GR86 What did you do with your GR86 today

The soft as cheese bolt/stud claims another victim. Was only removing wheel to give a thorough clean😡. No wonder GT86 owners swap to ARP studs. Replacement Nut is £9 and stud is £5.View attachment 27888
I am changing mines for extended ARP ones and will have some oem length ARP studs for sale soon

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This is exactly what I want to do 🤔. Did you do it yourself, or get a ‘trimmer’ to do it? Also, do those plastic cover things lift off/remove?
I did it myself, but I'll take it as a compliment if you thought there's a chance somebody else did it 😄 The plastic covers pop off really easily.
This looks great colour match is perfect. Do you have a Amazon link for the self adhesive roll?
Here you go: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116139381227 it was pretty pliable so it fit the contours well. It also came with a little squeegee tool. 50cm * 152cm was enough to do both pillar trims, the glovebox, rear seat panels, and then there's enough left over to do something like the centre console around the track mode/heated seat buttons.
 
After reading the woes of sheared nuts/studs, I took to removing all of my Tuner Nuts to apply a thin layer of Coppercrest to the threads to reduce the likelihood of cold welding. I also dropped the tightening torque down from the (Bola) recommended setting of 130 to 127Nm as my (800Nm) Impact Wrench struggled to remove at least 3 of the nuts which had been over-tightened! 🥵
Another discovery was that I have an ‘odd’ nut that is shorter than all of the others (32mm vs 37mm). OCD triggered! Email to Skidz has been fired off for a new nut.
Hopefully I’ve saved myself some trauma down the line (thanks to this thread).
View attachment 27896
Nothing worse that a short nut
 
After reading the woes of sheared nuts/studs, I took to removing all of my Tuner Nuts to apply a thin layer of Coppercrest to the threads to reduce the likelihood of cold welding. I also dropped the tightening torque down from the (Bola) recommended setting of 130 to 127Nm as my (800Nm) Impact Wrench struggled to remove at least 3 of the nuts which had been over-tightened! 🥵
Another discovery was that I have an ‘odd’ nut that is shorter than all of the others (32mm vs 37mm). OCD triggered! Email to Skidz has been fired off for a new nut.
Hopefully I’ve saved myself some trauma down the line (thanks to this thread).
View attachment 27896
There will be a ratio for torque reduction for whatever you’ve used, be careful as you can end up damaging studs due to the lower friction
 
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Are the studs easy to change? And where can I get better ones from? Makes sense to do it when I get new wheels so would need new nuts too.
I Googled the arp numbers and bought from a mix of ebay sellers and tarmac sport, I will be selling some oem length ones and some that are 2. 75" as I went for 3" ones.
I would say they are easy if you opt for oem length, if you go extended then the rears become more involved. Not a day job for me.
You would want a stud installer, a torque wrench and a power tool. You could hammer the studs out as in the first video or get a tool like in the second but be warned that the tool I got threaded itself, so had to get a second one and decided to use the hammer still.



 
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There will be a ratio for torque reduction for whatever you’ve used, be careful as you can end up damaging studs due to the lower friction
Yes important not to overlook this. The general rule is reduced the torque setting by 25%
 
According to this video you can get 3" studs quite easily into the rear if you remove the ABS sensor and the 4 bolts for the hub:


I plan to do this soon, with 3" Hardrace studs.
 
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According to this video you can get 3" studs quite easily into the rear if you remove the ABS sensor and the 4 bolts for the hub:


I plan to do this soon, with 3" Hardrace studs.

He said that but it wasn't that easy for me, you need to pull the hub from the brake dust shield to make some space. I still have to do 2 wheels as I had to wait for some 3" arp ones to arrive
 
Installed the Strut brace with brake stopper Friday. Did go for a spin Saturday and noticed an improvement but wouldn't know for certain until I got it on one of my regular fun roads. Went to Aberaeron to see friends then back via Llandovery and the Black Mountain road which has been ruined with average speed cams. The bit from Aberaeron to Llandovery I know well. Most of it were my old commuting roads. Turn in definitely feels more direct and with temps up I was really getting throttle on early after trail braking into most turns and it took it well. Always use my old vRS as comparison as I'd regularly give it death and while I won't risk the 86 like I did the vRS, for many spots the 86 is the same or quicker, especially on corner entry. It's so nice having a car you don't have to constantly manage issues and is so stable as NSL speeds.

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I did notice when fuel was low, the rear feeling looser and more wayward was more pronounced with the bar. May look into a rear bar but whatever I get can't hinder a spare wheel. Also want to look into the SARD bars and those Yamaha bars too. But both are expensive. What next I'm not sure. Am intrigued by the diff kit to remove some of the movement. Wheels still on radar.
 
I did it myself, but I'll take it as a compliment if you thought there's a chance somebody else did it 😄 The plastic covers pop off really easily.

Here you go: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116139381227 it was pretty pliable so it fit the contours well. It also came with a little squeegee tool. 50cm * 152cm was enough to do both pillar trims, the glovebox, rear seat panels, and then there's enough left over to do something like the centre console around the track mode/heated seat buttons.
Thanks for the ebay link. Did you go for charcoal or black ?
 
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