GR Yaris (Gen 2) GR Yaris Mk2 (MY2024->)

Did my second rear diff oil change today after roughly 10k km. The old oil looked pretty rough – really dark with a metallic shimmer, but no burnt smell or big chunks, so should be all good on that front.
Still, after seeing that condition, I’m pretty convinced it’s worth changing the rear diff much more often than Toyota’s suggested interval (40k km 😱), especially if you track the car occasionally.
 
Did my second rear diff oil change today after roughly 10k km. The old oil looked pretty rough – really dark with a metallic shimmer, but no burnt smell or big chunks, so should be all good on that front.
Still, after seeing that condition, I’m pretty convinced it’s worth changing the rear diff much more often than Toyota’s suggested interval (40k km 😱), especially if you track the car occasionally.
That is normal, mine was the same at 20 and at 30, doing 40 k soon
 
Yes I know and the video too. But I want the real one that one that come impress on the part itself without generic numbers or the ones of the website. Even between Amayanma or Yoshiparts numbers are totally differents. The one impress on the part is the good one. Cause I see everyone knows the numbers But nobody can find a single part...
Plus some pictures of the parts is no Big deal to nobody. Just more info for the members.
...have you consider outside a few edge cases the parts aren't in the hands of the public yet? Just give it a few months.
 
I worked with someone who did that in a new Transit.
Fed up with the bonging all the time he ignored it, only this one time it tried to keep informing him 'no key detected'! He left it on site 40 mins away.
Only realised when he turned it off and it wouldn't restart. 😂
After 10,000 km, was it in such bad condition? Strange... did you ask Toyota? Or did they want to do it? Has anyone already issued a recall for Combination Meter Reprogramming?
 
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I noticed the plastic piece there by the gearbox that was slightly raised and when pressed it moved too much and I disassembled it to check... a plastic pin broke where I made the red circle... now I tried to glue it but I doubt it will hold with the vibrations... I will wait a lifetime for the replacement part (360 euros 😱)... I just hope that it is not a design defect and that the next piece breaks too
 
Tokyo auto salon January:

The exhibit is to include several other vehicles, including the currently under-development GR Yaris MORIZO RR and GR Yaris Sébastien Ogier 9x World Champion Edition

GR Parts: Exhibit of "GR PERFORMANCE SOFTWARE" with an expanded Circuit Mode

To be on display in an experience format is "GR PERFORMANCE SOFTWARE", a new GR Parts product that expands the functionality of the Circuit Mode currently installed on certain currently available vehicle models, allowing enjoyable driving that brings out a user's beloved car's full potential in a wider range of situations. A large number of GR Parts, including those already scheduled for release, are also to be displayed, accompanied by reference displays of parts currently under development.
 
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For those who have done multi-map ecutek: at each start-up, does the map set before turning off remain selected?
 
For those who have done multi-map ecutek: at each start-up, does the map set before turning off remain selected?
It always reverts to the same map, map 1, which I assume most will have configured as their ‘default’ map running the fuel they normally use, for me 98/99 RON.

I guess there’s nothing stopping you asking the tuner to put any other map as map 1 though, so you could have the OEM map set as map 1 if you wanted.
 
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It always reverts to the same map, map 1, which I assume most will have configured as their ‘default’ map running the fuel they normally use, for me 98/99 RON.

I guess there’s nothing stopping you asking the tuner to put any other map as map 1 though, so you could have the OEM map set as map 1 if you wanted.
because I wanted to have a "castrated" map made so that when I leave it at the tire dealer, for example, he can't be stupid... but if it goes back to the default, I don't want to have that as the default one
 
Thought it worth an update.

My engine blew up.

Cruising along a dual carriageway approaching a motorway junction, car in front doing 60mph me matching their speed and when he pulled over I started accelerating 3-4,000rpm and it wouldn’t go past that. Ease off just try again and same and realise what’s going on.

However I’m over a flyover nowhere safe to stop so I kept the engine running and bang lots of white smoke a load of metal down the road and I found somewhere in not the safest spot and get recovered.

Engine has a hole in it identical to failures you’ll find over the internet including the Piras video, that a year ago I felt was BS. It’s also damaged the starter motor and transfer box.

The car got dropped off at the tuners and a new engine is going in along with a closed deck and forging to try and stop anything like that happening again, speaking to a friend at the weekend and their friends Gen1 is also at the same tuners getting a new engine for the same issue.
 
Oh shiiiiit! Really sorry to hear this, you must be devastated.

But I hope you don't mind me asking. This was a Gen2? How many miles and what sort of mods did you have?
 
Oh shiiiiit! Really sorry to hear this, you must be devastated.

But I hope you don't mind me asking. This was a Gen2? How many miles and what sort of mods did you have?
15,000 miles Gen2 Auto and every bolt on probably possible other than turbo plus map around 350bhp. However I’m aware this has happened to stock cars so believe that I’ve possibly sped up the bang rather than causing it.