumb back bov. Litchfield tune on the dyno. Ambient air temp was 6 degrees cooler.

353bhp and 316ft/lbs at 4200.

Mines going back in next week to check the data log and adjust if required. I had been struggling with low boost and inconsistent boost. I think the ecu may have been limiting it due to fuel quality. I changed the boost control solenoid and checked the vacuum system using a miti vac. Iain also said to reconnect the solenoid which controls the air box flap as when disconnected they have seen the ecu become inconsistent with boost control. Seems fine now. I will ask if they can try and target peak torque earlier with a few tweaks.

Now I don’t want to admit it but I do think their dyno is maybe a little nicer than some. Drive line losses are calculated at around 21.5% others use around 19%.

I also think the gpf delete may gain some flow up top but unless your car is restricted by the exhaust the butt dyno tells me they loose low end torque.

Maybe others can answer this, is the 3” exhaust too wide and causing a loss of torque when not on boost?

I am considering adding EZ cams with valve springs. I have spoke to Iain and valve springs are not required even at this power level for road use. For track it’s a must
EZ cams add zero power unfortunately
 
EZ cams give more power and torque at the top end above 6k revs according to well known tuners I spoke with, which to me me is where the car seemed to drop off on the stock map
 
Ummmm. Mine is similar but had an Litchfield intercooler, HKS 2” boost pipes and a weld speed manifold and turbo smart plumb back bov. Litchfield tune on the dyno. Ambient air temp was 6 degrees cooler.

353bhp and 316ft/lbs at 4200.

Mines going back in next week to check the data log and adjust if required. I had been struggling with low boost and inconsistent boost. I think the ecu may have been limiting it due to fuel quality. I changed the boost control solenoid and checked the vacuum system using a miti vac. Iain also said to reconnect the solenoid which controls the air box flap as when disconnected they have seen the ecu become inconsistent with boost control. Seems fine now. I will ask if they can try and target peak torque earlier with a few tweaks.

Now I don’t want to admit it but I do think their dyno is maybe a little nicer than some. Drive line losses are calculated at around 21.5% others use around 19%.

I also think the gpf delete may gain some flow up top but unless your car is restricted by the exhaust the butt dyno tells me they loose low end torque.

Maybe others can answer this, is the 3” exhaust too wide and causing a loss of torque when not on boost?

I am considering adding EZ cams with valve springs. I have spoke to Iain and valve springs are not required even at this power level for road use. For track it’s a must
1000010277.webp


this is my result from Litchfield picked up yesterday,

Power affecting Mods are:
DO88 intercooler, with stock piping
HKS Spec L II hi power exhaust
HJS Sports Cat
Kelford EZ Cams and Valve springs
Forge turbo inlet
Piras Motorsport Intake
 
EZ cams give more power and torque at the top end above 6k revs according to well known tuners I spoke with, which to me me is where the car seemed to drop off on the stock map
It drops off because it drops boost. That's the main reason.
Stock tune, 21psi @5000rpm, by 7000rpm its around 14psi.
Temp affects it too.
 
EZ cams add zero power unfortunately

noted that their baseline is quite highish, 307hp with stock car and mods. We got 280hp, but of course I have the GPF still on. but that's almost 30hp more..
so not sure if all dyno figures are compareable even though they're often talked as such (espec the numbers what each gives etc)
 
noted that their baseline is quite highish, 307hp with stock car and mods. We got 280hp, but of course I have the GPF still on. but that's almost 30hp more..
so not sure if all dyno figures are compareable even though they're often talked as such (espec the numbers what each gives etc)

There is a later video from this guy about his car. When the put the cams on they were not getting the results they expected. It turns out he had a boost leak in the intercooler and that had overheated his turbo causing uncontrolled movement in the waste gate due to play in the shaft.

Others are showing about 25bhp and 20 nm torque
 
A bit of an update with remaps and ECU TEC. You can see my dyno graph above. This was before the HJS sports cat was fitted. If I am honest I questioned how much the HJS was doing. Much like the gpf delete you say “it’s so much better, it build more up top, maybe, possibly, I think” This is where the dyno is good because you can see what it actually done. Now I don’t think the HJS does a lot unless you remap the car to take advantage of it. I also think a dyno is a good tool but not always representative of what you feel on the road.

The above graph is impressive but I was not sure it was working for me. It felt track optimised in that it produced loads of power higher up the rpm range and I felt like I had to be on it to get the best from it. Not exactly compatible with public roads and speed limits (to a certain degree)

I did the usual stuff checking vacuum lines. Car produces 28 in/mg at idle for reference and wastegate is held fully closed at 11.5 and the pressure should hold. Also if you have a aftermarket air intake make sure you leave the air box solenoid valve connected (electrically) Litchfield have seen boost control issues and variable output with this disconnected. I also changed the boost control solenoid for good measure. It did help but I took it over to Litchfield for them to check over. Fortunately no hardware issues.

Discussed with them where I thought it could be improved and where I wanted to prioritise. My main feedback was it seemed to lack that in gear acceleration from 3000rpm 40mph in 3rd. It would be slow to build boost and hit 1.1 and not really much more. It would creep to 1.3 maybe but no more. At 4500 it was alive and completely different.

The technician took it out to try it and did some data logging. After that it went out for a road tune and it was away a good hour and a half making adjustments too it. It was handed back with a smirk and a “you should enjoy that”

I cannot believe it is the same car. Just driving out the car park you could feel it was different. It pulls so much harder much much earlier. I would conservatively say peak torque is 800 rpm earlier and it feels significantly more too. It boosts quicker and builds to 1.5-1.6 before tapering back at the top. I think the HJS is now able to deliver on its promises but I also believe it shows how flexible the ECU TEC is. Not all remaps are the same. Maybe before I had a fairly basic map with minor adjustment for my mods. Now I have a bit of a relationship with the tuner I think they have really customised it for my goals. I cannot understate how different it is. There must be a lot of cars out there with pretty average maps if this is what a good tuner can really do with ECU TEC.
 
Pardon my ignorance as I'm new to engine tuning and the following questions might seem "basic" and probably don't warrant opening a new thread (hence why I'm asking here):

In the future I'd like to tune my 2023 CP. I plan on maxing out the stock turbo with:
-Syvecs ECU
-Kelford cams (unsure which ones)
-Kelford springs
-Wagner IC
-HEL Oil cooler
-Sports cat
-GPF delete and an aftermarket exhaust
-Intake? (Most intakes out there seem snake oil to me)

-Realistically how many HP and NM could I squeeze with these mods? In real life conditions, assuming a honest Dyno at 25°C outside temps

-I enjoy the power curve that the stock car has (that is, little torque below ~3500RPM and then a surge in power). Are the Kelford EZ cams the right ones for me?

-How do I convey to my tuner that I want to "augment" the original power/torque curve? (Make it draw on the Dyno plot a similar shape as stock -but with higher numbers obviously-). Is it "mid-range" or "top end" what I'm looking for??
 
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Pardon my ignorance as I'm new to engine tuning and the following questions might seem "basic" and probably don't warrant opening a new thread (hence why I'm asking here):

In the future I'd like to tune my 2023 CP. I plan on maxing out the stock turbo with:
-Syvecs ECU
-Kelford cams (unsure which ones)
-Kelford springs
-Wagner IC
-HEL Oil cooler
-Sports cat
-GPF delete and an aftermarket exhaust
-Intake? (Most intakes out there seem snake oil to me)

-Realistically how many HP and NM could I squeeze with these mods? In real life conditions, assuming a honest Dyno at 25°C outside temps

-I enjoy the power curve that the stock car has (that is, little torque below ~3500RPM and then a surge in power). Are the Kelford EZ cams the right ones for me?

-How do I convey to my tuner that I want to "augment" the original power/torque curve? (Make it draw on the Dyno plot a similar shape as stock -but with higher numbers obviously-). Is it "mid-range" or "top end" what I'm looking for??
You could do worse than watch @Phil1291's video on Yaris power stages. Lots of explanation of what mods will get what power, how, and why.



And as for getting the curves/driving experience you want, that up to the mapper you use. Explain it to them and they'll work to deliver that within the constraints of the system. A good mapper will be able to tailor the feel quite a lot.
 
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