GR Yaris Geo fast road help and track set up

[DeanoC]

Or camber bolts.

Yea @lee1563 pointed that out. I ordered some

 

[Bronson]

Just arrived in the post

 

[DeanoC]

View attachment 1587

Just arrived in the post

Excellent. I'll be happy with 0.5 degree extra rear

 

[Onehp]

You should get more when lowering, good to have adjustable

 

[Florens]

So I was wondering if there is any type of "consensus" on here regarding a recommended setup for quick road use. I understand that an alignment can be a thing of personal preference, however it would be interesting to know if we've found a "recipe" yet.
I would love to optimize turn in and of course grip without making the car too twitchy to trust on a public road.
Any advice would be appreciated!

 

[GRWTF]

So I was wondering if there is any type of "consensus" on here regarding a recommended setup for quick road use. I understand that an alignment can be a thing of personal preference, however it would be interesting to know if we've found a "recipe" yet.
I would love to optimize turn in and of course grip without making the car too twitchy to trust on a public road.
Any advice would be appreciated!

You could try the below, take it easy and work your way up as this will be a relatively dynamic change depending on what you are used to.
Front: -3, 1mm toe out
Rear: -2, 1mm toe out

 

[Michael Knight]

You could try the below, take it easy and work your way up as this will be a relatively dynamic change depending on what you are used to.
Front: -3, 1mm toe out
Rear: -2, 1mm toe out

Rear toe out not first thing to recommed.
I would first go with that -2 neg front camber and little toe out(?) if prefers better turm in.

Then after that you can add more front and rear camber if needed and go towards more aggressive geo.

Fast road = less aggressive than fast track.
I prefer quite neutral handling on road just to have more options if needed. Too aggressive geo can get you into places we have seen few times - GR is already quite quick in its turns if it wants to so no necessarily need to overplay that part.

 

[Phil1291]

You could try the below, take it easy and work your way up as this will be a relatively dynamic change depending on what you are used to.
Front: -3, 1mm toe out
Rear: -2, 1mm toe out

Highly recommend -3 camber and 1.0mm toe out at the front.
That transforms the car.
Camber difference between front/rear shouldn‘t be more than 1 degree, so -2 camber at the rear is recommended.

Toe out at the rear if you prefer a lively car.
Toe in at the rear if you prefer a more stable car.

 

[GRWTF]

Rear toe out not first thing to recommed.
I would first go with that -2 neg front camber and little toe out(?) if prefers better turm in.

Then after that you can add more front and rear camber if needed and go towards more aggressive geo.

Fast road = less aggressive than fast track.
I prefer quite neutral handling on road just to have more options if needed. Too aggressive geo can get you into places we have seen few times - GR is already quite quick in its turns if it wants to so no necessarily need to overplay that part.

Alignment is not an exact science

 

[lee1563]

I went 2.8 on the front with straight toe and 2.2 on the rear with 2mm total toe in on the rear. Will report back once I have put some miles on!

 

[arnies_gr]

I have tried 2.5, 3 and 4 deg front camber with 1mm toe out. Then had stock camber and now 2.5deg with toe in and straight toe. Most of the time I had stock suspension but now coilovers 12kg f&r.

1. 4deg on track I found I wasn't using outside edge and to much wear inside so I will drop to 3.5deg with toe out increased from 1mm to 1.6-1.8mm. Also to much camber I felt effected braking performance.

2. With straight rear toe and 2.5deg under heavy braking rear end was wondering alot side to side. Also rear end slides to easy on track (180kph main straight heavy brake into 140kph first corner) car to unsettled just wants to slide. Also had more outside tire wear then inside. So I will increase to 3deg and 1.4-1.6mm toe in.

3. For daily fast road as others have said before I'd comfortably go 3deg front 2.5deg rear 1 to 1.4mm toe out front, 1 to 1.4mm toe in rear.

 

[Elke]

Did alignment today. Stock suspension.

Front camber -2°10'
Front toe in total 0.3mm
Rear camber -1°40'
Rear toe in total 1.6mm

After a short drive feels nice on the street - has lots of grip (doesn't feel as if the edges of the tyres are being chewed up), mostly neutral with very slight and easily predictable/controllable lift-of-oversteer. Feels safe and confidence assuring. 7000km European road trip (Nürburgring, Alps, Tuscany) coming up at the end of May

 

[peeler]

Not sure what mine is, String Theory set it up with corner weight and Ohlins

Feels great now

 

[bl88coe]

Anybody got suggestions for caster settings? My inner front tyres have worn heavily compared to the rest of the tyre and have been told caster has the most effect on this. I have a caster kit ready to be installed. Currently running -2.5 camber on the front and have done for the past 2 years. I also have some rear camber bolts and -25mm whiteline springs so will be getting them all fitted together.

 

[Spirited]

Anybody got suggestions for caster settings? My inner front tyres have worn heavily compared to the rest of the tyre and have been told caster has the most effect on this...

With reference to excessive wear at inner front, I would start by checking toe rather than caster settings.

 

[Spirited]

Ok, to wrap this up, here is my 'recommendation*' for fast road geo and some track use on a otherwise stock car, based on following most threads on geo and being extra sensitive on reports on stability. And my own experience as a chassis engineer/driving enthusiast with my car and fairly provocative driving on balance...

Max 2,5 degree neg camber front and slight toe out front. Stock geo rear (have it checked too!).
Or bit more conservative, one one dot camber bolt maxed out in front, giving 2,2-2,3 deg neg front. For nordic winter tyre use in the mix, change toe front to toe-in.

I have in particular the reports from @Lauren in mind who reported regular oversteer at speed on track. This was with 2,5 neg camber front and (unintended) toe out in the rear. This is for one turn. Make that a quick left-right or even a left-right-left at speed, and I'd say my recommendation is already quite aggressive for safe road use...

*no implied warranties, at your own risk etc

Time has passed since this post and we have experienced/learned more. I believe you have flirted with settings towards -3 neg camber front and may have reevaluated what constitutes safe.

Is this (ie your original post) still your recommendation for fast road geo and some track use on a otherwise stock car?

Also, what's your recommendation for rear toe with such a setup, please?

... 3. For daily fast road as others have said before I'd comfortably go 3deg front 2.5deg rear 1 to 1.4mm toe out front, 1 to 1.4mm toe in rear.

Are these toe figures for each side or total toe, please?

 

[GRgrampa]

Anybody got suggestions for caster settings? My inner front tyres have worn heavily compared to the rest of the tyre and have been told caster has the most effect on this. I have a caster kit ready to be installed. Currently running -2.5 camber on the front and have done for the past 2 years. I also have some rear camber bolts and -25mm whiteline springs so will be getting them all fitted together.

Caster is not going to wear the inside of your tyres and since it is not adjustable as standard, unless you have adjustable top mounts fitted it is most likely to still be as it was set by factory.

As has been suggested,start by checking the toe settings.

 

[Onehp]

Time has passed since this post and we have experienced/learned more. I believe you have flirted with settings towards -3 neg camber front and may have reevaluated what constitutes safe.

Is this (ie your original post) still your recommendation for fast road geo and some track use on a otherwise stock car?

Also, what's your recommendation for rear toe with such a setup, please?

We have recently had a few big offs on track with totalled cars. I wonder if aggresive geometry plays a role in any of them...
Yes I'm personally running almost 3 degree neg camber in front but also running lower grip tyres and acutely aware of possible lively rear end in high speed evasive manuevers.

My "recommendation" remains and is perhaps a bit conservative, same time I know a few running 2,3-2,5 and are happy.

Rear recommendation is stock, ie. mid of OE approved geo range.

 

[Michael Knight]

I'm having currently following setup, and it is quite tossable (slides easily). Changed the car's characteristics much more lively and so far happy with it.
Though have only driven with Studdless winters in medium to low traction roads (winter conditions) so summer spec needs to be iterated if necessary.
I like to have my oversteer controlled, so that car does not have understeer but it turns in nicely. Have had few times little bigger oversteer due to lift off mid corner but this was mostly due to very slippery conditions (slush). Both my toe's front and rear were really off the spec so getting the car within the spec already makes it better..

as @Onehp says do small changes and check how it works.

Copied from @DeanoC from the other side
Front toe out 14minutes
rear toe in 14 minutes

front camber with one dot bolt maxxed out.

Stock suspension, mostly driven fast gravel road.
Lithium battery so car's rear is 16kg lighter than stock (making it more tail happy).

View attachment 1561

my current geo. Not sure about the "fast" part but try get a setup that works both road and track.
now same set up with added caster.

 

[LittleMav]

Highly recommend -3 camber and 1.0mm toe out at the front.
That transforms the car.
Camber difference between front/rear shouldn‘t be more than 1 degree, so -2 camber at the rear is recommended.

Toe out at the rear if you prefer a lively car.
Toe in at the rear if you prefer a more stable car.

Hi @Phil1291 ,
Sorry to bother you with a question on an old post, but is -3 / -2 Camber your recommendation with stock suspension or with an aftermarket one? Thanks!