GR86 White GR86 from Singapore

Jianlun

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Apr 23, 2022
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I installed the Works Bell boss kit. Google told me to torque the center nut to 29 ft lb which was what i did (i usually do two stage, one at 75% of the torque the finally the actual spec torque). I had to install and remove a few times cos of alignment and all. During the 3rd installation, the Works Bell boss kit cracked with a loud bang while i am at 75% torque spec. Believe me it was scary and i tot i broke the steering collumn (hahaha).

So now i bought HKB Boss kit instead and just installed it today. All was good (given i only need to put in once so far hahaha) and i torqued it to spec.

See the photos, the Works Bell boss kit (left) had small machined slots (which doesnt do anything apparently) that reduced the effective thickness/strength (where the crack is), while the HKB (right) was a full beefy circle.

I have nothing against Works Bell and i feel their products are top quality. In fact comparing to the HKB, Works has better finish and have some finishing machinings (maybe because they use a standard blank, which kinda explains the unknown machining slots mentioned earlier ie for other applications) where as HKB felt more raw (basically casted and some parts not deburred).

Works Bell kit is also about 10mm longer than the HKB.

Just sharing here.

Works Bell kit part number = 542
HKB part number = OT273
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Jianlun

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Apr 23, 2022
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Singapore
Bought an Oil Pressure Gauge (seeing all the RTV issues on social media) and an AFR Gauge (really more to accompany the Oil Press Gauge on the dashboard). From Speedhut. With customised gauge face and all. Yes I know I could probably get wideband readings via OBD2 (Torque App etc) but hey its a pretty gauge no? 4 week more to getting them but i attached the artwork here.

Stripped down the interior cos wanted to get to the head unit connectors amd figure out where to tap the Illum and switched power etc lines for the gauges. Some photos if anyone needs the pinout. Looks like a standard 20 pin connector used by Nissan and earlier Subarus.
 

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Jianlun

Obsessed member
Apr 23, 2022
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Singapore
Yet to confirm but i probably going to mount them on a plate that I will fabricate which then goes on top of the speaker grill area. I couldnt find a better location within or near the instrument cluster that doesnt need you to change your focal point too much (i may be starting to get long sighted hahaha) or so far out of the peripheral vision (hey i am a guy, that means no peripheral vision hahha) that it is bordering on useless (or dangerous since you have to actually bring your eyes/sight far from the road).

In track mode you get a nice digital readout of the water temp and oil temp. Or you can select bar graphs for them by scrolling through the different menus.

Will update on the install when i actually get them.

Now working on relocating the steering wheel buttons hahaha.
 

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Jianlun

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Apr 23, 2022
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Just installed the Exedy TF02 flywheel. Internet says its 12.7lb ie 5.8kg.

Stock is 9.9kg (see photo).

Doesnt feel all that much difference to be honest. Driving off/cutch control seems identical (i pair it with stock clutch), doesnt make it any more "stall-able" than stock, slightly more vibrations from the engine when idle.

Screenshot is of me in neutral and clutch in (ignore my non-zero speed), and doing a snap WOT. Exedy TF02 is the lower one.
 

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Jianlun

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Apr 23, 2022
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Couldnt find a nice place, didnt want to break the nice flat center portion of the dash (which apparently was deliberately made flat to give better sight lines out of the cockpit).

So went with a "painless" and "revert-able" install haha.

Also had 2 more criteria:
1. Keep the distance of the gauge dial face and the stock dashboard meter cluster the same distance so the eyes dun have to refocus so much (i feel it, cos i getting old) as i switch from one to another.
2. Gauge must not block view out of the cockpit from my natural position.

Holes in speaker grill are 2mm diameter so just get a small enough screw (i used M2.5) and thats that.
 

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Jianlun

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Apr 23, 2022
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Singapore
Finally finished (somewhat) my steering wheel button relocation. for the Dash control and the Cruise Control. Basically Toyobaru uses an "old-school" resistor bridge, same as the previous gen. Attached are the resistor values if anyone wants to DIY.

I soldered the resistors onto some "brown boards" and made a 3D printed casing and bolted it to the side of the central console tunnel. The leads from my resistor bridge is then spliced into the wires leading from the right side of the steering collumn.

Not sure if the 3D printed box location will fit with the stock seats in, but my Tilletts are narrower than stock so location is perfect. Basically rest my wrist/forearm on the handbrake and "finger" the ummmm... mini joysticks (which are bought from https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32883261199.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802PVPiqb or etc). Hope they last.... Will be nice if someone helps me/the community make a nice PCB hahaha.

Going to make some stickers later.



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Jianlun

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Apr 23, 2022
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Singapore
Added a head unit from Joying. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrnm2Oq https://www.joyingauto.com/joying-l...tion-system-for-toyota-corolla-2017-2018.html
Apparently for 2017/18 toyota corolla or tacoma. Fits that pesky rare 230mm x 130mm cut out on the center console perfectly.

Even fits the brackets that came with the "blanking cap" that came withe the car. Just 2x m5 bolts per side.

Needs a subaru part# H0017VC910 to connect the ant connector of the car to the usual coaxial jack of the HU. I couldnt find that easily so instead i got one for a Nissan (https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKKo3jM). but had to de-pin and change the pin to the other position. As described in https://minkara.carview.co.jp/smart/userid/357539/car/3235206/6752919/note.aspx

For the main connector from the car, its apparently a 20 pin subaru connector used in some foresters (http://ae64.com/20-pin-pinout.htm). So i got a generic connector (https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrakZYm) and just connected them to the correct wires from the HU.

Attached my own notes if anyone needs. Note mine is the RC version of the GR86 so only 2 speakers (hahaha peasant-spec). Note that apparently there is some pinout difference between the 6 and 8 speaker versions of the GR86. pin 12 needs to be powered by ACC for the front speakers to work. as seen in https://minkara.carview.co.jp/smart/userid/2448657/car/3188726/6725137/note.aspx and http://zerogaii.blog97.fc2.com/blog-entry-697.html . i didnt verify or dig too much into that as i didnt need to. just highlighting so that you guys can dig deeper as necessary.

I do not yet have a rear camera, and when i add (use subaru one H0017CC000 as it fits much better than the toyota one), i would need to buy another connector () to fit to the 5 pin connector of the car to get the Reverse signal, to activate the reverse cam mode on the HU.
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Hicko

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Apr 19, 2022
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I wonder if it’s possible, if that holder were wider and ever so slightly deeper (towards the gear shift) would it be big enough as a phone holder 🤔
 

Jianlun

Obsessed member
Apr 23, 2022
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Singapore
I wonder if it’s possible, if that holder were wider and ever so slightly deeper (towards the gear shift) would it be big enough as a phone holder 🤔
Someone in USA managed to make it to fit a small iphone. But as you can see in the photo, the width cannot be much wider due to the mounting points behind.
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Jianlun

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Apr 23, 2022
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Singapore
Added a few more photos. One is of the main horizontal piece of the dash (and my diy hand brushed finish which isnt as brushed as i would have liked it hahaha). The other is a 3d printed piece i did to fit a 12v socket in place of the coin holder (which the base trims get instead of seat heater buttons). Still didnt manage to find enough time/energy to fit the whole dash in haha.
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Jianlun

Obsessed member
Apr 23, 2022
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Singapore
Great work,
Have you gained enough space to have a someone sat in the back with an adult in the front.?
That was the main reason why i embarked on this (and the getting rid of the bulbous protrusion at the head unit area).

But sadly i would say it didnt move the needle as much as i would have liked. Cos the original dash trim at the area near the door (ie left side) remained (else i couldnt nicely blend into door trim, unless i do some old school fiberglass and MDF work, you know... making ICE speaker boxes kinda thing) and that causes the biggest ingress/egress restriction and still does.

It helps if the chair is first pushed back and one sits in and then pushes the chair front, and definately more kneeroom esp if ones thighs are long. But i dun like this 2 step process. I had hoped that the chair could remain semi-front all the time.

Oh well, this probably calls for some sportster CS seats or similiar thin back rest ones. But not going there..... yet.