GR86 White GR86 from Singapore

[Jianlun]

Bought the official toyota snow mats. Love how the sides Re higher so stones dun get caught between (and thus under) the mat and carpet.

But they are reeeaalllyy heavy rubber (3mm thick, probably twice the weight). So only putting the driver side ones in. Photo shown of the driver side one.

Part number:
08210-18160-c0 (for manual, mine. As pictured)

08210-18150-c0 (for auto)

I bought from:

OEM TOYOTA 0821018160C0 GR ALL WEATHER FLOOR MATS BLACK 08210-18160-C0

Brand TOYOTA Product Name GR ALL WEATHER FLOOR MATS BLACK Product Number 08210-18160-C0 Product Description Fits: TOYOTA GR86 (Manual Transmission) Chassis: ZN8 Engines: FA24 Notes Images are for illustration purpose only. Actual product may vary.

www.blackhawkjapan.com

OEM TOYOTA 0821018150C0 GR ALL WEATHER FLOOR MATS BLACK 08210-18150-C0

Brand TOYOTA Product Name GR ALL WEATHER FLOOR MATS BLACK Product Number 08210-18150-C0 Product Description Fits: TOYOTA GR86 (Automatic Transmission) Chassis: ZN8 Engines: FA24 Notes Images are for illustration purpose only. Actual product may vary.

www.blackhawkjapan.com

 

[Jianlun]

So.... I couldn't help myself hahaha. Did a simulation of the stock HKS oil cooler duct. Lots of BL separation as expected from the sudden turn. See 1st image. Flow is from top to bottom of image. Boundary conditions ate pressure at inlet and pressure at outlet. Solving for average air velocity through the inlet (and thus mass flow, higher better for same pressure boundary conditions).

So I added a deflector and iterated some positions of the deflector, and settled with it ~40mm from the "inside" wall. Simulation says 49/37 = 30% more flow through.

So I took a drone propeller that I had lying around and mounted it in the duct. Wanted the nice airfoil thickness (instead of a flat/curved/piecewise-bent plate) to minimise the BL separation at the leeward (ie low pressure side), but didn't bother simulating it again hahah.

 

[GRistopher]

Did you consider mounting the prop to a RC servo and varying the angle with the throttle position?

Only joking. Clever idea though. It looks like there's a decent increase on the CFD sim. now I'm curious as to whether the gains are noticable on a dyno run.

 

[skaben]

i have nothing to add here but great work modifying and making your car your own!

 

[Jianlun]

Finally got around to install the HKS Oil Cooler Kit.

I swapped out the HKS sandwich plate for an Improved Racing sandwich with 212degF (100degC) thermostat. https://www.improvedracing.com/oil-...h-thermostat-for-oil-coolers-low-profile.html

And I rotated the Improved Racing 90deg outlet upside down so the fittings point downwards rather than upwards around the filter. Had to cut/grind away a small part of the stock Oil Heater (haha) donut.

Lastly I grafted on a BMW 1 series fender liner Vent as the exit of the oil cooler.

 

[ritch]

Finally got around to install the HKS Oil Cooler Kit.

I swapped out the HKS sandwich plate for an Improved Racing sandwich with 212degF (100degC) thermostat. https://www.improvedracing.com/oil-...h-thermostat-for-oil-coolers-low-profile.html

And I rotated the Improved Racing 90deg outlet upside down so the fittings point downwards rather than upwards around the filter. Had to cut/grind away a small part of the stock Oil Heater (haha) donut.

Lastly I grafted on a BMW 1 series fender liner Vent as the exit of the oil cooler.

Looks like shorts fluid paths and the airflow optimisations are interesting, you are track ready now!

 

[Jianlun]

I just did about 1.5hr/26 laps incl hot/cold/warm laps in Sepang International Circuit (ex F1 Circuit in Malaysia, 5.5km long).

Oil temps stayed below 105degC (oops overdid that cooling hahahha) on a tropical 30degC ambient night. Water temps were ard 100degC. Air in tyres around 55degC front, 48degC rear according to my aftermarket valve cap style TPMS. At the end of the session, finished a full tank of fuel (140km therabouts) hahah.

But rear diff felt tight and juddering (like a welded diff) when turning out of the pits back to hotel. And fuel consumption was 2 km/L poorer on highway (which I attributed to gunk in the rear diff causing massive drag).

Diff Oil (Motul 300 75w90) looked like the photo below hahaha. probably clocked 1000km only, of which 140km was on track. Smelled like durian (not kidding). Magnetic drain plug was coated 2 to 3mm thick all around with gunk.

 

[ritch]

I just did about 1.5hr/26 laps incl hot/cold/warm laps in Sepang International Circuit (ex F1 Circuit in Malaysia, 5.5km long).

Oil temps stayed below 105degC (oops overdid that cooling hahahha) on a tropical 30degC ambient night. Water temps were ard 100degC. Air in tyres around 55degC front, 48degC rear according to my aftermarket valve cap style TPMS. At the end of the session, finished a full tank of fuel (140km therabouts) hahah.

But rear diff felt tight and juddering (like a welded diff) when turning out of the pits back to hotel. And fuel consumption was 2 km/L poorer on highway (which I attributed to gunk in the rear diff causing massive drag).

Diff Oil (Motul 300 75w90) looked like the photo below hahaha. probably clocked 1000km only, of which 140km was on track. Smelled like durian (not kidding). Magnetic drain plug was coated 2 to 3mm thick all around with gunk.

Is this temperature related, is this why the cup cars run increased capacity diff covers?

 

[Jianlun]

I would think the primary root cause it that it had overheated. Plus I had a 4.56 final drive that probably made the diff run ar a higher temp already (more sliding/rubbing/churning) compared to stock. But no way to know for sure cos i didnt have any temp sensor there. And cannot discount the fact that maybe the shimming/preload of the 4.56 final drive during installation wasn't super spot on. So there was increase wear.

Anyway after the fluid change, FC seemed to go back to normal. No strange sounds from the rear. No increased backlash/slop.

On the plus side, i "have no choice" but to buy a Greddy diff cover or a Harrop diff cover. Can't decide between the two. The former has 1.9L of capacity while the latter has more extensive heat sinks (and only 1.5L capacity, up from stock of 1.1L).

 

[ritch]

I would think the primary root cause it that it had overheated. Plus I had a 4.56 final drive that probably made the diff run ar a higher temp already (more sliding/rubbing/churning) compared to stock. But no way to know for sure cos i didnt have any temp sensor there. And cannot discount the fact that maybe the shimming/preload of the 4.56 final drive during installation wasn't super spot on. So there was increase wear.

Anyway after the fluid change, FC seemed to go back to normal. No strange sounds from the rear. No increased backlash/slop.

On the plus side, i "have no choice" but to buy a Greddy diff cover or a Harrop diff cover. Can't decide between the two. The former has 1.9L of capacity while the latter has more extensive heat sinks (and only 1.5L capacity, up from stock of 1.1L).

Revolution do one that is 1.6L that has an enlarged centre baffle to reduce starvation at higher g forces that may be worth considering.

 

[Jianlun]

I was changing oils today after the track session last week. And got a pleasant surprise! My airbox resonator delete plug was blown off again despite it being taped down! This can only mean one thing: Positive Pressure pre-filter!

In other news, I working on making an Aluminium 3D printed sandwich plate, with the goals of
1. minimum oil pressure loss, for bypass and unbypass flows.
2. Deleting the stock Oil warmer (which was tested by the USA guys to contribute to 10psi loss at high rpm), and routing the water lines thru the new sandwich plate to heat it up. And have "inward facing heat sinks" within the sandwich plate to heat the bypassed oil up faster. No doubt less efficient that the stock Oil warmer (with the small brazed channels) but the water lines are there and I didn't want to plug them up anyway hahaha.
3. Having the bulkhead AN10 male fittings one on top of the other, so that i can use straight female hose ends (and not the pressure lossy elbows now), to better fit the tight constraints that we will love to hate.
4. Incorporating the 100degC thermostat from Improved Racing so bypass (lower pressure loss!) happens more often. The recent track experience show Oil temps at 105degC max anyway.

Anyone interested do hit me up! I sourcing and finalising the 3D printing vendors now.

 

[Jianlun]

Finally got around to install my oil catch tank that had been lying around since Sept last year hahahah.

Yes I CFD it with goal of minimum pressure loss and decent capture of oil. The ultimate would be buying a Provent but I know myself too well to believe I will bother changing the Provent filter regularly since it's out of sight out of mind.

By the way the CFD results are
100% removal effectiveness for oil particles of 8 micron diameter
96.5% for 4 micron diameter
55.5% for 1 micron diameter (1 micron and below are traditionally removed via physical filtration, not the current centrifugal method anyway)

At least this is fairly fire and forget. With the clear bowl (from the lubricator of a 2000 series pneumatic FRL) allowing some form of monitoring of the health of the engine (and hopefully I remember to empty every oil change).

Reused the current stock PCV to Manifold hose (labelled A) and bought another identical one (also labelled A). The former goes to a male/male hose barb joiner (5min work on a lathe) and to a random 16mmID silicone hose to the oil catch tank. The latter is the return from the oil catch tank to the Manifold again via a 16mmID hose and male/male hose barb joiner.

Do I feel anything different? No. And I dun expect to nor want to hahaha.

 

[Conscript]

I have a very interesting (slightly irritating) finding. The top inserts (for diff front mount, ie see pic below) of the whiteline KDT925 (https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KDT925) does NOT fit my stock GR86 bushing. Somehow the OD of the stock bushing is smaller than the ID of the concave side of the top whiteline inserts. iirc these top inserts supposed to be fitting tightly to the stock bushings and at times irritating to install cos they "pop out" while raising the diff and tightening up the bolts. Instead they are really loose with these gr86 stock bushings.

The bottom inserts and the diff rear bushing inserts all work perfectly.

But i guess the good thing is, with all the inserts (sans the aforementioned front mount top insert) mounted, there is ZERO NVH increase! And (maybe placebo but whatever) car feels more responsive esp with hard tip in of gas pedal in2nd and 3rd gear).

@Jianlun - how easy is the KDT925 kit to install on a driveway?

I was considering getting them for my GT86. I remember reading that fitting the front mounts increased NVH, so I only ever intended to buy and install the rear ones anyway (where it mounts to the subframe), so knowing that the front mounts for the same kit don't fit the GR doesn't bother me. But I never actually got around to buying the kit before selling the car.

Now I have the GR, I want to try it. I've already fitted the STI transmission mount which has tightened up the shifter, I gather the diff inserts help + reduce driveline slop a bit, and are fairly cheap - but not sure how to install.

 

[Jianlun]

Congrats on your car! The 925 is really easy to install. Put the car on jack stands, and a jack under the diff, and it's say 10min for the rears and 10min for the Fronts and you are done.

Watch this

Done on the gt86 but basically identical procedures.

 

[Conscript]

Congrats on your car! The 925 is really easy to install. Put the car on jack stands, and a jack under the diff, and it's say 10min for the rears and 10min for the Fronts and you are done.

Watch this

Done on the gt86 but basically identical procedures.

Nice. Picking up a set from Fensport later today so I can fit them next week.

 

[ZN8]

Nice. Picking up a set from Fensport later today so I can fit them next week.

I'm going to go the same route as you, I think there are some positive gains to be had. I have the STI gearbox mount in shed just need to pickup a set of these inserts.

 

[Conscript]

I'm going to go the same route as you, I think there are some positive gains to be had. I have the STI gearbox mount in shed just need to pickup a set of these inserts.

Yeah I never got around to fitting the diff inserts on the old car, but I know they were very well regarded. I'm hoping it might help smooth out the jerky acceleration a bit too...I have a suspicion that a lot of that is down to play in the driveline.

 

[Jianlun]

Quality of life mod. Added a replacement transparent cover for the light sensor for the auto headlights. Stock is fairly opaque. Hopefully it makes it more sensitive and less fickle minded during dusk on whether to turn on or off.
Look for 18mm ones for toyota models 2015 and up.

TAJIAN Car Automatic Headlight Sensor Cover Head Light Sensor Cap Photosensitive Trims For Toyota Lexus Series Camry RAV4 Sienna - AliExpress 34

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

a.aliexpress.com

P.s. the handphone SIM card removal poker works wonders to lever the stock cap out.

Edit: yes can Techstream to reduce sensitivity etc but I am an IT idiot and dun feel like fighting windows and drivers and whatnot hahah

 

[Jianlun]

I just did about 1.5hr/26 laps incl hot/cold/warm laps in Sepang International Circuit (ex F1 Circuit in Malaysia, 5.5km long).

Oil temps stayed below 105degC (oops overdid that cooling hahahha) on a tropical 30degC ambient night. Water temps were ard 100degC. Air in tyres around 55degC front, 48degC rear according to my aftermarket valve cap style TPMS. At the end of the session, finished a full tank of fuel (140km therabouts) hahah.

But rear diff felt tight and juddering (like a welded diff) when turning out of the pits back to hotel. And fuel consumption was 2 km/L poorer on highway (which I attributed to gunk in the rear diff causing massive drag).

Diff Oil (Motul 300 75w90) looked like the photo below hahaha. probably clocked 1000km only, of which 140km was on track. Smelled like durian (not kidding). Magnetic drain plug was coated 2 to 3mm thick all around with gunk.

My Aluminum 3D printed strap on heat sink for the diff is here! CFD says 340w of heat rejection at 110kph and 25w at zero speed/pure natural convection. I did avout 10p iterations hahahah.

Looks so nice I dun feel like strapping it on hahahah.

 

[KobayashiMaru86]

Congrats on your car! The 925 is really easy to install. Put the car on jack stands, and a jack under the diff, and it's say 10min for the rears and 10min for the Fronts and you are done.

Watch this

Done on the gt86 but basically identical procedures.

Need to watch when I go home. I found the left one I couldn't get the tool in properly to undo them as it fouled on the exhaust. Will try again tonight as I've bought shorter 1/2 inch impact sockets.