GR Yaris Air intake

I got a quote for printing Helmut Eder’s HelScoop #3 (3rd revision - scoop only)

Printed in PETG - £216 all in. Thought it was a bit pricey but I suppose the £400 Forge Motorsports one is the only other alternative.

Expensive ! If you want the one who fits on the Stock Air Box you can get one for €50 😙😄 You can always ask for free!
 
My PETG printed Parts don't change their Form in the last 18 Month! 😄😄
18 months, while a good time, isn't anywhere near the liftime Toyota had in mind. So my comment should be seen in ~10 year perspective of possible plastics degeneration and has nothing to do with keeping short term shape.
 
I just installed the Forge carbon intake upper box with filter and the carbon inlet dukt.

First startup after the car had a couple seconds of the hiccups. Was that just random? The turbo intake shouldn’t affect idle? I also felt as though the boost dial stopper a little bit before it used to before? I follows instructions to the point. Everything without anything going wrong. Is it possible to duck up such an easy install?

Hopefully this is just my paranoia and nothing to worry about.

I’ll attach a some a screeny from a video shot by my wife holding the phone inside the steering wheel. The run is done on a closed road to a power plant. Safest I could find and hopefully won’t start a whole thing about reckless driving.

Does the boost dial stop earlier than stock?

IMG_1327.webp
 
I just installed the Forge carbon intake upper box with filter and the carbon inlet dukt.

First startup after the car had a couple seconds of the hiccups. Was that just random? The turbo intake shouldn’t affect idle? I also felt as though the boost dial stopper a little bit before it used to before? I follows instructions to the point. Everything without anything going wrong. Is it possible to duck up such an easy install?

Hopefully this is just my paranoia and nothing to worry about.

I’ll attach a some a screeny from a video shot by my wife holding the phone inside the steering wheel. The run is done on a closed road to a power plant. Safest I could find and hopefully won’t start a whole thing about reckless driving.

Does the boost dial stop earlier than stock?
that reading (@boost gauge) seems as far I've ever seen mine...
PS: mine is stock, with just the front Forge air intake carbon (not the top air box)
 
Thanks! Think I just need some reassurance here. I want to do stuff like these mods but strength after I get a tiny bit of panic. All I need now is for @Onehp to come on and say “It’s all good. Can’t really cuck anything up”
 
Thanks! Think I just need some reassurance here. I want to do stuff like these mods but strength after I get a tiny bit of panic. All I need now is for @Onehp to come on and say “It’s all good. Can’t really cuck anything up”
The Forge Carbon upper box uses a larger diameter pipe where the MAF sensor sits. This sensor is used to calculate the flow of air entering the engine, based on the air speed, air temperature and a known cross section - which you have now changed. So the engine is a ingesting more air than it thinks, making the engine run a bit leaner (=higher AFR) which renders some additional power (=quoted 13hp). The ECU still has the lambda sensor to sense the AFR and shouldn't let it go crazy lean. But still an added risk there.

Just after changing, the ECU might be a bit confused and need to adapt. If it behaves driving more then you shouldn't worry. Personally I would still like to log the engine just in case, but that's me, most probably it's fine.

If you really don't get proper boost past 4000rpm, the vacuum hose to the lower airbox flap is perhaps not connected properly or leaking.
 
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that reading (@boost gauge) seems as far I've ever seen mine...
PS: mine is stock, with just the front Forge air intake carbon (not the top air box)
As OneHP mentioned, IF(?) the MAF tube is of different diameter (in comparison to oem) it may mess things a bit... usually bigger diam will lean-out the mixture and smaller: richer. But the ECU should have ways to adapt after a while.
Regarding the lower-box flapper... mine is removed entirely (including the solenoid vaccum actuator + lower box inner insulation) without any issues.
 
Cheers fellas! I went to get a take-away pizza a bit later. Opted for the pepperoni and pineapples. Pizza did the job. 9/10.

Also the car had no hiccups and it felt like before. Let’s agree the ECU got confused for a second✌️

Cars going for a yearly service on a month. Can ask them to log/check!

Truly appreciate both your insights!
 
Experiencing loss of boost. On second gear acceleration my boost didn’t go past +1 which is a first. Googled the causes and so will check. Maybe I’ve been too careful with the clamps on the hoses. Manual said to not tighten to much to not crack the carbon, but what does that mean exactly. Don’t have tools to see nm in tightening.
 
Great news fellas!! The MAF sensor is held in place by two torq’s bolts. They need to be carefully tightened.

I just checked them today and they were coming loose. So I took a torq-bit and using two fingers tightened them again. On the second bolt the whole mounting cracked and came loose. So either I have superhuman strength or the mountings is way to fragile.

I can’t drive with air coming in after the filter so the car is basically scuffed. Will need to remount original box and return the broken one. Should be a warranty thing, right?
 
Great news fellas!! The MAF sensor is held in place by two torq’s bolts. They need to be carefully tightened.

I just checked them today and they were coming loose. So I took a torq-bit and using two fingers tightened them again. On the second bolt the whole mounting cracked and came loose. So either I have superhuman strength or the mountings is way to fragile.

I can’t drive with air coming in after the filter so the car is basically scuffed. Will need to remount original box and return the broken one. Should be a warranty thing, right?
That is not great news. Is your name Thor by any chance?
 
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