GR Yaris GR Yaris and oil pressure (in track use)

Big drops on braking but it last really really short while and that's with no throttle application. Not sure it is that much of an issue ? Given the amount of Yaris being tracked without baffled sump if oil pressure had been a real issue there would be a lot more forum's member with blown engine.

I have a good example of what oil pressure drop & starvation does when it is really an issue. A friend tracked his NB into oblivion until someday he changed from road tyres to semi slick. First round about test with broke-in tyres the engine exploded due to starvation lol.
 
Big drops on braking but it last really really short while and that's with no throttle application. Not sure it is that much of an issue ? Given the amount of Yaris being tracked without baffled sump if oil pressure had been a real issue there would be a lot more forum's member with blown engine.

I have a good example of what oil pressure drop & starvation does when it is really an issue. A friend tracked his NB into oblivion until someday he changed from road tyres to semi slick. First round about test with broke-in tyres the engine exploded due to starvation lol.
I mostly agree - I will likely get baffling installed before my next track day though and will continue to look at trends
 
When you run out of oil under load the engine usually spins a big end bearing.
Anyone spun a big end bearing?
 
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Big end bearing is exactly what happened to my friend engine. Cloc cloc noise ect.

GT86 also fail like that when the oil pump get blocked by gasket paste. Engine starve oil and big end die.

As a result, I really don't think GRY has oil pressure issues.

Cylindre 1 going boom however really shows that you can't afford any bad tuning / fuel or else a bit detonation may happen suddenly which will catastrophically destroy the engine.

NB : If you put 265 slick on the car it is another discussion obviously

@ninjan00dles are there a lot of failure in the US? There's been the two catching fire but after that ?
 
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Big end bearing is exactly what happened to my friend engine. Cloc cloc noise ect.

GT86 also fail like that when the oil pump get blocked by gasket paste. Engine starve oil and big end die.

As a result, I really don't think GRY has oil pressure issues.

Cylindre 1 going boom however really shows that you can't afford any bad tuning / fuel or else a bit detonation may happen suddenly which will catastrophically destroy the engine.

NB : If you put 265 slick on the car it is another discussion obviously

@ninjan00dles are there a lot of failure in the US? There's been the two catching fire but after that ?

The general consensus on the first fire was that owner was trying to get an insurance payout... I don't think that was a legitimate factory issue (in my opinion).

I personally know the 2nd fire owner. I don't think that was a factory defect either, although it was a Cylinder #1 failure. Not my place to say anything more than that. The owner is pretty responsive if you reach out to him. He bought a new Morizo after that incident and runs the full 555 Engineering Cooler Package now, he's been doing a bunch of track days since (including 2 with me) without issue.


Beyond those fires I think I know of 7 other engine failures.

1 money shift on the street (ecutek tune)
1 money shift on track at Thunderhill, California (stock I believe)
3 random failures on street (all ecutek tune)
- some kid on facebook doing WOT pulls on the freeway
- smeedia / youtuber
- youtuber who had a history of a poor tune

I think the above are probably from poor mods/tune or user induced. Also Youtubers are sponsored by aftermarket vendors and have an incentive to break things for content... Unfortunately GRC has attracted a lot of these types in the US market.


The below were both Cylinder 1 failures and I consider a little bit more closely. They both had Oil Coolers and were prepped.

1 track failure on the East Coast (Ecutek tuned)
1 track failure at Thunderhill near me (Ecutek tuned)


Just my 2 cents (pence/yen/euro) - my understanding is early software builds of Ecutek were not great (which is discussed on this forum) and I think its early limitations led to a lot of poor outcomes in the US market. US tuners were either not up front or uneducated about the risk early users were accepting. Overseas you guys tend to go to standalones which are a more robust solution.

On the other hand - it also my understanding, that the most recent Ecutek overhaul was a substantial improvement. So this isn't meant to bash Ecutek, I think it will develop as it has on other platforms.
 
The general consensus on the first fire was that owner was trying to get an insurance payout... I don't think that was a legitimate factory issue (in my opinion).

I personally know the 2nd fire owner. I don't think that was a factory defect either, although it was a Cylinder #1 failure. Not my place to say anything more than that. The owner is pretty responsive if you reach out to him. He bought a new Morizo after that incident and runs the full 555 Engineering Cooler Package now, he's been doing a bunch of track days since (including 2 with me) without issue.


Beyond those fires I think I know of 7 other engine failures.

1 money shift on the street (ecutek tune)
1 money shift on track at Thunderhill, California (stock I believe)
3 random failures on street (all ecutek tune)
- some kid on facebook doing WOT pulls on the freeway
- smeedia / youtuber
- youtuber who had a history of a poor tune

I think the above are probably from poor mods/tune or user induced. Also Youtubers are sponsored by aftermarket vendors and have an incentive to break things for content... Unfortunately GRC has attracted a lot of these types in the US market.


The below were both Cylinder 1 failures and I consider a little bit more closely. They both had Oil Coolers and were prepped.

1 track failure on the East Coast (Ecutek tuned)
1 track failure at Thunderhill near me (Ecutek tuned)


Just my 2 cents (pence/yen/euro) - my understanding is early software builds of Ecutek were not great (which is discussed on this forum) and I think its early limitations led to a lot of poor outcomes in the US market. US tuners were either not up front or uneducated about the risk early users were accepting. Overseas you guys tend to go to standalones which are a more robust solution.

On the other hand - it also my understanding, that the most recent Ecutek overhaul was a substantial improvement. So this isn't meant to bash Ecutek, I think it will develop as it has on other platforms.

EcuTek provide the tool to map the cars they don’t provide the tune, they do update parameters as more is known and unlocked based off feedback but it’s the tuners where the problems of bad maps exist.
 
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Does anyone here have a photo of the oil dipstick when hot with 0.5L more? I had the service at Toyota and when hot I have this level (red line) and I don't know if it's about 0.3 more or too much.
 
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View attachment 38778Does anyone here have a photo of the oil dipstick when hot with 0.5L more? I had the service at Toyota and when hot I have this level (red line) and I don't know if it's about 0.3 more or too much.

I don't have a photo to show, but I add +0.2 liters to the recommended 4.3 liters. when I perform oil change. On the dipstick it shows approx half-way between the max mark and the red line on your photo with cold engine. Hot engine, never checked.
 
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I don't have a photo to show, but I add +0.2 liters to the recommended 4.3 liters. when I perform oil change. On the dipstick it shows approx half-way between the max mark and the red line on your photo with cold engine. Hot engine, never checked.
then they charged me 0.5 more… but I don't understand why and why they don't indicate it on the invoice (the invoice says 4.5l)

edit: this is the level after 5 hours that I turned it off (green line)
 

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If you're uneasy about this overfill, and you want to make sure, you can extract the excess oil with a thin hose secured on a syringe and suck out the oil from the dipstick tube until on the max level of the dipstick, and measure how much you have extracted.
Do this with cold engine, standing overnight minimum. After that, you can decide how much (or not) you want to overfill.
 
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Sorry if i missed it. Does anyone else Oil Pressure gauge fluctuate a little? Only mod is MST v2. Just noticed it recently, unfortunately didn't notice when stock. Never been on track and not driven hard. Just wondering if that's normal? Appears to be making the right boost on the gauge etc. Happy to revert back to stock if needed.
 
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Sorry if i missed it. Does anyone else Oil Pressure gauge fluctuate a little? Only mod is MST v2. Just noticed it recently, unfortunately didn't notice when stock. Never been on track and not driven hard. Just wondering if that's normal? Appears to be making the right boost on the gauge etc. Happy to revert back to stock if needed.
keep watching see get worse, could be just sender unit on the block which would be a cheap fix, good luck
 
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Sorry if i missed it. Does anyone else Oil Pressure gauge fluctuate a little? Only mod is MST v2. Just noticed it recently, unfortunately didn't notice when stock. Never been on track and not driven hard. Just wondering if that's normal? Appears to be making the right boost on the gauge etc. Happy to revert back to stock if needed.

Yes, Oil P fluctuates between idle and as soon as you increase RPM. At idle should be around 1.2-1.5 bars, and when increasing RPM reaches 4 bars. Perfectly normal, especially when oil reaches nominal running temperature around 90-100°C.

Edit : With 0W20 - ILSAC GF6A recommended oil. If you use 5W30 (GF6A), Oil pressures will be slightly different, maybe a little higher at same temperatures.
 
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But with 0.5 liter "extra' oil the preassure stays happy during braking. Its a easy way to scare the driver with a cel and limpmode in the middle of a turn on the track. Tried it once and now I always check the oil level before trackaday. (Like you should if your not an idiot like me.🙄)
I put extra 0.5l oil but I have oil pressure drops from 3.6bar to 1.5bar(around 4-5k rpm) at hard braking with 255/40r17 advan ad09 semi slicks, rest of the car is stock. I didn't get any warning or limp mode so far.

Edit: my car is gen1 my24
 
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I put extra 0.5l oil but I have oil pressure drops from 3.6bar to 1.5bar(around 4-5k rpm) at hard braking with 255/40r17 advan ad09 semi slicks, rest of the car is stock. I didn't get any warning or limp mode so far.

Edit: my car is gen1 my24
I'd advice putting oil pan baffles if you drive any harder with semi's. I've seen no oil pressure dips since installed baffles so much nicer feeling to track the car.
Its not that big task if you know how to remove the pan. The stock sealant is rather tightly glued so proper tools are needed.
 
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