Sekred
Totally Hooked
- Dec 18, 2021
- 472
- 603
GR Yaris Are these engines really this fragile?
- Thread starter 6mt
- Start date
Interesting.
My take per the below is the improvement in aged oil LSPI protection is the only large difference, which then begs the question, when is oil considered "aged"?
tonic
Totally Hooked
- Aug 31, 2023
- 215
- 693
An increase in wear metals in the oil, such as iron and copper, which are strong oxidizers, raises the probability of LSPI.
A decrease in zinc and molybdenum (ZnDTP and MoDTC), which are anti-oxidants, has a similar effect.
I’m not sure about the exact threshold, but I believe that as long as you change your oil at reasonable intervals, everything should be fine
Every 3,000km, Engine oil and gear oilAn increase in wear metals in the oil, such as iron and copper, which are strong oxidizers, raises the probability of LSPI.
A decrease in zinc and molybdenum (ZnDTP and MoDTC), which are anti-oxidants, has a similar effect.
I’m not sure about the exact threshold, but I believe that as long as you change your oil at reasonable intervals, everything should be fine
Thank you everyone for the help in letting me understand the problem more and more.
I also found some good YouTube videos that help explain it a bit.
I have found one video with a video section that I found especially good in helping to understand why to use 0W20 and not 5W30 (without even naming viscositys):
(section ends at 4:32)
On top of that, @tonic wrote here:
To reduce the LSPI risk even more, the piston rings need to be able to scrape off the oil, back down into the oil pan.
With thicker oil (like 5W30), there could be some spots left that ultimately lead to a LSPI scenario due to Oil + Fuel + Air mixture and then kaboom.
Yea... I'll think I go with the Ravenol DFE 0W20...
I also found some good YouTube videos that help explain it a bit.
I have found one video with a video section that I found especially good in helping to understand why to use 0W20 and not 5W30 (without even naming viscositys):
(section ends at 4:32)
On top of that, @tonic wrote here:
To reduce the LSPI risk even more, the piston rings need to be able to scrape off the oil, back down into the oil pan.
With thicker oil (like 5W30), there could be some spots left that ultimately lead to a LSPI scenario due to Oil + Fuel + Air mixture and then kaboom.
Yea... I'll think I go with the Ravenol DFE 0W20...
Michael Knight
Totally Hooked
Thank you everyone for the help in letting me understand the problem more and more.
I also found some good YouTube videos that help explain it a bit.
I have found one video with a video section that I found especially good in helping to understand why to use 0W20 and not 5W30 (without even naming viscositys):
(section ends at 4:32)
On top of that, @tonic wrote here:
To reduce the LSPI risk even more, the piston rings need to be able to scrape off the oil, back down into the oil pan.
With thicker oil (like 5W30), there could be some spots left that ultimately lead to a LSPI scenario due to Oil + Fuel + Air mixture and then kaboom.
Yea... I'll think I go with the Ravenol DFE 0W20...
not sure if thats so black and white, as certain 5w30 has more or less same viscosity in 90'C what 0w20 has in 80'C. but choose your oil grades wisely!
Thank you everyone for the help in letting me understand the problem more and more.
I also found some good YouTube videos that help explain it a bit.
I have found one video with a video section that I found especially good in helping to understand why to use 0W20 and not 5W30 (without even naming viscositys):
(section ends at 4:32)
On top of that, @tonic wrote here:
To reduce the LSPI risk even more, the piston rings need to be able to scrape off the oil, back down into the oil pan.
With thicker oil (like 5W30), there could be some spots left that ultimately lead to a LSPI scenario due to Oil + Fuel + Air mixture and then kaboom.
Yea... I'll think I go with the Ravenol DFE 0W20...
There you go !
oec88
Fascinated Member
I use this oil for my car: https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...s/products/mobil-1-extended-performance-5w-30
Engine is in stock form, only driven like 1,500KM or less in 6 months then change to new oil.
5W30 because I live in tropical and hot climate country.
Am I doing it right?
Engine is in stock form, only driven like 1,500KM or less in 6 months then change to new oil.
5W30 because I live in tropical and hot climate country.
Am I doing it right?
Spirited
Totally Hooked
- Jan 23, 2022
- 488
- 503
The limitations of the Relax warranty (5 to 10 years old, <100k miles) with reference to using aftermarket parts & fluids for servicing apply to the UK too.
But what are the changes and new limitations that led you to revert back to OEM engine oil for a car that's still under the initial manufacturer's warranty?
(I understand that Toyota GB doesn't mind aftermarket engine oils, etc as long as these meet the spec set by Toyota.)
Well, in my mind, things can change further, for example ,in Baltics, as far as I know, you have to do the maintenance at a authorised repairer or dealer for it to count at all for example within the standard warranty period, I better not risk it on account of oil, we shall see, 1700 km left for me till first real maintenance of 10000 km.
I use this oil for my car: https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...s/products/mobil-1-extended-performance-5w-30
Engine is in stock form, only driven like 1,500KM or less in 6 months then change to new oil.
5W30 because I live in tropical and hot climate country.
Am I doing it right?
The maker advises 0W20 - GF6A whatever climate area. In warmer countries, it's wiser to change oil more often / earlier than specified by maintenance book, unless you have an oil cooler and/or a larger oil sump.
As long as it is API SP, you will be fine. There are some overly sensitive warranty nannies that will disagree however.I use this oil for my car: https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...s/products/mobil-1-extended-performance-5w-30
Engine is in stock form, only driven like 1,500KM or less in 6 months then change to new oil.
5W30 because I live in tropical and hot climate country.
Am I doing it right?
From my (Swedish context) understanding, for relax "10 year warranty" to be valid, one need to service at a Toyota Authorized Dealer always. Eu law says you can service anywhere, and you can, and then your legal warranty will be valid, which is 2/3 years depending on country. Relax isn't a fixed ten year warranty, it's an "extra" warranty you "purchase" once a year every time you service at a Toyota Authorized Dealer, and which is extended up to ten years. Miss one Toyota service, and the warranty is gone as there is no unbroken chain of "extended 1 year additional service induced warranties". This is how I understood it anyway, go check the terms fine print, may vary per country.
This doesn’t mean that this will be applied so strictly and this again can vary per country.
With the above, you can still change oil yourself in intermediate oil changes with the correct spec or the actual Toyota Oil, again depending how strict they are.
When significant money is involved, suddenly stuff can get strict...
This doesn’t mean that this will be applied so strictly and this again can vary per country.
With the above, you can still change oil yourself in intermediate oil changes with the correct spec or the actual Toyota Oil, again depending how strict they are.
When significant money is involved, suddenly stuff can get strict...
Last edited:
Mods which aren't allowed strictly speaking.
Also not sure the LSPI failure mode on the GRY is the cold engine scenario, all failures seem related to hard driving with high engine/oil temperatures. So the logic "it's hot I can use higher viscosity" isn't really based of anything as long as the LSPI happening isn't fully understood. If it involves weak piston rings higher viscosity probably doesn’t help...
Best bet is changing oils often. Didn’t the manual state one should change engine oil after a track day??
/One - what am I doing here don't even own a GRY anymore - hp
what's the replacement?
Michael Knight
Totally Hooked
don't use my wording in warranty resoution but I think if you are careful with your car, warm the engine up nicely etc its not that disaster idea to use heavier oil. that being said, it can result in more issues if you floor the car wrecklessly in cold and don't mind chaning the oils. its a system, not a culprit of one individual issue.
LittleMav
Obsessed member
- Jul 22, 2023
- 282
- 478
Still curious/interested and will deffo mis it during the best winter days....- it sticks…..
LSPI_free_+_no_engine_warmup Blue Pill driver+fam car...
Sekred
Totally Hooked
- Dec 18, 2021
- 472
- 603
Defective batteries are a thing, 8 yr/200'000km warranty helps....Runaway, not really...Thermal Runaway?
Now back on topic. Nobody answered if oil should be changed after a trackday acc to Toyota .... And never heard of a G16E-GTS engime going bang during winter ... Or?
