GR86 Running in engine

Dealers don't care as if it goes pop it's got a 10yr warranty if they've always serviced it.. If you plan on keeping long term, there's no harm in doing an early change. If it's good enough for M cars. My dealer though was happy to do it and didn't dissuade me like some here have had. Put in my supplied Millers which is better than spec and filter.
 
Toyota doesn't recommend a run in change fyi
Running in but no oil change?
How are we supposed to know what to do with advice like that being the opposite of advice like this:
Ignore. Who are they and what authority do they have? I’d listen to the manufacturer’s advice.
 
I was quoted approximately £198 to change the oil and filter at 1000 miles for my incoming car at Johnson’s lLiverpool. (0w20 oil)
 
I had a 1000 mile oil/filter change (though it was more c1600 by the time I got it scheduled), in conjunction with the rear parking sensors, ducktail, front mudflaps, Guildfird did the oil/filter for £100.
 
The physical manual that came with the car seems to be smaller and less detailed than the full manual. If you log into your My Toyota account there should be a link to download a .PDF of the full manual.

Anyway, someone posted an excerpt from it earlier in this thread somewhere, basically keep it under 4k revs for 1000 miles.
 
The physical manual that came with the car seems to be smaller and less detailed than the full manual. If you log into your My Toyota account there should be a link to download a .PDF of the full manual.

Anyway, someone posted an excerpt from it earlier in this thread somewhere, basically keep it under 4k revs for 1000 miles.

☝️☝️☝️
 
I'm near 900 and totally bored of babying it around now.

I just watched that video, avoid extended idling especially when the engine is hot. Great, my first 100 miles were stuck in heavy traffic :rolleyes:
I ran it 500 miles, then changed oil. At 900 miles, you're more than good to go.
 
Really good discussion topic and I feel a very important part of new car ownership. I'd extend this further than simply engine run in procedure though as the first engine oil change timing along with engine oil spec complete the run in cycle. In addition, it's important not to overlook gearbox and rear diff. Bed in also applies to transmissions, as does the first gear oil change timing and gear oil specs for gearbox and rear diff.

I can't tell you what oils the GR86 leaves the factory with, and I very much doubt your Toyota dealer or even TGB could confirm the exact data for this. I think it's a fair assumption, and it's only that, the factory send the cars with engine and gear oils to aid run in/bed in. So, if this is the case, they should be replaced with optimum spec oils as soon as possible, following completion of run in/bed in. Oil manufacturers produce a whole array of oil specs to suit a whole array of applications. For example, engine run in oils. How does an engine run in oil differ to say an optimum engine oil for the GR86 - The dedicated competition engine run in oil we use for our high power engine builds is a mineral oil, and the oil manufacturer recommends an engine should only run for up to 4 hours on this. It serves a purpose, but once that purpose has been achieved, it must be replaced, and we replace with a high performance fully synthetic oil of the correct viscosity and specification. This is an extreme example, but still relevant in that engine run in procedure should be in line with the overall quality of an engine assembly. Very accurately assembled engines, accurate clearances etc require less run in, and with correct maintenance will typically prove more durable. Toyota have the worlds most powerful production 3 cylinder engine, the G16E-GTS engine used in the GR Yaris and GR Corolla. I replaced the engine oil in my GR Yaris @ 100 miles, using Ravenol USVO 0W-20 GF-6A. Another 4,000 miles later and with another couple more Ravenol engine oil changes during that time, engine performance and reliability was spot on. Technology, engine design, materials/component strength, advances in oil technology and engine assembly process and accuracy have reduced the need for lengthy run in/bed in. In the case of modern engines, you are essentially seating piston rings to cylinder walls. Manufacturers use cylinder honing processes and tooling to accelerate this too.
 
Really good discussion topic and I feel a very important part of new car ownership. I'd extend this further than simply engine run in procedure though as the first engine oil change timing along with engine oil spec complete the run in cycle. In addition, it's important not to overlook gearbox and rear diff. Bed in also applies to transmissions, as does the first gear oil change timing and gear oil specs for gearbox and rear diff.

I can't tell you what oils the GR86 leaves the factory with, and I very much doubt your Toyota dealer or even TGB could confirm the exact data for this. I think it's a fair assumption, and it's only that, the factory send the cars with engine and gear oils to aid run in/bed in. So, if this is the case, they should be replaced with optimum spec oils as soon as possible, following completion of run in/bed in. Oil manufacturers produce a whole array of oil specs to suit a whole array of applications. For example, engine run in oils. How does an engine run in oil differ to say an optimum engine oil for the GR86 - The dedicated competition engine run in oil we use for our high power engine builds is a mineral oil, and the oil manufacturer recommends an engine should only run for up to 4 hours on this. It serves a purpose, but once that purpose has been achieved, it must be replaced, and we replace with a high performance fully synthetic oil of the correct viscosity and specification. This is an extreme example, but still relevant in that engine run in procedure should be in line with the overall quality of an engine assembly. Very accurately assembled engines, accurate clearances etc require less run in, and with correct maintenance will typically prove more durable. Toyota have the worlds most powerful production 3 cylinder engine, the G16E-GTS engine used in the GR Yaris and GR Corolla. I replaced the engine oil in my GR Yaris @ 100 miles, using Ravenol USVO 0W-20 GF-6A. Another 4,000 miles later and with another couple more Ravenol engine oil changes during that time, engine performance and reliability was spot on. Technology, engine design, materials/component strength, advances in oil technology and engine assembly process and accuracy have reduced the need for lengthy run in/bed in. In the case of modern engines, you are essentially seating piston rings to cylinder walls. Manufacturers use cylinder honing processes and tooling to accelerate this too.
Do you need to replace the oil filter with each oil change? I assume you do it yourself?
 
Have you seen the colour of the oil after the 1000 mile run-in period? It was almost crystal clear still on my gr86, looked like it'd just come out the bottle. I'm pretty sure they don't put special run-in oil in the engine for the customers, let alone diff/gear oil which are due to last 10s of thousands of miles. Whether they do at an early point of the build I couldn't say.
 
It will only ever been speculation as to what these FA24s leave the factory with but I don't think it would be wrong to assume that it meets Toyota's... well Subaru's spec to make it to the first service without causing irreparable harm. If it didn't then we would all have a 1000 mile oil exchange printed in our service book. Don't forgot that there are hundreds of thousands of cars out there owned by people who aren't as enthusiastic or as thorough as us and their engines are going to be absolutely fine.

There are no cons with changing the oil at 1000 miles, but is it necessary? Will it make much difference? I dunno, lets all compare compression test results after 150,000 miles... those who are proactive and had their engine oil analysed come back with mixed results. All I know is OEMs from an engineering standpoint, tend to know what they are doing. I think what's more important is making sure you stick to the service intervals, maintain the levels and always warm the car up properly,
 
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It will only ever been speculation as to what these FA24s leave the factory with but I don't think it would be wrong to assume that it meets Toyota's... well Subaru's spec to make it to the first service without causing irreparable harm. If it didn't then we would all have a 1000 mile oil exchange printed in our service book. Don't forgot that there are hundreds of thousands of cars out there owned by people who aren't as enthusiastic or as thorough as us and their engines are going to be absolutely fine.

There are no cons with changing the oil at 1000 miles, but is it necessary? Will it make much difference? I dunno, lets all compare compression test results after 150,000 miles... those who are proactive and had their engine oil analysed come back with mixed results. All I know is OEMs from an engineering standpoint, tend to know what they are doing. I think what's more important is making sure you stick to the service intervals, maintain the levels and always warm the car up properly,
OEMs often set service intervals to keep service costs down for monthly plans rather than what is long term good for the car. That said, the benefit will be seen much later in the car's life, so in a lot of cases you're spending money so you won't have bore wear or valve stem seal wear long after you've sold the car.
 
They did yes, but that strategy was when you saw service intervals set at 20k to 25k miles, not just one single oil and filter change at the start of the cars life. Alot of manufacturers seem to have rolled back the extended servicing which if anything isn't great for business, as I'm sure they would want you to visit them more often. It's not unknown that alot of money is made through servicing and repair. Also I don't see many cars nowadays blowing smoke out of their exhaust from bad valves seals or worn rings.
 
Have you seen the colour of the oil after the 1000 mile run-in period? It was almost crystal clear still on my gr86, looked like it'd just come out the bottle. I'm pretty sure they don't put special run-in oil in the engine for the customers, let alone diff/gear oil which are due to last 10s of thousands of miles. Whether they do at an early point of the build I couldn't say.
Yes, engine oil clean as to be expected. This is not my reason for the oil change. I want to know that once run in has been carried out, I replace with an optimum specification oil.

I agree, Toyota won't send these with an engine oil spec specifically for run in, but I also know it isn't an optimum high performance oil.

I think it's also important to bear in mind that all car manufacturers consider how service/running costs can affect a buyers decision. Extended service intervals obviously help in this respect. This is not necessarily the best strategy for mechanical durability.

Oils are the life blood of an engine or transmission. I want to know exactly what oils go in my car, and I don't want to wait 12 months and X miles before doing this. I have 35 years in the motor trade/automotive tuning business and I have first hand experience of the benefits of using high quality oils and regular oil changes. This is why I also make these recommendations to my customers.
 
I think it's also important to bear in mind that all car manufacturers consider how service/running costs can affect a buyers decision. Extended service intervals obviously help in this respect. This is not necessarily the best strategy for mechanical durability.

Don't Porsche recommend servicing some 911s every two years? You'd think of all car buyers, Porsche buyers are going to care less about how often their car requires a service, as they've got more money than most. You'd also think that Porsche aren't going to risk their prestigious cars being damaged due to a lack of maintenance. Which suggests that it's ok for some cars to go longer between services.
 
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