GR86 White GR86 from Singapore

In case anyone RHD looking for a nice place to run wires thru the firewall. This is behind the battery at the left/port (passenger) side of the car.

I used a simple PG13.5 Cable Gland (which means i had to open the existing ~12mm diameter (i estimate, didnt measure b4 i went at it hahah) hole out to 21mm diameter using a step drill bit. Then paint marker the raw edges for some corrosion resistance. The hole exist stock, with a blanking rubber cap.

In the inside of the cabin, the hole is right next to the ac fan blower unit and behind some sound insulation (which a pen knife makes quick work of). Also you will need to remove the glovebox to see all these (photo was taken without the glovebox).

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Bonnet Louvers. Yes i know its "ricey" (and bloody stupid to cut into a new bonnet). But thats my next project for the GR86!

Did some modelling and CFD optimisation and compiled some pretty screenshots for your reading pleasure as attached. Will be fabricating the louvers soon, then all thats left is taking a grinder to the bonnet. at least its thin and aluminium and with some touch up paint, shouldnt be as bad as compared to if it was a steel bonnet. Wun be installing any louver when all the cars are EVs so its now or never hhahaha.

(Yes its narrow and short and probably useless. The best louvers are the big proper ones from companies like Verus and Race Louvers etc. But it has always been in my bucklet list to design and install a bonnet louver! so what the heck! plus I had an evo and a FSTI and WSTI previously so i am no stranger to holes in bonnets hahaha)

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Some fun with stickers!
1. 12v socket replacing the useless coin holder and my cruise control and instrument cluster control.
2. Horn button on my Momo.
3. Horn button for the missus (she likes to lean over and horn a**holes cos i more the flashing type, so she gets one herself).
4. Super useless label to show my battery where the wire ingress is for the WB02 and Oil Press.

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12v socket at center console. Thought i post here also since i posted it on the other forum on request.

Design is here. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5948090

Socket is this or similiar. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mK5byJ4

Some hastily written instructions attached. It will all make sense and is straightforward enough when you take the center console out. As for power, you can use an add-a-circuit on the interior fuse box to tap off the heated seats fuse (#27) or else do a splice off the original cables going to the in-glovebox original 12v socket.

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So. Next mod on the list is getting some carbon synchros from Synchro-Tech. https://sync-trans.com/products/syn-gt86-frs-brz-gt86-pro-series-carbon-synchro-set

Got me wondering if these previous gen synchros can fit the current gen. So i went thru the Subaru parts manual and correlated all the part numbers for a 2014 2019 and 2022 brz. See attached. Green are where there are changes in the 2022 vs the previous.

Seems like the marketing materials were true. They did "strengthen" (i hope) some gears to take the more torques from the 2.4L. And of cause the 4th gear synchro is now carbon.

Seems like the synchros are the same. Yay! I probably will change only the irritating 2nd gear (and 1st too, since they are taken out effectively together), and maybe the 6th gear cos its the outer most synchro and easily accessible.

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The Aisin AZ6 box out of the old car was rated to 250NM. With the extra torque from the 2.4 that puts it bang on its design limit, so I'm not surprised that they beefed it up a bit.
 
Oooooohhhh I like that! The glovebox delete looks like it has freed up a lot of legroom for any passengers behind!
Hahah thats the goal. But honestly, effect is less than i expect. Mainly cos the original glovebox is actually quite shallow. But every bit counts hahah. Anyway, moving on to other things now!
 
Installed a 4.556 cusco final drive (ie 10% shorter) and installing this 10% taller 6th gear when it reaches ( , yes thats actually my exact one!) so i zero out the change at highway!

Also, AP sprint kit went in (pre burnished rotors really look sooooo good hahaha).

Also, BRZ alu knuckles (and took the opportunity to ARP stud them beforehand) and BRZ steering tie rods (cos the stock toyota ones have too short studs since the alu knuckles are thicker). Also due to the thicker knuckle, the stock toyota nuts that secure the lower arm to the knuckle cannot sit low enough to allow the pin to go thru, so i used a toyota castle nut instead.

2022 brz front knuckle left. 28311CC010
2022 brz front knuckle right. 28311CC000
Hub bearing bolts. 28376SJ000
Hub bearing. 28373CC000
BRZ Tie rod end right. 34161CC000
BRZ Tie rod end left. 34161CC010
Toyota castle nut. 90171-12002

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Installed a 4.556 cusco final drive (ie 10% shorter) and installing this 10% taller 6th gear when it reaches ( , yes thats actually my exact one!) so i zero out the change at highway!

Also, AP sprint kit went in (pre burnished rotors really look sooooo good hahaha).

Also, BRZ alu knuckles (and took the opportunity to ARP stud them beforehand) and BRZ steering tie rods (cos the stock toyota ones have too short studs since the alu knuckles are thicker). Also due to the thicker knuckle, the stock toyota nuts that secure the lower arm to the knuckle cannot sit low enough to allow the pin to go thru, so i used a toyota castle nut instead.

2022 brz front knuckle left. 28311CC010
2022 brz front knuckle right. 28311CC000
Hub bearing bolts. 28376SJ000
Hub bearing. 28373CC000
BRZ Tie rod end right. 34161CC000
BRZ Tie rod end left. 34161CC010
Toyota castle nut. 90171-12002

@Jianlun some good unsprung weight savings.
Did you see Subaru have went with the steel knuckle on the new ts due to flex in the aluminium one?

 
@Jianlun some good unsprung weight savings.
Did you see Subaru have went with the steel knuckle on the new ts due to flex in the aluminium one?


(Its in lb cos most of the weight info are dug out from US forums)

Before
Stock 18" Wheels + Tyres: 43.1lb (Stock 18" wheel + tyre)
Stock Calipers: 7.8lb
Stock Rotors: 17lb
Steel knuckles: 12.4lbs
Total: 80.3lb

After
TC105n 17x8: 15lb
215/45R17 tyres: 22lb
AP Sprint calipers (CP8350): 5.4lb
AP Sprint rotor (CP3862 ie 299mm): 12.2lb
Aluminum Knuckles: 9lbs
Total: 63.6lb

So thats 16.7lb ie 7.5kg less per corner. Or in other words 63.6/80.3=80% ie 20% less.

I going to conveniently assume that subaru ia changing to the iron knuckle due to brembo fitment issues and to just be identical to the gr86 Trueno for marketing reasons. The iron knuckle may be stiffer due to metallurgy but i feel the difference is small as the alu knuckles look well engineered with thick flanges and proper reinforcement webs. Plus i dun have rose joints and 30 profile tyres so whatever flex i feel (if i can feel any at all hahah) wun be from the knuckles.
 
(Its in lb cos most of the weight info are dug out from US forums)

Before
Stock 18" Wheels + Tyres: 43.1lb (Stock 18" wheel + tyre)
Stock Calipers: 7.8lb
Stock Rotors: 17lb
Steel knuckles: 12.4lbs
Total: 80.3lb

After
TC105n 17x8: 15lb
215/45R17 tyres: 22lb
AP Sprint calipers (CP8350): 5.4lb
AP Sprint rotor (CP3862 ie 299mm): 12.2lb
Aluminum Knuckles: 9lbs
Total: 63.6lb

So thats 16.7lb ie 7.5kg less per corner. Or in other words 63.6/80.3=80% ie 20% less.

I going to conveniently assume that subaru ia changing to the iron knuckle due to brembo fitment issues and to just be identical to the gr86 Trueno for marketing reasons. The iron knuckle may be stiffer due to metallurgy but i feel the difference is small as the alu knuckles look well engineered with thick flanges and proper reinforcement webs. Plus i dun have rose joints and 30 profile tyres so whatever flex i feel (if i can feel any at all hahah) wun be from the knuckles.
Those are great weight savings there. The alu knuckles saved only 3.4 lbs, everything else can be done without changing the steel knuckles right?
Planning other weight saving modes?

How much were the custom 6th gear and the final drive set?
 
Those are great weight savings there. The alu knuckles saved only 3.4 lbs, everything else can be done without changing the steel knuckles right?
Planning other weight saving modes?

How much were the custom 6th gear and the final drive set?
Yup all can be done without changing the original steel knuckles out.

Yeah not much. Its purely unsprung mass so I am just that kind of anal guy (not THAT kind...).

Changed the rear upper control arm to cusco ones. That saved another 1kg per rear corner. Would love to swap to DSS carbon prop shaft but afraid of the hit and miss vibration problems people are having. Other than that, the driver seat is a tillet B5 which i swapped in quite long ago (think one of the first few posts). Will bring over my 4kg antigravity batt from my other car when i finally retire her.

Custom 6th gear set is the equivalent of USD350, from thailand.
Cusco 4.556 FD is the equivalent of USD600, from rhdjapan.
 
Yup all can be done without changing the original steel knuckles out.

Yeah not much. Its purely unsprung mass so I am just that kind of anal guy (not THAT kind...).

Changed the rear upper control arm to cusco ones. That saved another 1kg per rear corner. Would love to swap to DSS carbon prop shaft but afraid of the hit and miss vibration problems people are having. Other than that, the driver seat is a tillet B5 which i swapped in quite long ago (think one of the first few posts). Will bring over my 4kg antigravity batt from my other car when i finally retire her.

Custom 6th gear set is the equivalent of USD350, from thailand.
Cusco 4.556 FD is the equivalent of USD600, from rhdjapan.
Thanks. I got a boxed carbon drive shaft but wasn't aware of any vibration issues with them. Plan was to wait until next year for it.
Have my eyes on the cusco ruca too or I think spl
Don't know if here with UK winters we can use lightweight batteries and not run into starting problems
Would love to hear your review of the gears and final drive
 
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