GR Yaris The EcuTek thread

I run 30% ethanol on the stock map, have done for ages. Goes better and sounds better. I really should check the ltft is around 10% but feels great.
Same, have been at e25 for ages. Ethanol sensor addition is good feature if running high boost setup, but maybe it also needs upgraded valve train to play safe.
 
What's the state of EcuTek these days?

I am considering going that route in the future, and I would be doing it remotely, as I don't really trust any tuners here in Norway to have the same level of experience and expertise.

Would probably go for Litchfield, simply because they are the ones I have heard most about, and they seem professional.

Should I expect having to do a number of revisions before I am happy? Would I have to pay for each of these? How much should I expect to fork out before I have a good consistent feeling tune?

For a 2022 model, can I just order the kit, plug it in, and book a remote tuning session, or would a local tuner have to unlock the ECU first?

I see Litchfield state that you get 3 maps. 98, 95 and stock.
Can I have map1 be stock map, so that the car always starts up with stock tune?
Is the only difference between 95 and 98ron maps the amount of boost? In other words, can the 95ron map be used as a "safer"/less aggressive map while still filling 98?
 
What's the state of EcuTek these days?

I am considering going that route in the future, and I would be doing it remotely, as I don't really trust any tuners here in Norway to have the same level of experience and expertise.

Would probably go for Litchfield, simply because they are the ones I have heard most about, and they seem professional.

Should I expect having to do a number of revisions before I am happy? Would I have to pay for each of these? How much should I expect to fork out before I have a good consistent feeling tune?

For a 2022 model, can I just order the kit, plug it in, and book a remote tuning session, or would a local tuner have to unlock the ECU first?

I see Litchfield state that you get 3 maps. 98, 95 and stock.
Can I have map1 be stock map, so that the car always starts up with stock tune?
Is the only difference between 95 and 98ron maps the amount of boost? In other words, can the 95ron map be used as a "safer"/less aggressive map while still filling 98?
The process is, you plug in the OBD dongle and register the app, choosing your tuner from the list. The car’s details then get sent to the tuner directly, they compile the file for the reflash and then it gets sent back to the app.

You can then reflash - takes about 10 mins - and start driving. Lichfield will ask you to record some logs doing various things, again all done from in the app, and they’ll review them to check fuelling, ignition, boost targets aren’t being overshot, temps etc.

If your car is like mine then everything was pretty much spot on so they’ll probably tweak the file once more to optimise and send you that. That should be it.

I know that some folk have had multiple files, I guess it depends on mods, fuel quality etc.

They’ll work with you to get it to where it should be, you don’t need to pay for additional files in the initial setup period. I think they said nominally six months. After that, probably chargeable if you make additional mods and want to remap to take advantage.

As for the map selection, it remembers the last map so you don’t need to change it unless you fill up with different fuel. Of course it will run on the 95 map just fine regardless of what fuel you have in the tank.
 
Last edited:
For anyone who wants to tune remotely, think about where you can safely and with the least amount of hassle, take the car for blasts - straight line runs in third gear where you can pull to the red line, to send the data back to your tuner. With derestricted roads five minutes from where I live it wasn’t an issue for me, but if you’re in a city it might mean a few trips to the countryside, and avoiding traffic and speed cameras.
 
For anyone who wants to tune remotely, think about where you can safely and with the least amount of hassle, take the car for blasts - straight line runs in third gear where you can pull to the red line, to send the data back to your tuner. With derestricted roads five minutes from where I live it wasn’t an issue for me, but if you’re in a city it might mean a few trips to the countryside, and avoiding traffic and speed cameras.
That’s sound advice.

Having said that, the tests don’t need to be done as soon as you reflash. In fact, there’s a solid argument for *not* doing it straight away as the ECU will ‘learn in’ during the initial period and provide a more accurate picture of how the tune is working with your engine when you do eventually log the run.

The initial map is not going to be on the ragged edge so there won’t be any issue running it like that for a while.

As I recall it was over a week before I managed to get the log file back to Litchfield.
 
The process is, you plug in the OBD dongle and register the app, choosing your tuner from the list. The car’s details then get sent to the tuner directly, they compile the file for the reflash and then it gets sent back to the app.

You can then reflash - takes about 10 mins - and start driving. Lichfield will ask you to record some logs doing various things, again all done from in the app, and they’ll review them to check fuelling, ignition, boost targets aren’t being overshot, temps etc.

If your car is like mine then everything was pretty much spot on so they’ll probably tweak the file once more to optimise and send you that. That should be it.

I know that some folk have had multiple files, I guess it depends on mods, fuel quality etc.

They’ll work with you to get it to where it should be, you don’t need to pay for additional files in the initial setup period. I think they said nominally six months. After that, probably chargeable if you make additional mods and want to remap to take advantage.

As for the map selection, it remembers the last map so you don’t need to change it unless you fill up with different fuel. Of course it will run on the 95 map just fine regardless of what fuel you have in the tank.
Thank you Duke. Good Information.
 
IMG_3057.webp


336bhp a nice gain of 60bhp and 30Nm my understanding is the EcuTek software is currently the limitation of Torque rather than limiting for hardware safety.

I was up 15bhp from stock with previous mods so hoping the remap takes me to 350+bhp and then I’ll focus on handling as brakes are complete.
 
336 sounds about right with those mods, what extra do you have that would take it to 350?
 
336 sounds about right with those mods, what extra do you have that would take it to 350?
Eventuri intake and Airtec intake manifold although based off gains recorded for the Eventuri suspect all 15bhp from stock is from that.

I do also have Airtec intercooler, oil cooler, oil catch can.

And I’m currently running EcuTek but a light map for development along with a Zeitronix flexfuel setup to run Ethanol.

I’m awaiting new cooling pack rad and gearbox rad, exhaust and GPF delete hopefully within the next month.
 
Call me old school
.. But what happened to putting a car on a dyno and mapping/tweaking for hours with numerous runs. With before and after graphs etc. Rather than this Lazy "map by email/text/carrier pigeon" method now. 😒
Haha, I guess it’s 95% of the result for 5% of the effort. Is that cheating? 😁

Will it be as good as a ‘proper’ map? No, but then this is using the stock ECU on a standard or mostly standard engine so there is no need to dial-in all the parameters you would do with a MoTeC/Haltech/Link etc.; the ECU can handle them already.

Modern ECUs seem to have the technical capability and enough storage to handle a much larger range of variables/operating conditions than ECUs of old so there is still some headroom in there to play with and I’m not sure in 2025 that a Syvecs or something would actually get you much extra on a standard/nearly standard engine, but it may lose you some convenience features and/or pop the odd warning light on.

As soon as you start changing turbo, injectors etc. then I’d bet you’re far better off with an aftermarket ECU as normally the factory part can’t really take advantage of the different rev limit, duty cycles, boost behaviour etc.

To me, a decent custom/semi-custom remap of the stock ECU is a reasonable halfway house between a tuning box or drop-in remap and a full aftermarket ECU.
 
The process is, you plug in the OBD dongle and register the app, choosing your tuner from the list. The car’s details then get sent to the tuner directly, they compile the file for the reflash and then it gets sent back to the app.

You can then reflash - takes about 10 mins - and start driving. Lichfield will ask you to record some logs doing various things, again all done from in the app, and they’ll review them to check fuelling, ignition, boost targets aren’t being overshot, temps etc.

If your car is like mine then everything was pretty much spot on so they’ll probably tweak the file once more to optimise and send you that. That should be it.

I know that some folk have had multiple files, I guess it depends on mods, fuel quality etc.

They’ll work with you to get it to where it should be, you don’t need to pay for additional files in the initial setup period. I think they said nominally six months. After that, probably chargeable if you make additional mods and want to remap to take advantage.

As for the map selection, it remembers the last map so you don’t need to change it unless you fill up with different fuel. Of course it will run on the 95 map just fine regardless of what fuel you have in the tank.
How long did it take Litchfield to send the first flash file after you submitted car details to them?
 
How long did it take Litchfield to send the first flash file after you submitted car details to them?
Can't recall exactly but their turnaround was quick, only a day or so I think.
 
How long did it take Litchfield to send the first flash file after you submitted car details to them?
Probably 30 mins in my instance. Had a GPF del pipe fitted at another garage and had a base file sent over from Litchfield whilst I waited so flashed the ECU before I drove home. Done some data logging then got a map revision within the same day 👍
 
Sent en email to Litchfield just to get confirmation on a few things.

What struck me as odd was this:

Map 1 - 99 Octane full power map



Map 2 - 95 Octane Map



Map 3 – Standard power and torque levels



When the ignition is turned off it will revert to map 1.


But people in this thread has said it remembers the last selected map?
 
Sent en email to Litchfield just to get confirmation on a few things.

What struck me as odd was this:




But people in this thread has said it remembers the last selected map?
If you don’t want the full power map as default just email them and they’ll change it. It was the other way round with stock as default but the majority of owners wanted the full beans so it was reversed in a very early version.
 
Sent en email to Litchfield just to get confirmation on a few things.

What struck me as odd was this:




But people in this thread has said it remembers the last selected map?
I think it reverts. I can check Sunday. But with so many settings in the software for tuners I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s tuner changeable.
 
I think it reverts. I can check Sunday. But with so many settings in the software for tuners I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s tuner changeable.
I’m pretty sure it does still revert hence why default 1 is the full power map as that’s what was requested by us all. Easy way to check is hold the cancel(?) button to see which map is currently selected (defined by rev marker 1k, 2k, 3k).
 
Back
Top