GR Yaris What did you do to your GR Yaris today?

Well, not today, but a few months ago I installed the larger 7-row heat exchanger/oil cooler. Normal driving it seems to stay right around coolant temperature and on fast winding, maybe 10°C cooler than with the 5-row exchanger. Yea, 110°C is safe, but 100°C is better. We're only up to 26°C daily temps right now, so we'll see what it does during the summer. Oil pressure is the same.
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Well, not today, but a few months ago I installed the larger 7-row heat exchanger/oil cooler. Normal driving it seems to stay right around coolant temperature and on fast winding, maybe 10°C cooler than with the 5-row exchanger. Yea, 110°C is safe, but 100°C is better. We're only up to 26°C daily temps right now, so we'll see what it does during the summer. Oil pressure is the same. View attachment 35621
not sure if that helps alot when pushed harder, it just warms up water more. maybe with bonnet vents it could work, if stock water cooler is sufficient - not sure though.
My waters never go above 90'C nowadays on track.. no matter how warm..
 
Well, not today, but a few months ago I installed the larger 7-row heat exchanger/oil cooler. Normal driving it seems to stay right around coolant temperature and on fast winding, maybe 10°C cooler than with the 5-row exchanger. Yea, 110°C is safe, but 100°C is better. We're only up to 26°C daily temps right now, so we'll see what it does during the summer. Oil pressure is the same. View attachment 35621

Looks good, I didn't know something like this existed.

Where are they available?
 
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not sure if that helps alot when pushed harder, it just warms up water more. maybe with bonnet vents it could work, if stock water cooler is sufficient - not sure though.
My waters never go above 90'C nowadays on track.. no matter how warm..

I've thought about this. I figure if the coolant temp increases, I can always just run the inlet line to the heat exchanger to an external cooler first. The supply coolant is coolant from the radiator outlet, sourced directly from the water pump housing. With a Setrab 9-row, there's the possibility of overcooling the oil, so it will be an interesting experiment.

On the upside, it eliminates the potential catastrophic point of failure when running an external oil cooler, as well as the pressure drop.
 
I've thought about this. I figure if the coolant temp increases, I can always just run the inlet line to the heat exchanger to an external cooler first. The supply coolant is coolant from the radiator outlet, sourced directly from the water pump housing. With a Setrab 9-row, there's the possibility of overcooling the oil, so it will be an interesting experiment.

On the upside, it eliminates the potential catastrophic point of failure when running an external oil cooler, as well as the pressure drop.
of course you could also run additional aux radiator in fender as with mk2, if oil cooler is not preferred.
 
of course you could also run additional aux radiator in fender as with mk2, if oil cooler is not preferred.
Despite having tested the mk2 only a little with high temperatures, I think they could have saved the additional coolant radiator and directly installed an oil radiator.
With 25-27º outside it is very easy to see the engine oil at 100º without going too fast.
 
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Took mine on the ferry to Finland for the weekend. Following a BMW M4 with a silly pops and bangs map on it through Helsinki today. Wife commented on how a group of young lads at a bus stop were all more interested in the Yaris as it passed than the M4. People of Finland have taste and calmer roads!
 
Cusco differential mount collars. Fills the space in the factory mount. Noticeable difference in the directness of throttle inputs. Not like the engine torque mount, but worth the price, IMO.

Front drops down enough to get the top inserts in without removing the exhaust, but the rear one isn't going in without removing the rear can (HKS, at least). 86nm front bolts and 120nm on the rear.



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of course you could also run additional aux radiator in fender as with mk2, if oil cooler is not preferred.

The goal is just the ultimate fast winding cruiser. This car will never see track use :) Small changes to make it a better "B-road" cruiser.

We only get to around 32°C in summer, but the humidity is high. Like 80% on sunny days 🥵 which makes everything run hotter. I have an external oil cooler kit with the 9-row Setrab core (not installed), and I've thought about putting it in the stock oil heat exchanger coolant return loop. That will dump the heat absorbed from the oil to atmosphere before it returns to the radiator. Seems like a low-risk win-win.

No serious points of failure added (like an external oil cooler does).
No over-cooling of the oil.
Taking the oil cooling burden out of the main cooling system.
Using -10 lines will add another liter of coolant to the system.
 
Cusco differential mount collars. Fills the space in the factory mount. Noticeable difference in the directness of throttle inputs. Not like the engine torque mount, but worth the price, IMO.

Front drops down enough to get the top inserts in without removing the exhaust, but the rear one isn't going in without removing the rear can (HKS, at least). 86nm front bolts and 120nm on the rear.



View attachment 35687View attachment 35688View attachment 35689View attachment 35690View attachment 35691
So do they work or not?

 
The goal is just the ultimate fast winding cruiser. This car will never see track use :) Small changes to make it a better "B-road" cruiser.

We only get to around 32°C in summer, but the humidity is high. Like 80% on sunny days 🥵 which makes everything run hotter. I have an external oil cooler kit with the 9-row Setrab core (not installed), and I've thought about putting it in the stock oil heat exchanger coolant return loop. That will dump the heat absorbed from the oil to atmosphere before it returns to the radiator. Seems like a low-risk win-win.

No serious points of failure added (like an external oil cooler does).
No over-cooling of the oil.
Taking the oil cooling burden out of the main cooling system.
Using -10 lines will add another liter of coolant to the system.
Its apples and oranges but with correct oil cooler I don't think you can really overcool the oil.
I'm usually at 80-110'C with oil temps that is ok. This of course depends on how you use the car and how much WOT time it sees.
adding more fluid capacity is not that bad thing, at least with oil I think its just good to get additional 1ltr of oil in system, it makes it better for the engine.
 
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Changed the brake pads all round for the first time as they've felt a bit rough and juddery for a while. I'm on 34k miles and there was plenty of meat left on them (shameful, I know), but what stood out was how much crud had accumulated in the calipers and on the pins. The brake dust and slivers of corroded metal from the outside edge of the disc had to be cleaned out before I could get the pads out.

Anyway, all clean, pins sanded and greased, and the middle pedal feels awesome again. From now on I'm going to try and clean them out and grease the pins when I swap between summer and winter wheels to stop it building up again.

Stock wheels cleaned, coated, and back on with a couple of mm wear still left on the original tyres. Crossclimates on the winters still have loads of tread left, so will definitely do another winter at least.

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The only mod I can afford this year is the red centre cap sticker. Also, because it amused me, here’s my Mini wheel for scale:
 
So do they work or not?

They've been installed for a few months now. Very little NVH increase. Makes it feel a little more direct on large throttle changes, especially in lower gears. Nothing like the engine torque mount, but noticeable enough to be worth the money IMO, but my cost was only ¥16,000.
 
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Its apples and oranges but with correct oil cooler I don't think you can really overcool the oil.

What I was trying to describe (poorly), was the placement of the secondary radiator in the oil heat exchanger coolant loop and low load condition.

If you were to install the secondary coolant radiator in the oil heat exchanger loop before the heat exchanger, it would provide excellent oil cooling under high load as the coolant temperature into the exchanger would be much lower than radiator exit temperature. But there's no real way to easily regulate the coolant temperature going into the heat exchanger, so during normal driving it would likely drop the oil temperature well below engine coolant temperature.

Installing it in the coolant loop post oil heat exchanger, the coolant into the heat exchanger would still be at radiator exit temperature, but the oil heat rejected into the coolant would then be rejected to atmosphere before being returned to the main coolant system.
 
The second hand KW v4 I got last year are finally in the car.
KW stock configuration and height for now, and I just did the string alignment in the garage, tried to go 0 toe everywhere just to be simple. Still need to check and adjust camber (and re-align later).

+ 20mm front, 25mm rear spacers so it looks better.
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