Nürburgring trip complete. Car ran faultlessly and sounded great with the Whifbitz exhaust.
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GR Yaris (Gen 2) GR Yaris Mk2 (MY2024->)
- Thread starter Michael Knight
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Kaxe
Obsessed member
The other day, with the car warm, I stopped for about 20 minutes and when I started again (I think) it behaved like a cold start, that is, with a different sound... in fact, I was immediately wondering if the muffler had broken
... we had discovered that in the cold start it keeps the wastegate open to help the cat warm up... so could it be that as soon as it restarts it has the wastegate open for a similar cold start and for those 10 seconds it can't give you full power?Do you still have access to that manual? Does it say how many amps and volts the DAT8 paddles have?You are absolutely correct
From the service manual:
tonic
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One doesn't really need a service manual to answer that one
Paddles don't really have volts or amps, they're just simple switches telling the ECU what you want to do, not miniature power stations waiting to light a bulb. If you're asking about current draw, it's down in the 'hardly measurable' range.
I'd be careful here, if you're planning mods on that assumption, it's a bit like trying to measure the temperature with a ruler. Probably best to get a clearer picture of how the system works before reaching for the soldering iron
because I saw some paddles with micro switches (large ones, for example 250V 15A) and I had a doubt… wondering why they used such large switches if it's not necessary… let's say that I already know how to make the modification and I know very well how to make the connections etc. but I was stuck on the choice of the size of these micro switches…One doesn't really need a service manual to answer that one
Paddles don't really have volts or amps, they're just simple switches telling the ECU what you want to do, not miniature power stations waiting to light a bulb. If you're asking about current draw, it's down in the 'hardly measurable' range.
I'd be careful here, if you're planning mods on that assumption, it's a bit like trying to measure the temperature with a ruler. Probably best to get a clearer picture of how the system works before reaching for the soldering iron
Edit: Some people put the first ones and I don't understand the point of putting them so big, I was thinking about the second ones... much smaller but also with a lower "capacity"
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tonic
Totally Hooked
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In 12V cars you normally won't see more than 12-14.5V on control circuits, so any switch rated for that will be fine. The current flow across the switch is typically only in the milliamp range, so even a 1A switch is more than enough. That said, car electrics can throw the occasional voltage spike above 14.5V, that's why using automotive parts is safer bet as they're designed to handle it.
It's also worth paying a few euros to check the manuals and see how the paddle control circuit is wired. Additional components may be needed to make the circuit work properly. I only buy access to the manuals when I need them.
The circuit works with just 1 of those for each paddle... nothing else is needed, there's no need to check the entire control circuit... I know because someone else did it for me
... I bought aftermarket paddles that work great on my car but I don't like some details, so I took them apart and disassembled them and looked at the components.... Precisely because I don't like the aftermarket ones, I want to make my own... but I was wondering why they used such large microswitches on such low currents... because if I could use small ones, it makes the design easier... but do you think it's better to stick with the larger ones like they did? But I'll try to look at the circuit on the site you gave me, I hope to understand what it's for... 
Edit: I'll explain everything briefly so we can give context to this thing: I have a disability in one arm (I can't move my left arm)... so I looked for a WRC style paddle (you pull to increase the gear, push to change the gear)... but it's not easy to do in such a small space and no one starts making them because it's a niche product... but I found a company here in Italy that was designing them (RSI C6), they made them in 3D printing... problems right from the start, quite hard to press, if you press the paddle on the tip up or down it flexes but you can't make it click (maybe the magnets are too hard for it to be all plastic)... I agreed with them after the summer we would meet to solve it... in the meantime I had another problem, when you pulled to increase the gear, sometimes it blocked and you had to push to make it go back (maybe because of the heat that modified the plastic?!?!)... from there I wrote them a thousand messages and a thousand emails for assistance and to solve the problem but they disappeared... paid (450 euros 1 double paddle)... so for a challenge and out of anger I started looking at how theirs are made and I started designing my own version to then make them in aluminum... and the last unknown that remains for me is that microswitch... they used the big ones instead I wanted to put the small ones to solve the space problems that their paddles have... but I'm not overly expert so either I follow their circuit (which I know works) or I try my luck with the small one...
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Hi everyone, I’m planning to switch to Enkei T6R 18x8J ET40. They don’t come with wheel nuts, so I’m looking at getting Rays 17 Hex ones. Would 31mm length be enough or too short? and how about the spigot rings seems Enkei doesn't have 72.6mm to 60.1mm?
Perhaps an absurd question: could I have smelled the clutch or something else in the automatic car? Yesterday I happened to be in Sport and D and pressed the accelerator three times in quick bursts (as fast as I could, I was doing strange tests in the wet ), and I started to smell a strong odor... but since I was in the middle of other vehicles, including old trucks, I don't know if it was coming from mine or not... isn't the clutch (or lockup) in an oil bath?
), and I started to smell a strong odor... but since I was in the middle of other vehicles, including old trucks, I don't know if it was coming from mine or not... isn't the clutch (or lockup) in an oil bath?
speeddemon666
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I think it came from the front hood because I had all the windows closed and I was traveling at about 50km/h then accelerated to 90... so I doubt that it came from behind... that's why I doubted the gearbox clutches... maybe it could have come from other vehicles, but the coincidence seemed strange to me
speeddemon666
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This may or may not seem fair, but in your experience could you recommend RSi C6?The circuit works with just 1 of those for each paddle... nothing else is needed, there's no need to check the entire control circuit... I know because someone else did it for me
Edit: I'll explain everything briefly so we can give context to this thing: I have a disability in one arm (I can't move my left arm)... so I looked for a WRC style paddle (you pull to increase the gear, push to change the gear)... but it's not easy to do in such a small space and no one starts making them because it's a niche product... but I found a company here in Italy that was designing them (RSI C6), they made them in 3D printing... problems right from the start, quite hard to press, if you press the paddle on the tip up or down it flexes but you can't make it click (maybe the magnets are too hard for it to be all plastic)... I agreed with them after the summer we would meet to solve it... in the meantime I had another problem, when you pulled to increase the gear, sometimes it blocked and you had to push to make it go back (maybe because of the heat that modified the plastic?!?!)... from there I wrote them a thousand messages and a thousand emails for assistance and to solve the problem but they disappeared... paid (450 euros 1 double paddle)... so for a challenge and out of anger I started looking at how theirs are made and I started designing my own version to then make them in aluminum... and the last unknown that remains for me is that microswitch... they used the big ones instead I wanted to put the small ones to solve the space problems that their paddles have... but I'm not overly expert so either I follow their circuit (which I know works) or I try my luck with the small one...
I have seen their products popping up here and there and they look quite good but some are apparently built to order and that occasionally worries me.
Unfortunately, in my experience, no... because unfortunately their products seem good, but I'm afraid customer service is a sore point. I think many people are happy with them, but I (now), no... I haven't received a reply to any messages since June... Judging by the videos of some, the parts seem good and precise... but I don't know... made to order in what sense? That they're not in the catalog or that they're not available?
speeddemon666
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for example, I would have been interested in their intake but today I no longer want it because I then need assistance?
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Don't think I'm crazy, but I'm afraid I've caused damage... yesterday, because of a stupid person (he parked so close to my door that I couldn't even get through)... I had to get in on the passenger side and due to my poor 
agility, I hit the handbrake lever... when I released the handbrake, I noticed that when the lever is released, it moves slightly from right to left... honestly, I've never noticed it before and I wondered if it was doing it before or if I bent or broke something... please, can you tell me if yours moves slightly? When it's pulled, it doesn't move, but when released, it has a minimum movement
agility, I hit the handbrake lever... when I released the handbrake, I noticed that when the lever is released, it moves slightly from right to left... honestly, I've never noticed it before and I wondered if it was doing it before or if I bent or broke something... please, can you tell me if yours moves slightly? When it's pulled, it doesn't move, but when released, it has a minimum movement
- Dec 27, 2021
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I was going to post a video but we can’t hereDon't think I'm crazy, but I'm afraid I've caused damage... yesterday, because of a stupid person (he parked so close to my door that I couldn't even get through)... I had to get in on the passenger side and due to my poor
Mine is an original car and there is a bit of sideways movement - maybe 8-10 mm - if you wiggle it when is is off.
Can’t imagine there’s any huge difference in this part in the facelift though.
Do you have a MK1? In my opinion, the handbrake component is the same... and yes, the movement is more or less the same... mine also has a lateral movement of about 10mm... if I pull it, it doesn't do it anymore... if I can, I'll make a video for you, upload it to YouTube and send you a linkI was going to post a video but we can’t here
Mine is an original car and there is a bit of sideways movement - maybe 8-10 mm - if you wiggle it when is is off.
Can’t imagine there’s any huge difference in this part in the facelift though.
Sorry for the bad video framing but I had to balance the phone on the lever with just one handI was going to post a video but we can’t here
Mine is an original car and there is a bit of sideways movement - maybe 8-10 mm - if you wiggle it when is is off.
Can’t imagine there’s any huge difference in this part in the facelift though.
… anyway this is mine… yes I got dressed for work but I protected the seat with a nice seat condom directly from AliExpress… it works like a charm, I even got the identical steering wheel cover…