GR86 White GR86 from Singapore

[Jianlun]

My Aluminum 3D printed strap on heat sink for the diff is here! CFD says 340w of heat rejection at 110kph and 25w at zero speed/pure natural convection. I did avout 10p iterations hahahah.

Looks so nice I dun feel like strapping it on hahahah.

Finally got around to installing it, with loads of thermal paste and a little epoxy at the top edge to keep it down since the bolts are only along the bottom. Re-used the bolts that clamp the diff cover down, 47Nm torque, 3D printed part did not explode.

Does it work? Who knows. Haven't had a chance to go track, probably in Sept.

 

[Jianlun]

Added in the super rare GR Intake. Seems to be slightly quieter/less throaty compared to my original diaperless JDM stock intake (with all resonators removed except the kidney).

LTFT seems to stabilise <3% for the various load points. No CEL. No discernible effect on drivability (i have a numb butt hahah).

Oh yes I like how there is much more clearance to the filter and the eventually sandwich plate I putting in for my oil cooler (removed the previous one recently).

 

[Compelica]

I was changing oils today after the track session last week. And got a pleasant surprise! My airbox resonator delete plug was blown off again despite it being taped down! This can only mean one thing: Positive Pressure pre-filter!

In other news, I working on making an Aluminium 3D printed sandwich plate, with the goals of
1. minimum oil pressure loss, for bypass and unbypass flows.
2. Deleting the stock Oil warmer (which was tested by the USA guys to contribute to 10psi loss at high rpm), and routing the water lines thru the new sandwich plate to heat it up. And have "inward facing heat sinks" within the sandwich plate to heat the bypassed oil up faster. No doubt less efficient that the stock Oil warmer (with the small brazed channels) but the water lines are there and I didn't want to plug them up anyway hahaha.
3. Having the bulkhead AN10 male fittings one on top of the other, so that i can use straight female hose ends (and not the pressure lossy elbows now), to better fit the tight constraints that we will love to hate.
4. Incorporating the 100degC thermostat from Improved Racing so bypass (lower pressure loss!) happens more often. The recent track experience show Oil temps at 105degC max anyway.

Anyone interested do hit me up! I sourcing and finalising the 3D printing vendors now.

Read all your posts thus far, great work - do come to Malaysia more often

On the stock oil warmer and psi loss, do you recall where that discussion was? Am planning for some changes but would love to read up on that before considering further.

Thanks.

edit: found it

 

[Jianlun]

So..... I swapped the door card. Was irritated that the door opening is too small for my big safety boots when the door checker is at the first "check" position. Cos the stock door card is so bloody thick at the bottom (to give space for the water bottle pocket).

With this the thickness is like 3in less than the stock one at the bottom where it counts. Woohooo space for my boots and no more scuffing of the door card!

From here (but I just bought the driver side only)

Panneau de porte intérieur en fibre de carbone, pour Subaru BRZ ZD8 ZN8 GR86 KT Style 256 - AliExpress 34

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

a.aliexpress.com

It doesn't really fit well, but it's the only door card option I found online. Would have loved the TRD one that the gen1 had.... sigh. In all fairness, it probably wasn't post cured in the mold, and relaxed and warped and creeped during the curing into the current shape. But keeping it in the mold and heat cycle at low heat for extended periods probably isn't on the manufacturer's mind. Making many is. Sigh.

Plus I had to cut away the speaker area cos apparently they molded it without the speaker and even the embossed portion of the door structure, wierd. So if i didnt cut that portion out, even without the speaker, i would have had to space the door card off the door structure like 10mm. I wun have that, not when the whole point of the door card is to minimise the thickness for my boots hahaha!

Feels like it weighs the same as the stock door card, so much so that i didn't bother weighing. Kudos to the toyobaru for making the stock door card that light.

Used M4 rubber nutserts to mount the door card to the existing holes (which were where the stock door card push clips went into).

Still dunno what to do for the speaker area. This bare look is growing on me hahaha. I can probably live with the speakers exposed, but the Butyl lines above it (that sticks the transparent plastic weather sealing thingy) is fugly.

Any ideas on how to finish that portion off?

 

[PVGR]

Th

So..... I swapped the door card. Was irritated that the door opening is too small for my big safety boots when the door checker is at the first "check" position. Cos the stock door card is so bloody thick at the bottom (to give space for the water bottle pocket).

With this the thickness is like 3in less than the stock one at the bottom where it counts. Woohooo space for my boots and no more scuffing of the door card!

From here (but I just bought the driver side only)

Panneau de porte intérieur en fibre de carbone, pour Subaru BRZ ZD8 ZN8 GR86 KT Style 256 - AliExpress 34

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

a.aliexpress.com

It doesn't really fit well, but it's the only door card option I found online. Would have loved the TRD one that the gen1 had.... sigh. In all fairness, it probably wasn't post cured in the mold, and relaxed and warped and creeped during the curing into the current shape. But keeping it in the mold and heat cycle at low heat for extended periods probably isn't on the manufacturer's mind. Making many is. Sigh.

Plus I had to cut away the speaker area cos apparently they molded it without the speaker and even the embossed portion of the door structure, wierd. So if i didnt cut that portion out, even without the speaker, i would have had to space the door card off the door structure like 10mm. I wun have that, not when the whole point of the door card is to minimise the thickness for my boots hahaha!

Feels like it weighs the same as the stock door card, so much so that i didn't bother weighing. Kudos to the toyobaru for making the stock door card that light.

Used M4 rubber nutserts to mount the door card to the existing holes (which were where the stock door card push clips went into).

Still dunno what to do for the speaker area. This bare look is growing on me hahaha. I can probably live with the speakers exposed, but the Butyl lines above it (that sticks the transparent plastic weather sealing thingy) is fugly.

Any ideas on how to finish that portion off?

This section has always bothered me, I have large feet and always knock it. Not sure I could sacrifice the speaker though.

 

[TorqueOfTheDevil]

Great thread, I love a build thread, especially from someone as OCD as me

Really interested in the oil warmer replacement take-off thermostat. I need an oil cooler, but I want to have it on the driver's side as the UK car has headlight washers relocating the wash reservoir is a pain (that and I get through so much I'd need to refill the little HKS one regularly!)



I don’t like the idea of using different sized filters, and really hate the nasty blue of the Greddy kit, so it doesn’t seem to make sense to pay Greddy prices and only use the ducting, so I’m currently thinking Noble, with a Setrab cooler and a different take-off plate. I like the oil catching dish on the OEM warmer, and the only aftermarket take off I’ve seen with similar is the Mishimoto (but I don’t like the gold.. lol plain sandwich plate pictured) I then need a better solution for the arch liner exit, your 1 series is the best solution I’ve seen so far. Oxfordshire country lanes will mean I need some for of slats to keep the rain / mud / stones out. – I was thinking a 3d printed item that 1, has downward facing slats to keep the mess out, 2 follows the ribbed contours of the OEM arch liner for an OEM look. I love a good overthink for a problem I’ve essentially created



How is your oil cooler take-off coming along? Are you considering producing a small batch?

 

[Jianlun]

Great thread, I love a build thread, especially from someone as OCD as me

Really interested in the oil warmer replacement take-off thermostat. I need an oil cooler, but I want to have it on the driver's side as the UK car has headlight washers relocating the wash reservoir is a pain (that and I get through so much I'd need to refill the little HKS one regularly!)



I don’t like the idea of using different sized filters, and really hate the nasty blue of the Greddy kit, so it doesn’t seem to make sense to pay Greddy prices and only use the ducting, so I’m currently thinking Noble, with a Setrab cooler and a different take-off plate. I like the oil catching dish on the OEM warmer, and the only aftermarket take off I’ve seen with similar is the Mishimoto (but I don’t like the gold.. lol plain sandwich plate pictured) I then need a better solution for the arch liner exit, your 1 series is the best solution I’ve seen so far. Oxfordshire country lanes will mean I need some for of slats to keep the rain / mud / stones out. – I was thinking a 3d printed item that 1, has downward facing slats to keep the mess out, 2 follows the ribbed contours of the OEM arch liner for an OEM look. I love a good overthink for a problem I’ve essentially created



How is your oil cooler take-off coming along? Are you considering producing a small batch?

Thanks!

Been a little busy and havent installed that oil cooler take off. Hopefully within the next 2 months and definately will update this. No problem with making a small batch but let me install mine to make sure all good first hahaha.

I am on the fence about the oil catching dish because when i wipe the sealing surface (of where the oil filter o ring sits) when i replace the oil filter, i kinda prefer to "wipe radially outwards" so any sand/dirt doesnt get wiped into the center oil channel. Having the oil catching dish kinda makes it only possible to wipe around, potentially pushing some stuff in to the center, if it makes sense.

I wouldnt put a 3d print part at the exit of a hot heat exchanger cos depending on the type of material, it would either accelerate aging (and crack) or else soften. Plus i would think it wouldnt last too long under the onslaught of stones and stuff maybe?

Funny thing about the slats. I see some angled downwards (ie along the direction of forward wheel rotation basically) and others angled sideways (directly pointing out of the wheel well). The 1 series one is diagonal, best (or worst? Hahaha) of both worlds!

 

[TorqueOfTheDevil]

Good point about the dish and grit. I feel I'm comfortable wiping "away", and haven't really noticed much dirt getting there so far.

for teh heat exchanger exhaust I was more thinking just printing the flange, to take a generic flat louvre, but don't have much experience with 3D printing.

I pictured something where you can screw both sides of a flange on that matches the contours of the arch liner, and that itself when initially screwed on becomes the template to cut it out, once cut re fit it with the grille part in. In theory the design could be simple and repeatable for small batches. material for the flange aside the main thing to watch would be the wheel clearance.

Downwards, outwards or diagnal! What a wonderful problem to ponder!

 

[Jianlun]

Tried to find out the scrub radius of our cars cos no real info online. I running AS6 on 17X8 ET42 with -1.5deg camber (using camber bolts, top hole). Otherwise stock suspension.

Looks like its about +15mm scrub now. Which puts stock at maybe +9mm (if you disregard my -1.5deg camber, not sure how scrub changes with camber).

 

[Jianlun]

In other news, back from track. Didnt overheat the diff this time. Diff fluid came out dirty (10000km since the last change) but doesnt smell funky. Same ambient temps, same (very sad) timings hahaha.

So i guess the heat sinks work. Sorry, nothing more quantative.

 

[Jianlun]

So..... I swapped the door card. Was irritated that the door opening is too small for my big safety boots when the door checker is at the first "check" position. Cos the stock door card is so bloody thick at the bottom (to give space for the water bottle pocket).

With this the thickness is like 3in less than the stock one at the bottom where it counts. Woohooo space for my boots and no more scuffing of the door card!

From here (but I just bought the driver side only)

Panneau de porte intérieur en fibre de carbone, pour Subaru BRZ ZD8 ZN8 GR86 KT Style 256 - AliExpress 34

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

a.aliexpress.com

It doesn't really fit well, but it's the only door card option I found online. Would have loved the TRD one that the gen1 had.... sigh. In all fairness, it probably wasn't post cured in the mold, and relaxed and warped and creeped during the curing into the current shape. But keeping it in the mold and heat cycle at low heat for extended periods probably isn't on the manufacturer's mind. Making many is. Sigh.

Plus I had to cut away the speaker area cos apparently they molded it without the speaker and even the embossed portion of the door structure, wierd. So if i didnt cut that portion out, even without the speaker, i would have had to space the door card off the door structure like 10mm. I wun have that, not when the whole point of the door card is to minimise the thickness for my boots hahaha!

Feels like it weighs the same as the stock door card, so much so that i didn't bother weighing. Kudos to the toyobaru for making the stock door card that light.

Used M4 rubber nutserts to mount the door card to the existing holes (which were where the stock door card push clips went into).

Still dunno what to do for the speaker area. This bare look is growing on me hahaha. I can probably live with the speakers exposed, but the Butyl lines above it (that sticks the transparent plastic weather sealing thingy) is fugly.

Any ideas on how to finish that portion off?

Done. Added a plate to cover my (bad) workmanship cos i needed to cut the hole for the window controls and the edges didnt look nice hahhahaha.

Gloss carbon to "talk" to the gloss carbon of my passenger side dash delete. Else the whole door card is the only matt piece in the car.

 

[Jianlun]

Season of Giving!

Gave my car some presents!

1. New Titanium exhaust tips. Basically bought a tube of 4in Ti, put on lathe with 100 then 1500 grit to "brush it", then slash cut, then butane torch it blue. And with what is possibly the most overdesigned exhaust tip adaptor on earth hahahah. 3d printed aluminum. Supposedly with the louvers in this direction, i get sllliiiggghhhttttllllyyy less exit loss for the air as compared to a simple extension. Well if its worth doing, its worth overdoing.

 

[Jianlun]

2. Added some heat shield (1mm embossed aluminium) over the underside of the GR Intake cos it was eating at me that some of the air from the radiator fan impinges on the intake lower portions. 10hp gain in my mind, 0hp gain in real life. Hahahah.

 

[Jianlun]

3. Got front mudflaps from https://megachipusa.com/products/2021-toyota-gr86-splash-guards

Really nice quality. Especially love that it has a profiled edge and not a simple flat plate.

Shortened it a little cos i didnt want it too high up the sides.

 

[Jianlun]

4. And my fav mod cos its kinda free. A friend told me about this Pentel Red marker being very close to STI red aka Sakura Red. I couldnt resist.

 

[Kestanax]

I was changing oils today after the track session last week. And got a pleasant surprise! My airbox resonator delete plug was blown off again despite it being taped down! This can only mean one thing: Positive Pressure pre-filter!

I'm sorry. But could you expound on this? "Positive Pressure pre-filter!". By my understanding, this means more air for the engine if you plug the big resonator adjacent to the airbox right? Just to clarify, the "kidney-shaped" resonator in the intake tube post-filter is NOT removed since it's known to cause torque dip.

With more air coming in, that would probably make it run more lean, but the ECU can learn and compensate, no? I did a simple test. My 2nd gen BRZ has a drop-in K&N 33-5060 air filter. I taped the big resonator, and gave the car a bit of time to "adjust", then did a 30 min highway run. I then removed the tape, and did the same thing. I'd share what my butt dyno felt. But I'd like your input first.

 

[Jianlun]

I'm sorry. But could you expound on this? "Positive Pressure pre-filter!". By my understanding, this means more air for the engine if you plug the big resonator adjacent to the airbox right? Just to clarify, the "kidney-shaped" resonator in the intake tube post-filter is NOT removed since it's known to cause torque dip.

With more air coming in, that would probably make it run more lean, but the ECU can learn and compensate, no? I did a simple test. My 2nd gen BRZ has a drop-in K&N 33-5060 air filter. I taped the big resonator, and gave the car a bit of time to "adjust", then did a 30 min highway run. I then removed the tape, and did the same thing. I'd share what my butt dyno felt. But I'd like your input first.

Kept the kidney shaped resonator and removed the long resonator (right beside the rad support/frame) and added a piece of hard foam roughly cut to shape to plug the hole with some tape over it (sorry didnt have photos).

The positive pressure i referring to is probably due to my Greddy inlet tube which takes air from right behind the grill/number plate, where there is good positive pressure.

So at speed, there is positive pressure in the intake and (more) negative pressure in the engine bay causing the delete plug to pop off.

 

[GRistopher]

So you've created your own ram-air system. nice.

 

[Kestanax]

Kept the kidney shaped resonator and removed the long resonator (right beside the rad support/frame) and added a piece of hard foam roughly cut to shape to plug the hole with some tape over it (sorry didnt have photos).

The positive pressure i referring to is probably due to my Greddy inlet tube which takes air from right behind the grill/number plate, where there is good positive pressure.

So at speed, there is positive pressure in the intake and (more) negative pressure in the engine bay causing the delete plug to pop off.

So is plugging the big resonator beside the airbox good for performance or not? Honestly, it kinda felt like the car lost performance when I plugged it with duct tape.

 

[Jianlun]

So is plugging the big resonator beside the airbox good for performance or not? Honestly, it kinda felt like the car lost performance when I plugged it with duct tape.

No perceptible loss in performance as far as i can tell for that resonator beside the airbox (and i reckon since it is upstream of the filter element, any helmholtz effect would be further damped by the filter anyway.

As for the kidney shaped resonator, some people say there is a difference. Even HKS in their marketing materials justifying why they kept that even with their CAI. I didnt do any before and after. In fact a year back, i bought the mishimoto silicone tube (that goes from after the stock air filter box to the throttle body) that retains this kidney resonator for the exact reason i didn't want a loss in performance.

But thats all behind me now since i have the big ass GR Intake (which doesnt have any resonator and in fact changes the air intake length somewhat). But also cant tell any difference. Maybe i have a numb butt hahaha