GR Yaris Air intake

Helmut Eder said:
I do not know and i haven't heard from other what Parameter they use for their Print. That's essential, but everyone who have enough Skills/Experiences
in 3D Printing know what Values are to use. Nevertheless here my Hel'Scoop after 18 Month without removing from the Car made from PETG. Look
at the Description for my Parameter i use.

About Material. You can use every Material except PLA. Every other Material have a higher melting Temperatur as PETG (75). You can
use ABS, Nylon or Carbon - its depending what Equipment you have...

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It’s not entirely true though as not all PETG is the same. It’s also a Heat Deflection Temperature not a melting temperature, the plastic is soft at engine bay temperatures especially when driving hard on a hot day and any engine movement could provide enough force to deform the plastic.

I used PETG for my intake development and quickly learned that engine bay temps would reach 70+C which leaves zero headroom for the part to not deform, that’s even in Scotland where we rarely see 20+C ambient temperatures. ABS would be fine, carbon-PET is even better as it’s a lot more dimensionally stable and has a HDT of around 200C, in fact I’d recommend that over nylon or PA6/PA12-CF due to the lower hygroscopic nature of the PET. I would definitely recommend avoiding PETG as a couple of degrees C difference is the difference between a deformed part and one being fine.
 
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Helmut Eder said:
Expensive ! If you want the one who fits on the Stock Air Box you can get one for €50 😙😄 You can always ask for free!
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Hi @Helmut Eder
as it’s not possible for me to write you a PM:
I’m from the rhine bay area in germany und would really really like to have a Hel’s scoop :cool: can you help me out with a printer/supplier? I’d be very pleased to hear from you. Thanks in advance!

Cheers, CrUzO
 
p3.auto said:
The engine bay gets VERY hot especially with no passive cooling and sitting in traffic. I added large RSIC6 bonnet vents and my IAT's dropped to 45-50C in 20C ambient even with an open cone filter

An intake won't do a huge amount for IAT's, Eventuri's testing showed that even with a double digit diference in IAT's before the intercooler there was only 3-4C difference after the intercooler which won't be noticeable. You'd only really see a benefit when you raise boost levels and heat and even then a better intercooler will do more. Again with an open cone and the bigger Airtec intercooler I see IAT's about 10-15C above ambient when moving which is fine
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Old post response. I just want to point out that even if you have enough speed in your driving so that the IC can get charge CACT temps into the engine closer to ambient, a high/very high IAT does hurt turbo compressor efficiency a lot, meaning the turbo will need to spin faster to make the same boost, meaning that you'll still lose power due to the wastegate being more closed and giving more backpressure and also higher risk for the ecu capping the boost. On top, the higher turbo rpm means more lag. All in all, IAT is relevant even if IC efficiency is high - but that will obviously collapse sooner as soon as there is not enough speed/airflow to cool the IC. Which slightly ironically may be a bigger issue in enthusiast road driving where speeds are capped and stops more frequent.
 
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CrUzO said:
Hi @Helmut Eder
as it’s not possible for me to write you a PM:
I’m from the rhine bay area in germany und would really really like to have a Hel’s scoop :cool: can you help me out with a printer/supplier? I’d be very pleased to hear from you. Thanks in advance!

Cheers, CrUzO
Click to expand...

I'm working on it. Takes another Day or two.

Will contact you if ready.
 
Onehp said:
Old post response. I just want to point out that even if you have enough speed in your driving so that the IC can get charge CACT temps into the engine closer to ambient, a high/very high IAT does hurt turbo compressor efficiency a lot, meaning the turbo will need to spin faster to make the same boost, meaning that you'll still lose power due to the wastegate being more closed and giving more backpressure and also higher risk for the ecu capping the boost. On top, the higher turbo rpm means more lag. All in all, IAT is relevant even if IC efficiency is high - but that will obviously collapse sooner as soon as there is not enough speed/airflow to cool the IC. Which slightly ironically may be a bigger issue in enthusiast road driving where speeds are capped and stops more frequent.
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Interesting you say this, this is exactly the issue I had last weekend at Time Attack, I packed the intercooler spray with ICE and it kept the CACT down but the intake was well over 30C I think 38C was the lowest when on the track. My speeds were up to 10kph down on previous years.
 
sanjay said:
Does the MST air filter, affect the warranty if you fit it with the Toyota service plan?
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I asked my local toyota dealer questions, they checked and came back a couple days later with answers, a resonated exhaust ( milltec) will not affect the warranty however induction modifications will invalidate engine warranty.
 
MarkoS said:
I use @Helmut Eder 's scoop and very happy with it!
View attachment 17483
He kindly shared the 3D file, so everyone can print it locally.

Pros:
- keep stock filter
- keep stock MAF tube
- much cooler air getting in the engine at low speeds
- cheap
- choose colors
- WHOOOSH & PSSSSST

Cons:
- requires "post processing" after printing to make it look better and smoother for even better air flow
- would be nice to add a "plug" for flap vacuum hose in the design
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do you have sound videos?
and theres a link for purchase?
 
Because of: View attachment 17483

If you don't have any Mods, the driving Noise will be a little duller and more pithy, giving you 1-2 HP more Power. If you have a Tuning Box that can handle the additional Airflow (maybe DTUK v2) or an ECU Remap, you can expect up to 10 HP more Power - measured with Insoric.
 
Does anyone know about the gazoo snorkle? I know it's expensive but does it actually make any difference?
 
For those who wonder what this snorkel is😅


IMG_20240525_144704.webp
 
Will we see the price for that come down now it’s a standard part on the new cars? Will mean it’s able for direct purchase in country instead of relying on import parts.
 
Ecsrobin said:
Will we see the price for that come down now it’s a standard part on the new cars? Will mean it’s able for direct purchase in country instead of relying on import parts.
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Very likely can be sourced easily due to the mk2…not sure neither about the price nor the gains (there may be some though). A forge conduct looks like a better deal for similar money.
 
Hi all,

Recently bought a used MST Intake V1 and managed to install it keeping the stock back tube (so installed mushroom filter with housing and the long tube from MST which then connects to the stock tube at the very back end of the engine bay - which is smaller diameter and has the right tube connector to match the 2 diameteres). I also kept all vacuum tubes connected and plugged.

Reason for that is that since I live in Germany and also don't want to void the guarantee, every 10k km that I will be doing the inspection it should take me a few mins to take out MST and install stock one (hoping that I never get stopped from police and end up paying hefty fines, but that's another story).

I have to say the sounds are AMAZING, really changes the driving experience well worth even the original price. Did a couple of runs up to 200km/h with and without my DTUK box enabled and didn't get any fault codes. Reading in here it seems I will need to do a few hundred kms to see if everything works ok, right ?

And another question: any issue by keeping the stock back tube in terms of operations, flow, etc and not using the one supplied from MST ?

TIA
 
DraPPer said:
And another question: any issue by keeping the stock back tube in terms of operations, flow, etc and not using the one supplied from MST ?
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I'm also wondering about this. I felt MST back tube had too much air rushing noise, so I tried using the OEM one which didn't have that same noise. I guess it's the resonator doing its job.

Some time after installing the complete MST kit the cold start got really bad, like the engine was about choke itself for a couple of seconds before the RPM settled. That problem went away after swapping to the OEM back tube.
 
ok_end said:
I'm also wondering about this. I felt MST back tube had too much air rushing noise, so I tried using the OEM one which didn't have that same noise. I guess it's the resonator doing its job.

Some time after installing the complete MST kit the cold start got really bad, like the engine was about choke itself for a couple of seconds before the RPM settled. That problem went away after swapping to the OEM back tube.
Click to expand...

Do you have the older style larger filter that they initially supplied, or the newer smaller filter? Because they changed the filter size to help with idling as far as I know.
 
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