Yes new plugs so I don’t have to touch the OEM wiring loom and can put back to standard if needed.Interested. Do you mean you will have new plugs to connect to the existing ones (those would be useful), or just insert pins individually into the current connector?
@86GR did you do this, and could you share what plugs/where you got them? might be something I have a go at at some point.Yes new plugs so I don’t have to touch the OEM wiring loom and can put back to standard if needed.
I ordered them from Ali-express, thought they would take ages to arrive but came in around 2 weeks.@86GR did you do this, and could you share what plugs/where you got them? might be something I have a go at at some point.

Good find. They certainly look like the right one.Might be better if you can wait until the weekend then I can let you know the connectors definitely are the correct ones.
No, details below….So did you just identify the ground wire and intercept that with your Volume Box (TM)?
Excellent. I'm not going to bother with resistors, I'd just like to wire in a simple on/off switch. Thanks for the details! Little project to embark onNo, details below….
There are 8 wires on the 16 pin connector that you have to pass from the female to male connector - you can cut the other 8 off. The wires are
12V
5V
CAN_H
CAN_L
2x Ground
Speaker +
Speaker -
The yellow and green wires are for the speaker. You need to use one of these (doesn’t matter which) to go the the switch box which you wire to the switch to either close the circuit (asc on), open the circuit (asc off) or switch in a 5 ohm resistor (asc lower volume)
I used 2x 5W 10 ohm resistors in parallel to give a resistance of 5 Ohms and a power handling of 10W, probably way more than needed, but you definitely shouldn’t use standard 1/8 watt ones.
The only negative about the round rocker switches is they need a big drill hole - the one I had needed 21mm, I only had 19 and 22mm drill bits so was a bit tricky. The small toggle ones are usually around 6mm and easier to mountI just ordered those connectors from AliExpress and also a few little round rocker switches. I'm toying with the idea of drilling a hole in the side of the glovebox to mount the switch...or, an even nicer solution would be to install the switch somewhere like inside the armrest or in the little panel in front of the gearknob. However, if it's going to be on display, it would be better to have something which matches the rest of the switchgear in the cabin.
For now though I'm going to be able to just add the switch into the loom so I can turn it on and off somewhat easily.
True, but they've also got that 'WW2 bomber cockpit' aesthetic which would look a bit out of place in a modern carThe only negative about the round rocker switches is they need a big drill hole - the one I had needed 21mm, I only had 19 and 22mm drill bits so was a bit tricky. The small toggle ones are usually around 6mm and easier to mount
Just mount it in a little box on a long lead like I did, easy to switch when driving then you can put it back in the glove box out of siteTrue, but they've also got that 'WW2 bomber cockpit' aesthetic which would look a bit out of place in a modern car
Having slept on it, I've abandoned the idea of actually mounting the switch for now anyway. Initially I want to just be able to switch it on and off at will with relative ease. But long term (after I have a new exhaust fitted), I think it's probably going to be off permanently.
This was a massive help, thank you!I just had another go and managed to disconnect it.
If you open the glove box there is a small gap at the top, you can get your fingers through and with a screwdriver reach the tab on the connector to push it in, while at the same time pulling down from the other side. A bit fiddly but got it free in less than a minute.
Managed to get my soldering iron out this afternoon. Can confirm the connectors are the correct ones. Very interesting to switch the asc on and off while driving and hear what is real and what is fake. I also had a switch position for a volume reduced asc using some series resistors to attenuate the signal. I started at 10 ohms, but that was barely audible, so put another 10 ohms in parallel (5 ohms) and that sounded pretty good - it took away some of the harsh boominess at higher revs and didn’t sound quite so fake. I might even try another in parallel (3.3 ohms).
I can keep the little box in the glove compartment and have it on the passenger seat for switching the sound on/off. I might just fit the switch to the the small panel between the gear stick and the AC controls providing they are fairly cheap to buy in case I screw it up or want to put it back to stock.
Here are some pics…
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