hierros
Absorbed member
- May 17, 2022
- 37
- 35
Normally thats for paperwork, registering the car and all the stuff. My car is physically here but I cant drive away with it because of paperwork too.
GR Yaris Its happening
- Thread starter Sturesmyg
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
Collecting on Thursday. I’m stoked to say the least.
Car is getting rust preventing treatment and ceramic coat thingy at detailer, then handed back to Toyota for the hand over.
Going straight home and installing mudflapz. Hope the install goes smooth and without me drilling the holes to far or something
Car is getting rust preventing treatment and ceramic coat thingy at detailer, then handed back to Toyota for the hand over.
Going straight home and installing mudflapz. Hope the install goes smooth and without me drilling the holes to far or something
Sly
Devoted member
- Jun 23, 2022
- 116
- 60
As long as you don't drill through the bumper into the tyre, you should be good!
- Thread starter
- #24
So I snuck over to the detailer today to see my baby. It’s had its anti rust treatment done and will be ceramic coated the next days. PPF was to expensive and they didn’t have the measurements or whatever for the GR Yaris. I’ll get it home and install mudflapz. After that I will drive it 1k km on B roads, bellow 4k rpm.
In Norway we have 95 and 98 octane. Is it necessary to fill 98, or is that sort of a min/max option for occasional trackdays?
Is there anything else you guys would recommend me doing before the 1 k km of B roads and the harder drives after? I’ll grow into the car I terms if hardware mods, but don’t want to figure out I should have tightened this or filled that to late. Specific oils or stuff like that?
Cheerio!
In Norway we have 95 and 98 octane. Is it necessary to fill 98, or is that sort of a min/max option for occasional trackdays?
Is there anything else you guys would recommend me doing before the 1 k km of B roads and the harder drives after? I’ll grow into the car I terms if hardware mods, but don’t want to figure out I should have tightened this or filled that to late. Specific oils or stuff like that?
Cheerio!
Steve
Totally Hooked
Use 98. Better acceleration, better for the engine (less chance of pre-ignition). Better additive packages, usually.
Tell the detailer to clean the ceramic coating off and apply a matte one. Or just leave it.
Tell the detailer to clean the ceramic coating off and apply a matte one. Or just leave it.
- Thread starter
- #28
I managed to abide by this for approximately 91 km. I’ve had maybe 4-5 accelerations, not suuuuper hard, but harder then I should. And I sometimes overtake engaging boost. Sometimes: a couple times a day. I’m terribleThere are some lines in the manual. Pretty much the same with most other engines.
First few hundreds to thousand km no hard breaking, no hard accelerating. Avoid constant engine speed for too long and better not rev over 4k rpm. So just drive easily on countryside till it's properly run in. Than start to increase load and rpm from drive to drive. 98 or above is mandatory in my opinion to ovoid knock. Take oil with api sp / ilsac gf6 certificate to ovoid LSPI.
Good luck and have fun!
What am I risking here?
foxspeed
Totally Hooked
GRunt
Obsessed member
I just wanted to answer with the optimum for the engine. What every one is doing is upto oneself.
Most modern engines are more tolerant while breaking in. So there could be no big difference. But I will keep to this rule to have the most optimal breaking in. I also prefer to learn a new car before going nuts for the first thousand km. So it's win win.
Most modern engines are more tolerant while breaking in. So there could be no big difference. But I will keep to this rule to have the most optimal breaking in. I also prefer to learn a new car before going nuts for the first thousand km. So it's win win.
