GR Yaris Retrofit Yaris Cross Headunit - it can be done!

Hi folks, looking at doing this swap myself, been reading up on it.

The one open question seems to be the DCM, and therefor SOS / MyT functionality. Not a deal-breaker for me, but be nice to get everything working.

So the factory DCM (86740-0D031) won't connect to the new Smart Connect head unit is that correct? As the Smart Connect has the flat 5-pin connector which the old DCM doesn't? But all of the old DCM's cables do have sockets in the new Smart Connect, so has someone tried this?

Or what about leaving the Smart Connect's DCM (86740-YP010) connected? Anyone tried that? Does that work if you just enroll it into the MyT app as a new car?
Drop me a PM bud. I have the newer DCM on mine and will try it out at some point!
 
Has anyone got any tips on how to actually do this swap? I had a look and can't work out how to get the bottom part of the plastic surround off to get the unit out, and then it looks like it's held in with allen bolts with epoxy over them? Is this a no-tools job or more difficult?
 
Has anyone got any tips on how to actually do this swap? I had a look and can't work out how to get the bottom part of the plastic surround off to get the unit out, and then it looks like it's held in with allen bolts with epoxy over them? Is this a no-tools job or more difficult?
 
Hello, I have semi-successfully retrofitted 9” 4button Harman headunit to Toyota Auris. I have a few questions, since I have encountered similar problems.
- Is there a solution for the headunit not switching to night mode? I can see that it gets the signal from the car when it switches from DRLs to full driving lights since the 4 buttons are backlit. Do we know what is the issue here? Is it the clock that controls the night mode?
 
Thanks to this thread i changed my headunit too!
Everything the original unit could do, is working fine and even better. CarPlay on a much nicer screen and wirelessly is just perfect.
The clock not working does not bother me and i could even connect the system with my hotspot and update the firmware easily.
10/10 would do again!

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Hey GR_Jonas,

Are the vehicle settings still available after the upgrade?

Thanks.
 
I've just done this in mine and I noticed a few things:

1. Much better sound then the one that comes with the car.

2. However, even if I put the volume on max (30) it is still very low. Low enough so it's hard to hear while driving. Did anyone get that?

3. When I'm approaching or passing a toll checkpoint the connection between the unit and the AA will be momentarily interrupted (the music) and in some cases the AA will disconnect altogether.
I'm in Australia. I'm not sure what kind of sorcery our tolls use.

Anyways, not good enough for me I will be selling and start looking for something else.
 
Yes the volume is quite low even turned up to 30. Installing the Beat Sonic ENA3T3 amplifier has resolved this issue for me and made a vast improvement. Also have after market door speakers and tweeters installed but still sounded low until the amplifier was installed.
 
Looks like the guys on GR-Forum.com have found the issue. You need to move the CAN wires to different pins:
 
I cannot login to that can you also translate?

Thanks
 
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I suppose this is how end result should look like, light green and white wires at the corner of the plug:

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Just dropping by to say thanks for this thread! I just did this swap, including moving the CAN wires to the new pins. Everything is working as expected, and the new unit is far better than the old 2010s-Camry-looking unit that the car came with.

I bought a Yaris Cross head unit from the UK off eBay (86140-YP032) - it cost about AUD500 shipped to Australia. It's now installed into my Dec 2021 first gen GR Yaris.

Re-pinning the middle connector was not particularly enjoyable, working out how exactly the connector comes apart was a bit nerve wracking. For the next person that attempts this - the connector is made of 3 or 4 layers in a sandwich, each row of pins is one layer. Each layer has a collar on the front that must be VERY GENTLY pried off to release the pins, which then slide out the back.

Prior to re-pinning, the vehicle data (fuel consumption) was not present, after moving the pins it became available. So i can confirm that moving the wires does restore at least that functionality. My dash display and steering wheel buttons work normally, but i'm not sure if they also did prior to moving the wires in the connector.

In my car the volume level seems adequate with the new head unit, but i haven't actually been for a drive yet to confirm.

The software on the new head unit seems pretty old, it has a 2023 date. I'll attempt to update it sometime in the next few days.
 

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What tool did you use to release the terminal? The holes for the release tool are really tiny.
 
I tried with various tiny objects and had no success. Removing that collar/clip on the bottom side of the connector (in my middle pic above) allowed the pins to slide out.
 
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