GR86 White GR86 from Singapore
- Thread starter Jianlun
- Start date
Hadn't been driving the car for months.
Finally got around to adding my modified Greddy Intake Snorkel. i got inspired by the Tanabe deflector so i modified by Greddy intake snorkel to have a big cut out to deflect the air upwards behind the bumper beam, to hopefullu hit those parts of the radiator that are somewhat "shrouded" by the bumper beam.
Does it work? Who knows hahaha. Would be impossible for me to reliably test the theory/mod hahah.
Finally got around to adding my modified Greddy Intake Snorkel. i got inspired by the Tanabe deflector so i modified by Greddy intake snorkel to have a big cut out to deflect the air upwards behind the bumper beam, to hopefullu hit those parts of the radiator that are somewhat "shrouded" by the bumper beam.
Does it work? Who knows hahaha. Would be impossible for me to reliably test the theory/mod hahah.
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Added a wideband bung for the Speedhut AFR gauge finally. On the overpipe. And cut trimmed the stock heatshield to fit.
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Car as it stands today. The look of rear black RPF1 and front silver TC105n are growing on me.
Edit: added a few more photos.
Edit: added a few more photos.
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Thanks for your kind words!
Those canards are from Verus. Was convinced from their CFD results with having large low pressure areas behind the canards, and thus helping with the extraction of air from the vents in the wheel wells. They are also one of the more substantial canards and with a bit of an "end plate" at the edges.
Attached their marketing material. Yes there are lots of unknowns and the colour scale could be artificially stretched but hey its marketing and it worked on me hahaha!
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On the part about extraction from the wheel wells, Toyobaru engineered a very elaborate box which (thru Bernoulli Principle) draws air from the engine compartment.
Below are some images from Subaru marketing material back in 2022. I also attached some photos that i took of that elaborate box while the bumper was out a few days ago.
Surprising that Toyobaru didnt market this a lot more. It is ultimately cost to them, cost that is hidden behind the bumper that few appreciate. Unless its absolutely necessary? Tracing the path of air into that elaborate box from the engine bay, the air seems to squeeze past things like the headlight unit (maybe to cool it down?) but generally doesnt have a straight shot (especially the left fender where the wiper washer reservior is, which i was very tempted to remove hahhaah).
So since its worth doing, its worth overdoing. Thus the Verus canards which create even lower pressure at the exit area which promotes faster air flow thru the box and thus stronger Bernoulli effect and thus more extraction from the engine bay. I am obsessed with engine bay hot air extraction (thus my bonnet louvers), cos the better air can get out, the more air can get into the radiator. And i spent 1hr sealing up with foam tape all the areas infront of the radiator where air may leak past. Hahaha.
Below are some images from Subaru marketing material back in 2022. I also attached some photos that i took of that elaborate box while the bumper was out a few days ago.
Surprising that Toyobaru didnt market this a lot more. It is ultimately cost to them, cost that is hidden behind the bumper that few appreciate. Unless its absolutely necessary? Tracing the path of air into that elaborate box from the engine bay, the air seems to squeeze past things like the headlight unit (maybe to cool it down?) but generally doesnt have a straight shot (especially the left fender where the wiper washer reservior is, which i was very tempted to remove hahhaah).
So since its worth doing, its worth overdoing. Thus the Verus canards which create even lower pressure at the exit area which promotes faster air flow thru the box and thus stronger Bernoulli effect and thus more extraction from the engine bay. I am obsessed with engine bay hot air extraction (thus my bonnet louvers), cos the better air can get out, the more air can get into the radiator. And i spent 1hr sealing up with foam tape all the areas infront of the radiator where air may leak past. Hahaha.
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It looks a lot like how Porsche work the aero on the gt cars, only taken further with vented wings.
I saw Kevin Vo on YouTube fitting more open rear arch ducts that would increase this effect as well I would guess?
I seen another product that claims to increase downforce and cool the engine bay from underneath, how effective it is without any data is debatable.
Thought about that but a bit hesitant to get that cos I guess there should still be some air going thru in between the headers and undertray? Else toyobaru in their infinite wisdom would have created some exit ducts there (since they seem an anal bunch with air)? And instead they added a NACA inlet (attached photo of my stock undertray) on the metal undertray.
Even more confusing is the furry panel aft of the metal undertray, which is angled for air inlet also. As if they need to cool the carbon propshaft that some of us may want to add....
Their marketing image from 2022 provided no clues, also attached.
Even more confusing is the furry panel aft of the metal undertray, which is angled for air inlet also. As if they need to cool the carbon propshaft that some of us may want to add....
Their marketing image from 2022 provided no clues, also attached.
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Figured i should update the progress for this. Its basically done. Some close ups attached.
Also added a deflector on the engine block to deflect the air from the rad fan upwards right to the hole in the bonnet. And yes when the fan on, it does get breeze at the duct when bonnet is closed!
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Added some Thermax stickers cos #racecar hahahaha
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Did some "lightening" of the engine. Caveat that the covers (A and E) are probably need to protect the injectors and fuel lines from leaking/exploding during frontal crash so do it at your own risk.
So, in order.
Item A: 925g
Item B: 212g
Item C: 26g hahaha
Item D: 84g hahaha
Item E: now this is complicated. Its 1485g, but i cut a part out and put back 372g (more on that later. Total 2360g saved (and probably a whole lot more dangerous).
Now on E.... there is a huge about of noise attenuation foam underneath the cover. And thats right on top of the DI injector, i guess to make sure the engine doesnt sound like a truck. So i chickened out and cut out (reference photo "new E") a portion and put that back. The bare minimum to cover the DI injector and keep the loose foam pieces around the DI pump from flying away.
So, in order.
Item A: 925g
Item B: 212g
Item C: 26g hahaha
Item D: 84g hahaha
Item E: now this is complicated. Its 1485g, but i cut a part out and put back 372g (more on that later. Total 2360g saved (and probably a whole lot more dangerous).
Now on E.... there is a huge about of noise attenuation foam underneath the cover. And thats right on top of the DI injector, i guess to make sure the engine doesnt sound like a truck. So i chickened out and cut out (reference photo "new E") a portion and put that back. The bare minimum to cover the DI injector and keep the loose foam pieces around the DI pump from flying away.
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Next thing on the list is making a new air box to house the K&N. Using back the same K&N piping and filter. But i dun like the current box from the typhoon kit due to:
1. Its a heavy af mild steel box. I didnt even bother weighing it (i will after i change it out with my design eventually). I gonna make mine out of aluminum with at least the rear face made out of 0.5mm carbon fiber panel. So its not only lighter but hopefully it becomes a nice speaker (induction roar!).
2. The top of the box doesnt seal well with the existing bonnet acoustic mat. Some parts have 5 to 10mm gap between the supplied rubber edging strip and the acoustic mat. I have a somewhat "ram air" Greddy intake duct (which I modified... see posts above hahaha) which would probably still give a little positive pressure. Dun want the engine bay to get that positive pressure due to the leaks from the airbox and negate all the hard work done on the bonnet louvers in evacuating the engine bay pressure. So will have a cover over the top.
3. Wanted an air box with smaller internal volume, so air exchange thru the box stays high ie air doesnt hang around too long within the air box and get a chance to heat up.
4. Wanted to create more space between the back of the air box and the oil cooler donut/oil filter, so that i have space to run a sandwich plate and external oil cooler eventually.
Why do i like this K&N kit? Because:
1. i am an induction roar addict (thats the only thing going for an NA engine hahaha). This kit is known to be one of the loudest woohoo!
2. Stratified Auto dynoed it and it didnt lose any power and they mentioned the AFRs (and thus MAF calibration) stayed near stock.
3. It runs a bigger filter element than the MST, HKS and AFE kits. So longer intervals between cleaning hahahaha.
1. Its a heavy af mild steel box. I didnt even bother weighing it (i will after i change it out with my design eventually). I gonna make mine out of aluminum with at least the rear face made out of 0.5mm carbon fiber panel. So its not only lighter but hopefully it becomes a nice speaker (induction roar!).
2. The top of the box doesnt seal well with the existing bonnet acoustic mat. Some parts have 5 to 10mm gap between the supplied rubber edging strip and the acoustic mat. I have a somewhat "ram air" Greddy intake duct (which I modified... see posts above hahaha) which would probably still give a little positive pressure. Dun want the engine bay to get that positive pressure due to the leaks from the airbox and negate all the hard work done on the bonnet louvers in evacuating the engine bay pressure. So will have a cover over the top.
3. Wanted an air box with smaller internal volume, so air exchange thru the box stays high ie air doesnt hang around too long within the air box and get a chance to heat up.
4. Wanted to create more space between the back of the air box and the oil cooler donut/oil filter, so that i have space to run a sandwich plate and external oil cooler eventually.
Why do i like this K&N kit? Because:
1. i am an induction roar addict (thats the only thing going for an NA engine hahaha). This kit is known to be one of the loudest woohoo!
2. Stratified Auto dynoed it and it didnt lose any power and they mentioned the AFRs (and thus MAF calibration) stayed near stock.
3. It runs a bigger filter element than the MST, HKS and AFE kits. So longer intervals between cleaning hahahaha.
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Nice, I removed A and E off my old car as it was a dead easy way to shed 2kg off the front end. I didn't notice any additional noise from the injectors. It didn't have that loose bit of foam though, that's new, looks as if it covers the HPFP, which was noisy on the old car.
Do you get much induction noise from the K&N kit? Or is it still quiet?
Do you get much induction noise from the K&N kit? Or is it still quiet?
The induction noise is very very loud and "emotive"!
But it does show that the stock DBW throttle mapping is too aggressive. Cos the it basically is quiet from 0 to say 20% throttle then suddenly all hell breaks loose. And the sound and pitch maintains from 20% all the way to 100% throttle. No modulation whatsoever.
I have an Ignis Sport with the hot air induction short ram intake basically by the firewall and good old cable throttle and i could modulate the sound all the way till 80% throttle.
12 wonderful years with it.
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