GR Yaris (Gen 2) GR Yaris Mk2 (MY2024->)

GRnewb said:
Had my gry on it’s first service today, and they managed to fill it up with the wrong oil. They used LGMO 5w30 PFE. Got a new appointment in two weeks. Fml 🤦🏻‍♂️
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Surely they can compensate for their mistake by installing your underbody panels for free... ;)
All jokes aside, kind of worrying to read here that multiple dealers are messing this up. Something to be very aware about...

And a new appointment in 2 weeks? Excuse me?! They should have asked you to come back at your earliest convenience to fix what they messed up right away. 😡
 
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YeahButNoBut said:
Surely they can compensate for their mistake by installing your underbody panels for free... ;)
All jokes aside, kind of worrying to read here that multiple dealers are messing this up. Something to be very aware about...

And a new appointment in 2 weeks? Excuse me?! They should have asked you to come back at your earliest convenience to fix what they messed up right away. 😡
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Think I will install the underbody panels myself if they can’t even put in the right oil.

I’m not really using the car right now anyway so it’s no biggie.
 
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GRandemakina said:
I'm always bringing my own jug of oil to the dealership. And they are fine with that...
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What oil do you bring them?

I've always supplied Toyota 0W-20 SP for my services. Once, they raised a "friendly concern" that if the engine ever failed, I'd have to prove the oil I supplied was genuine, otherwise Toyota might refuse the warranty. I told them that wasn't a problem since I can provide oil analysis reports from every oil change - that ended discussion pretty quickly.

Lately, I've been thinking about switching to Ravenol 0W-20. Wondering if they'd have any issues with that. The user manual says any oil meeting Toyota's specs is fine, but I'm curious what the dealer's actual policy is.

GRnewb said:
Think I will install the underbody panels myself if they can’t even put in the right oil.
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Considering that fitting them involves cutting some of the existing panels, asking the dealer to do that could turn into a bit of an adventure.
 
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tonic said:
What oil do you bring them?

I've always supplied Toyota 0W-20 SP for my services. Once, they raised a "friendly concern" that if the engine ever failed, I'd have to prove the oil I supplied was genuine, otherwise Toyota might refuse the warranty. I told them that wasn't a problem since I can provide oil analysis reports from every oil change - that ended discussion pretty quickly.

Lately, I've been thinking about switching to Ravenol 0W-20. Wondering if they'd have any issues with that. The user manual says any oil meeting Toyota's specs is fine, but I'm curious what the dealer's actual policy is.


Considering that fitting them involves cutting some of the existing panels, asking the dealer to do that could turn into a bit of an adventure.
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in theory SP oil isn't good, it should be SP-RC... they put SP in mine too, but they put it in there so if it explodes I'll be pissed off but it's their problem
 
Has anyone ever noticed the pads squealing slightly at low speeds (30-40km/h) on bends, such as roundabouts? I've heard them squeaking a few times, and I just need to lightly touch the brake and they stop... I think they're the rear left ones.
 
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Sterbo said:
Has anyone ever noticed the pads squealing slightly at low speeds (30-40km/h) on bends, such as roundabouts? I've heard them squeaking a few times, and I just need to lightly touch the brake and they stop... I think they're the rear left ones.
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Had this very occasionally, just a pad not retracting fully. Take the pads out and give them and the shims a good clean to make sure they're not getting bound should clear it up. 30 min job.
 
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tonic said:
What oil do you bring them?

I've always supplied Toyota 0W-20 SP for my services. Once, they raised a "friendly concern" that if the engine ever failed, I'd have to prove the oil I supplied was genuine, otherwise Toyota might refuse the warranty. I told them that wasn't a problem since I can provide oil analysis reports from every oil change - that ended discussion pretty quickly.

Lately, I've been thinking about switching to Ravenol 0W-20. Wondering if they'd have any issues with that. The user manual says any oil meeting Toyota's specs is fine, but I'm curious what the dealer's actual policy is.


Considering that fitting them involves cutting some of the existing panels, asking the dealer to do that could turn into a bit of an adventure.
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I can tell you, during regular 3 year 100 k warranty it is whatever as long as spec fits, after 100 k and up to 185 k or 10 years, it is Toyota Dealer supplied oil only to retain Relax warranty, but i am still using only Toyota fluids as i dont get relax warranty unfortunately, so if whatever happens after 3 years 100 k, hoping for goodwill at least...
 
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tonic said:
What oil do you bring them?
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-Last couple of times: Liqui Moly Top Tec 6600 0W-20. which I found around from a reputable source at a reasonable price.
In this case, I'm not very stringent about oil brand/type (as long it meets the "SP"-spec.) - since I run just few thousands Kms every year. - The comment I got (from the Toyota tech last time) is that the outgoing oil looked so clean/golden "it could almost be re-used..." :)
About the "dealership acceptance": I have to say that I have a good relation with them - so they kind of know that whatever oil I bring is (at least) as good as they plan to use. I think they just eyeballed the correct viscosity before pouring-in.
 
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Duke said:
Had this very occasionally, just a pad not retracting fully. Take the pads out and give them and the shims a good clean to make sure they're not getting bound should clear it up. 30 min job.
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So you're saying it's a problem? I just had the service and forgot to mention it 🥲... but why does it only do it when cornering? But I don't quite understand what to do... basically, can you tell me where the pad and the caliper piston slide? Also, I don't know if it's the front or rear... then I wanted to ask: do you do the "technical" checks? They never told me about them
 
janislavs said:
Wait, what?! Now I have to get this thing! All that EU crap doesn't really bother me – I've learned to ignore all those speed limit beeps and I just don't hear them anymore, but that handbrake warning is seriously annoying when you’re trying to have some fun in winter...
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Can't all the speed limit warnings be disabled using the Menu function?
 
Sterbo said:
Has anyone replaced the pollen filter? Does anyone know why there should be a filter case but mine doesn't? Did they forget it in the shop? Or should it not be there? Does anyone care to look? It's simple.
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Changed this the other day. Mine has the plastic case.
 
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Mine is a Mk1. Its not convenient to take a picture.
If your worried about it order the part and fit it.
 
Sekred said:
Can't all the speed limit warnings be disabled using the Menu function?
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They can, however due to requirements in the legislation they will turn back on next startup. So every you have to do a little ritual after starting up the car. Is it that game breaking? No. But it is definitely annoying and kinda dumb, but I got used to it and do it automatically right after starting up the car :ROFLMAO:
 
spectre7 said:
They can, however due to requirements in the legislation they will turn back on next startup. So every you have to do a little ritual after starting up the car. Is it that game breaking? No. But it is definitely annoying and kinda dumb, but I got used to it and do it automatically right after starting up the car :ROFLMAO:
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The difference is ~22 button-pushes vs. just 3.
Each time you start the car. That comes out to ~10.000 unnecessary button-pushes p.a. … Definitely too much for me.

But maybe the EU politicians we’re thinking “whoever can’t perform this complex procedure anymore, either needs to stay in nanny-mode or else give their license back”
Maybe they’re sneakier than we all think?!?
 
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Luckily, there are already control units that fix this... question for the more racing types: pulling the handbrake deactivates the traction on the rear axle, right? Today, out of curiosity, I pulled at a low speed of 20 km/h and noticed that if I pull gradually, it brakes ok and you don't feel anything... but if you pull quickly, I feel a fairly strong tac. Is this normal?! Then I tried several times to understand when it does it, etc., and it also does it at 10 km/h... by any chance do the braking surfaces of the handbrake settle inside the drum?
 
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