GR Yaris GR Yaris and oil pressure (in track use)

has anyone actually gotten a warning for low oil pressure on regular GR Yaris? Noted its said in manual that if low oil pressure emerges,
car should give an audible warning.
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Seems like Lamspeed has now a baffle kit for GR.
Wonder what is the purpose of those rubber(?) pads?
interesting product.

 
Seems like Lamspeed has now a baffle kit for GR.
Wonder what is the purpose of those rubber(?) pads?
interesting product.

Wtac test
 
Seems like Lamspeed has now a baffle kit for GR.
Wonder what is the purpose of those rubber(?) pads?
interesting product.

I'll let you know in a few weeks how they are. we placed a group buy a couple of days ago :LOL:
 
I'll let you know in a few weeks how they are. we placed a group buy a couple of days ago :LOL:
Managed to get also group order in - 4 kits incoming.
oil pressure drop seems to be track dependant but its maybe a good thing to do as we know that issue is there.
at least then you have one issue less to worry when speeding on track.

Interested to hear how difficult the install is, i.e. can it be done in home garage or are special Toyota tools required.
with brief inspection it looks it could be doable at home. wondering what those two larger bolts are under which the baffles mount.
 
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Managed to get also group order in - 4 kits incoming.
oil pressure drop seems to be track dependant but its maybe a good thing to do as we know that issue is there.
at least then you have one issue less to worry when speeding on track.

Interested to hear how difficult the install is, i.e. can it be done in home garage or are special Toyota tools required.
with brief inspection it looks it could be doable at home. wondering what those two larger bolts are under which the baffles mount.
that was our rationale as well (only difference is we ordered 15 kits :D)

Installation shouldn't be much of a hassle tbqh, just be careful when reapplying the sealant around the oil pan to avoid having a gr86 like problem...
 
Unfortunate that tracks are mostly right hand.
 
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that was our rationale as well (only difference is we ordered 15 kits :D)

Installation shouldn't be much of a hassle tbqh, just be careful when reapplying the sealant around the oil pan to avoid having a gr86 like problem...
it would be interesting to hear more of install process. I got all sealants in garage, just waiting maybe little time to get a bigger oil cooler and do them both at same oil drop.
The install instructions didn't look too bad.
 
not sure if oil pressure related but total schade. engine block has totally ripped from sides.

Yikes.

What do we reckon? Must be some pre-det to cause that.

Maybe the offset piston means the con-rod is more likely to get fired out the side of the block, what with the added thrust?
 
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Iirc, there was almost the same issue after money-shifting. Cant remeber who, but the block was torn the same way.
 
Iirc, there was almost the same issue after money-shifting. Cant remeber who, but the block was torn the same way.
yep my totally novice analysis was that he was using constantly rather high revs, so either oil pressure issue or over rev.
Then again, one could think that over rev would cause damage to valve train but in this case valve springs were at least on their place. Valves however had some mechanical damage so maybe they have hit the pistons before actual block damage.
 
not sure if oil pressure related but total schade. engine block has totally ripped from sides.

They say in the video that the ECM is "mapped." Coming off a corner at mid-revs and full load, 99.99% chance it's a mega-knock event, shattering a piston, leaving the rod to beat the hell out of the block. You hear it happen, where the piston goes away, but there's a short time that the rod small end stays in the cylinder. As they keep driving forward, it comes out and you hear it turn into a sledge hammer. We see this play out here, over and over... Always people screwing with the stock ECM.

Stock ECM has thousands of tables. It does really well to protect the engine. I see boost change from 1.8 bar on one pull to 1.3 bar on a different pull, as the ECM changes the target boost according to all kinds of things like IAT, how much load has been applied to the engine for how long, and on and on.

Here's a 2-3 gear pull I logged today with RPM, Target Boost, and Actual Boost. You see it goes to a maximum of around 1.6 bar @ 5000rpm with a commanded target of about 1.5 bar. By 7,000 rpm, the target falls away to about 1 bar, and actual is following, down to 1.2. Easy power gain is simply to change the target boost table to stay at 1.8 bar all the way across the board. Problem is, there are a hundred compensation tables trying to dial it back in, and/or fail-safes that will apply when there's too large of a deviation from target to actual. 10.5:1 compression direct injected turbo engine has a narrow window that it needs to run in and live, and with the stock ECM, that window is always on the move, and no one really knows the whole picture. Solution? Many "tuners" turn off the things that are moving that window around while trying to save it.... :LOL:

Image_20231109-161000.webp
 
They say in the video that the ECM is "mapped." Coming off a corner at mid-revs and full load, 99.99% chance it's a mega-knock event, shattering a piston, leaving the rod to beat the hell out of the block. You hear it happen, where the piston goes away, but there's a short time that the rod small end stays in the cylinder. As they keep driving forward, it comes out and you hear it turn into a sledge hammer. We see this play out here, over and over... Always people screwing with the stock ECM.

Stock ECM has thousands of tables. It does really well to protect the engine. I see boost change from 1.8 bar on one pull to 1.3 bar on a different pull, as the ECM changes the target boost according to all kinds of things like IAT, how much load has been applied to the engine for how long, and on and on.

Here's a 2-3 gear pull I logged today with RPM, Target Boost, and Actual Boost. You see it goes to a maximum of around 1.6 bar @ 5000rpm with a commanded target of about 1.5 bar. By 7,000 rpm, the target falls away to about 1 bar, and actual is following, down to 1.2. Easy power gain is simply to change the target boost table to stay at 1.8 bar all the way across the board. Problem is, there are a hundred compensation tables trying to dial it back in, and/or fail-safes that will apply when there's too large of a deviation from target to actual. 10.5:1 compression direct injected turbo engine has a narrow window that it needs to run in and live, and with the stock ECM, that window is always on the move, and no one really knows the whole picture. Solution? Many "tuners" turn off the things that are moving that window around while trying to save it.... :LOL:
yep, it was stage 2 car so mapped and few hw mods. Stock ECU drops boost request quite a bit after 6k as you described.
Best might be to keep the tunes rather conservative. high boost is nice but maybe requires totally different approach (standalone ecu, custom internals & valve train etc).
there is no cheap mods with GR unfortunately. EA888 was much more easier platform. but, heavy piggies and less fun those cars are..
 
I'm personally also not really interested in going for a remap without at least addressing the valve train. And then it's a case of "while you're in there".. 10k€ worth in Engine mods isn't hard to achieve on this platform.
 
My engine with cam and valve spring with 5/50 oil
Rev to 7700 still have stable oil pressure
But power curve fail way down due to stock turbo
 
My engine with cam and valve spring with 5/50 oil
Rev to 7700 still have stable oil pressure
But power curve fail way down due to stock turbo
How does oil pump perform with thick oil? Must work 2x due to higher viscosity
 
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