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Hmm the site won't let me attach the .jib as it is not an allowed file type. Happy to share - if anyone wants the file just message meI believe with the C7 software, you can save the setup as a file and upload it for others to try, as well as just applying it to the amp.
Just the speakers? I can’t be bothered to try and fit the amp but the speakers look like a doddle and I might be able to get the capex approved by SWMBO for the speaker kitJust installed my focals. they sound amazing!
Many thanks Dal3D for the instructions. It made the install so easy. And inspired much needed confidence.
So far just the speakers (and sound deadening).Just the speakers? I can’t be bothered to try and fit the amp but the speakers look like a doddle and I might be able to get the capex approved by SWMBO for the speaker kit![]()
You could try putting in a .zip file although I don't know if the site allows that either, might only allow images.Hmm the site won't let me attach the .jib as it is not an allowed file type. Happy to share - if anyone wants the file just message me![]()
If you find out how to get that bolt back, let me know so I can get the 10mm I lost too. I fear it will be head unit completely out then somehow most of the airconOk, installed the Puzu amp yesterday. Straightforward apart from dropping one of the HU bolts down the back. So if anyone has any retrieval tips I'm all ears!
Took some measurements and knocked up an initial set of filters. The attached screenshots show the smoothed response at the drivers head position and my C7 settings, targeting a Harman curve from 20 - 20kHz. Interestingly the C7 PEQ settings won't accept arbitrary values - they self adjust to the nearest 'allowed' values so I couldn't quite replicate exactly the filters from REW but close enough.
Already sounding great to these ears!
View attachment 21340
Not at all. Because the listening position is off centre in the driving seat, the path from speaker to ear are different left and right, as are all the reflections that contribute to what you hear. You can see the difference on the red ( left ) and green ( right ) response curves. So I'm equalising each side differently to get what I hear as close as possible to the same left and rightYou could try putting in a .zip file although I don't know if the site allows that either, might only allow images.
Do you mind me asking...you appear to have set up different curves for left and right speakers. Shouldn't they be the same, if they are the same speaker setup? I gather you've used a time alignment microphone, but not set any time delays...is that because you're setting the curves differently?
I am an audiothicko.
But isn't that what the time delay setting is for? Or is your method just more accurate/reliable?Not at all. Because the listening position is off centre in the driving seat, the path from speaker to ear are different left and right, as are all the reflections that contribute to what you hear. You can see the difference on the red ( left ) and green ( right ) response curves. So I'm equalising each side differently to get what I hear as close as possible to the same left and right
The time delay settings are to get the sound from each speaker, which are all at different distances, arriving at your ears at the same time. The small time delays at play here will have a small effect on the frequency response - due to the different effects of phase cancellation and comb filtering at different frequencies - but mainly the time delay helps with sharpening the stereo image, transients and overall 'clarity'. I haven't bothered trying to time align -yet. I may give it a go later when the urge to nerd returnsBut isn't that what the time delay setting is for? Or is your method just more accurate/reliable?
On the previous car I had a Pioneer head unit for a while which had an automatic TA setup with a compatible microphone. Did seem to make an improvement. So I'm keen to see if I can replicate that hear even with out a microphone.
Thank you. Great timing. Just got my Puzu working.Hi all
Ok I've had a play around with time delays, remeasured and created a new set of filters which allow for the delays. I've also applied EQ to the rear speakers and adjusted the gain on these.
I've targeted the Harman curve, so this gives a pretty balanced tonality overall with a bit of a boost in the low end. If you're a real basshead, you might prefer a bit more in the bottom.
Puzu file, screenshots and the REW measurements, for those interested, all in the zip at the link attached. Enjoy
Car2.zip
PS The password is the model name of our favourite motor vehicle
Thanks. I've got the last setup you gave me applied currently but hadn't set the time delays yet. I'll try this one now.Hi all
Ok I've had a play around with time delays, remeasured and created a new set of filters which allow for the delays. I've also applied EQ to the rear speakers and adjusted the gain on these.
I've targeted the Harman curve, so this gives a pretty balanced tonality overall with a bit of a boost in the low end. If you're a real basshead, you might prefer a bit more in the bottom.
Puzu file, screenshots and the REW measurements, for those interested, all in the zip at the link attached. Enjoy
Car2.zip
PS The password is the model name of our favourite motor vehicle
I aim to install the puzu tomorrow so this is perfect timing.Hi all
Ok I've had a play around with time delays, remeasured and created a new set of filters which allow for the delays. I've also applied EQ to the rear speakers and adjusted the gain on these.
I've targeted the Harman curve, so this gives a pretty balanced tonality overall with a bit of a boost in the low end. If you're a real basshead, you might prefer a bit more in the bottom.
Puzu file, screenshots and the REW measurements, for those interested, all in the zip at the link attached. Enjoy
Car2.zip
PS The password is the model name of our favourite motor vehicle
You shouldn't need to unplug everything, but I guess there's a wire which is snagged and preventing you pulling it forward further. Ideally, you only need to be able to pull it out enough that you can tilt the whole thing down, and that should give you access to the back.Hi Guys,
I've got this far, but the headunit won't pull out any farther.
Is it just a case of getting my hands behind there and unplugging everything?
TIA, OldMan
View attachment 21742
That's what I figured .You shouldn't need to unplug everything, but I guess there's a wire which is snagged and preventing you pulling it forward further. Ideally, you only need to be able to pull it out enough that you can tilt the whole thing down, and that should give you access to the back.
The connectors you need are at the bottom right of the unit (as you look at it). There's also some connectors on the top right, it might make it easier if you disconnect those just so you can get access to the ones you need.