GR86 First oil change (poll)

When will you carry out the first oil change in your GR86?


  • Total voters
    169
Just done over 8000 miles on ours and noticing oil consumption is high :eek: (its making its way to the min level far quicker than any other vehicle I've ever had) Would have liked to have done the change after the break in period but as its a daily & don't WFH very often, trying to get it organised isn't straightforward..
Have emailed a Subaru specialist to quote for an oil and filter change.. Not too keen on sending any more business to my most local Toyota main dealer
(Would fail to organise a p*ss up in brewery levels of organisation)
I recommend going with 5w-30 if you have not already done so. The 0W-20 is not really beneficial if you don’t live in the polar circle. The 5W-30 helped mitigate the oil consumption for many including me. It may still eat oil in high temperatures and during hard driving, but you don’t need to check the oil as obsessively as with the 20 weight oil.

However, you need to keep an eye out. Subarus have a history of faulty PCV valves even in this new engine. Bad PCV valve will cause oil consumption. I would start to worry if you get into >0.5L per 1000km teritorium consumption and take your car to the dealership.

And last but not least… treat the max line mark on the dipstick as the min line. You want to maintain the oil level in this car, especially with the oil starvation issue. 0.5 L above the max line is what many owners run in these cars with no frothing and no bad symptoms. This will greatly reduce the risk of starvation in hard turns and you mitigate the risk of running low on oil, if you experience consumption.
 
What is this new thing about 0W20 oil?
I thought the main reason behind it was because of start stop systems on cars which the GR doesn’t have?

I used to use Titan Pro S 5W40 in my Elise as it was an Ester based oil. Any reason why this would be unsuitable in the boxer engine?
 
What is this new thing about 0W20 oil?
I thought the main reason behind it was because of start stop systems on cars which the GR doesn’t have?

I used to use Titan Pro S 5W40 in my Elise as it was an Ester based oil. Any reason why this would be unsuitable in the boxer engine?
The main reason across the board would be to reduce emissions. Thin oil creates less friction and resistance, which helps increasing power output and reducing overall consumption. Automakers will do everything to reduce their fleet emission. Using a thin oil will have a great effect on the fleet emission/consumption figures.

Anecdotally STI Japan recommends 0W-40 and 5W-40 for the new gen BRZ. I am not saying to run such thick oil… just something to think about.

If you look back in this thread, I have done oil analysis for my used oil if you are interested.
 
What is this new thing about 0W20 oil?
I thought the main reason behind it was because of start stop systems on cars which the GR doesn’t have?

I used to use Titan Pro S 5W40 in my Elise as it was an Ester based oil. Any reason why this would be unsuitable in the boxer engine?
Reduced friction, improved flow and heat dissipation, better cold start performance. Some of the hybrids including the Yaris even use 0w8.
 
I did first oil change at 1300 at Toyota dealer. 1000 was the plan but they couldn't get the parts, go figure.

Second will be at 5000 with FENSPORT.

Third will be at 10000 at Toyota main dealer to keep within warranty.
 
I did my first oil change today at 2k miles. I did want to do it sooner but still glad I got it done early. It's actually the first time I've ever changed oil myself - I'll make sure I have a funnel in future! It takes a better aim than I've got to get every drop into the fill hole. Luckily I put a plastic bag with a hole poked through around the fill hole that caught the small amount of spillage.

I put about 5 and half litres in, which took it over the max line by 5mm or so. The concensus seems to be this is the best way to prevent any oil starvation issues and I've been running it at this level since about 2 weeks after collecting the car.

There weren't any bits of RTV in the oil from what I could see. I didn't see any metal bits in the button of the tub I used to collect the oil either - I didn't open the filter though.

Glad I watched some YouTube videos on it. The paint covered crush washer would have been easy to miss.
 
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Hey Guys,
Quick question to omit creating new thread. Recommendations for 5W30 oil? @unrealpatrik I saw you are running Ravenol?
I'd go for Pennzoil but it's not available in Poland.
Cheers
 
I did mine last night, 110miles. At Snetterton next weekend so thought Fresh oil would be beneficial.

I can confirm "stuff" came out, there were lumps in the previously clean oil pan, I've not looked further to confirm what it is yet. Terrible picture for reference!

One question, I'm doubting myself... Typically Toyota oil filters all come with a plastic wrapper over the business end, and a gasket that is pre lubed for easy install/sealing.

As such when doing the Hilux I never "pre lube" the filter gasket. On my other cars I use k&N filters, I need to put a bit of oil on there as they arrive "dry".

Last night when doing the GR86 I pulled off the wrapper and installed and can't remember if I checked if it was pre lubed or not... Can anyone confirm if it is or isn't?

Genuine Toyota boxed, Subaru filter from Fensport.
Interestingly, I did another oil change before the Spa trip, and the second oil filter was pre lubed!
 
5Hey Guys,
Quick question to omit creating new thread. Recommendations for 5W30 oil? @unrealpatrik I saw you are running Ravenol?
I'd go for Pennzoil but it's not available in Poland.
Cheers
I was running Ravenol... But switched to Motul 8100 ECO-LITE 5W-30. I had great experience with Motul in my other cars and it's priced really good here. Motul also distributes oil to Subaru delaers in the EU.

As long as it is 5W-30, API SP approved and GF-6 you are good to go. Pennzoil is great oil, but is obsolete in the EU due to price.

Ravenol is great oil actually, I just can't justify the price. I will rather run the same spec oil from other brand that is cheaper and shorten my oil change interval with the saved money. However, I really liked the packaging of Ravenol, there is a unique code both for distributors and the end customer to verify authenticity of the product online. But I don't want to pay extra for packaging lol.
 
After noticing oil consumption of the 0W-20 ramp up recently, I have had the oil and filter change done at over 8000+ miles.
Was originally hoping to get it done post run in but life and work (and my organisational skills) got in the way. Then was going to wait for the 10,000 mile service interval but can do that with a dealer at the 12 month mark now and keep the warranty intact.

There is a trip to Spa and the Nurburgring (for some not very quick tourist laps) coming up in May so wanted to get it done before the trip and somewhere that would be familiar with the Engines of Fuji Heavy Industries..

Also the dealership local to me hasn’t been good in terms of service so wasn’t prepared for the we don’t have a filter today / this week etc or the “we are down a technician” which seems to be the permanent default issue that gets blamed for everything.. Especially when trying to get it done during working days and having to sort out transportation to from work (don’t have the luxury of WFH very often)

Anyway have swapped to 5W-30 also. As I didn’t do it myself I didn’t get to see if there was much “glitter” in the oil or RTV but would like to think that it would have been flagged up to me if there was anything unusual.

Some peace of mind that the level is good and it should be better prepared for some mild work at the ‘ring - and the associated heat. Not going to push the standard discs and pads etc too hard, will be going there for the experience this time at least and keeping out of the way of those pushing on.
 
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After noticing oil consumption of the 0W-20 ramp up recently, I have had the oil and filter change done at over 8000+ miles.
Was originally hoping to get it done post run in but life and work (and my organisational skills) got in the way. Then was going to wait for the 10,000 mile service interval but can do that with a dealer at the 12 month mark now and keep the warranty intact.

There is a trip to Spa and the Nurburgring (for some not very quick tourist laps) coming up in May so wanted to get it done before the trip and somewhere that would be familiar with the Engines of Fuji Heavy Industries..

Also the dealership local to me hasn’t been good in terms of service so wasn’t prepared for the we don’t have a filter today / this week etc or the “we are down a technician” which seems to be the permanent default issue that gets blamed for everything.. Especially when trying to get it done during working days and having to sort out transportation to from work (don’t have the luxury of WFH very often)

Anyway have swapped to 5W-30 also. As I didn’t do it myself I didn’t get to see if there was much “glitter” in the oil or RTV but would like to think that it would have been flagged up to me if there was anything unusual.

Some peace of mind that the level is good and it should be better prepared for some mild work at the ‘ring - and the associated heat. Not going to push the standard discs and pads etc too hard, will be going there for the experience this time at least and keeping out of the way of those pushing on.
Good move. I should have done that.

Not done the ring in the '86 yet, but usually don't find it that hard on the brakes, Spa I was beginning to feel a little fade, but nothing compared to Snetterton last month where I properly cooked them. The limiting factor at Spa for me (apart from my own ability and nutters in 911 GT3s) was primarily oil temperature, it was creaping up past 115, - I try to keep it below 110. Next up the factroy tyres started to overheat. That said they were fairly balanced front /rear. It is a beautifully balanced car!

I'd swap out the brake fluid as well, I used the high boiling point Millers stuff from Fensport, might explain why they seemed to last better at Spa.
 
I was running Ravenol... But switched to Motul 8100 ECO-LITE 5W-30. I had great experience with Motul in my other cars and it's priced really good here. Motul also distributes oil to Subaru delaers in the EU.

As long as it is 5W-30, API SP approved and GF-6 you are good to go. Pennzoil is great oil, but is obsolete in the EU due to price.

Ravenol is great oil actually, I just can't justify the price. I will rather run the same spec oil from other brand that is cheaper and shorten my oil change interval with the saved money. However, I really liked the packaging of Ravenol, there is a unique code both for distributors and the end customer to verify authenticity of the product online. But I don't want to pay extra for packaging lol.
I went with Motul 8100 Power 5w30. Step above from "eco" series, below 300V. I wanted 5w30 as a sweet spot for my needs. Looks like a niche product, maybe I'll take it to the lab for testing, how often I need to swap fluids with my driving :)
Thanks
 
I'm enjoying the fact that my new (old 2018) Diesel Volvo V60 and my GR86 take the same oil 😂
 
Hi Everyone,

Subaru has this "flood mode" feature which can be also used to prime the oiling system after an oil change or if your car has been sitting for too long. It will basically crank the engine for 5 seconds without fuel/spark plugs. I don't have my GR86 yet, but I was wondering if someone could try out this feature?

It should work like this:
  1. Press both clutch and accelerator pedals to the floor for MT cars. Or just floor the accelerator pedal in an AT car.
  2. While pressing and holding those pedals, just proceed to "start" your car.
  3. It should turn over the engine slowly for 5 seconds
  4. done
Anyone ever discover if this is on GR86 ?
 
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