GR86 First oil change (poll)

[Triggaaar]

Sorry if this has already been asked in here, had a skim and couldn't see.

How much does it cost to get the oil changed at Toyota? I just asked my local and they said 315 which I'm sure is just the price of a service...

I know I should do it myself given that it's fairly simple on these cars given the filter is up top, but I've never done it in my life and have zero experience jacking a car up (shame I know).

I bought the oil and filer for £60 and paid a local mechanic to change it for me (he actually didn't charge as he's too kind, so I gave him £30). Beats paying £315.

 

[Noel McC]

Sorry if this has already been asked in here, had a skim and couldn't see.

How much does it cost to get the oil changed at Toyota? I just asked my local and they said 315 which I'm sure is just the price of a service...

I know I should do it myself given that it's fairly simple on these cars given the filter is up top, but I've never done it in my life and have zero experience jacking a car up (shame I know).

£315 be complete service. Too much if wanting just oil & filter done before 1 year or 6000miles.

Buy 5 litres of (API SP) 0w/20 or 5w/15 oil and genuine filter and get any mechanic or garage to change them.

Jacking is easy as car is not heavy, look at owners at manual for info.

 

[AdamST205]

Anyone from the first batch request Toyota to fill up the car with 5w/30 at the first service?

This is something that I would be planning to do.

 

[unrealpatrik]

The analysis for my last sample just came in.

3rd oil - Ravenol SFE 5W-20, 1250 miles, hard driving - Wear elements are slightly lower than in the previous sample, which is nice to see, because this sample saw 2 track days and double the miles. However, the wear level is still very high overall. The guy who did the analysis strongly recommended to go with 5W-30.

As for my 4th oil, the Motul 5W30... I won't drive much in the winter, so I won't have any analysis done until like May - June the earliest I think.

View attachment 22243

Here is a follow up to my oil analysis experiments... While 1 oil analysis won't tell you the whole story, it is clear that the wear stabilised.

Key takeaway here is, how the FA24 is harsh on the oil, look how much the oil sheared down in just 3k road miles. This is the main reason why I won't run xW-20 oil in my car anymore... even during shortened oil change interval, your oil could shear down to dangerously low levels. I know it takes double flush to get all the old oil out of the engine, so the low viscosity is partly caused by the leftovers of 20 weight oil in the pan/engine. Also I haven't experienced noticeable oil consumption on the 5W-30, which couldn't really be said about the 20 weight oil.

Sample: Motul 8100 Eco-Lite 5W-30
Type of use: No track days, spirited driving, autobahn runs, mountain runs.

3168 mi / 5100 km on oil
6151 mi / 9900 km on car

Translation of the subjective interpretation of the technician: "increased silicon content indicates a possible dust leak into the oil. Reduced oil viscosity (possible fuel leak into the oil). The values of the other measured parameters are normal. We recommend changing the filter and checking at a reduced interval."

 

[Armijs]

Wrong thread

 

[Armijs]

Double post by mistake

 

[KobayashiMaru86]

So what 5w-30 to go for come next service? Next service will be end of Nov/early December

 

[unrealpatrik]

So what 5w-30 to go for come next service? Next service will be end of Nov/early December

Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30! That's what I run now.

This is the first time ever I want to say that oil change changed the sound of my engine. Whenever I heard someone say that oil change made their car run better I always believed it is a placebo. But in this case I am 100% confident my engine runs quieter and smoother! The first start after the oil change was the quietest and smoothest start I ever experienced in this car.

Objectively speaking, this oil is ACEA C3 that fits cars with GPF/OPF/DPF, has higher HTHS and has Porsche approval. Porsche approval is quite important IMO, because it tests oils in chain driven engines. Oil analyses done on this oil suggest that it really holds viscosity better than other oils.

I was able to get this oil for the same price as the Motul, so why not give it a try...

 

[KobayashiMaru86]

As long as it meets the Toyota/Subaru specs I'll get some for when Toyota do it. I forget what spec it needs.

 

[sim61]

As long as it meets the Toyota/Subaru specs I'll get some for when Toyota do it. I forget what spec it needs.

My research suggests that Toyota oil basically is Mobil 1 with some Toyota specific additives. Is that right?

 

[MorrisM]

Could you tell me the drain plug socket size, and torque for drain plug and oil filter? Will be doing my 1,000 mile change soon. Thanks.

 

[unrealpatrik]

Could you tell me the drain plug socket size, and torque for drain plug and oil filter? Will be doing my 1,000 mile change soon. Thanks.

17mm, 42 Nm for the drain plug. Oil filter hand tight only! Check and re-tight the filter after the first heat cycle and you’re good to go.

Subaru Oil filter, part number: 15208AA170
Subaru Oil drain plug crush washer, part number: 803916010

Edit: don’t forget a 10mm socket for the doors in the bottom engine cover.

 

[GRistopher]

Could you tell me the drain plug socket size, and torque for drain plug and oil filter? Will be doing my 1,000 mile change soon. Thanks.

Maybe you would already know this (I didn't before i saw it in a video) but for the first oil change, the crush washer will look almost part of the sump plug because it was already on there when the sump was painted.

Be sure to replace it with a new one, and not stack the new one on top of the original one that has its outside edges painted.

 

[GRMatt74]

Any reason why Fensport don’t offer any other oils other than 0w20 & 0w30?
Also the millers stuff is ester based so has a far higher shear rate as you are talking about. Maybe this is the part you need when using the 0w oils.

 

[MorrisM]

Maybe you would already know this (I didn't before i saw it in a video) but for the first oil change, the crush washer will look almost part of the sump plug because it was already on there when the sump was painted.

Be sure to replace it with a new one, and not stack the new one on top of the original one that has its outside edges painted.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[Itcaptainslow]

Any reason why Fensport don’t offer any other oils other than 0w20 & 0w30?
Also the millers stuff is ester based so has a far higher shear rate as you are talking about. Maybe this is the part you need when using the 0w oils.

So we’re saying that Millers isn’t such a good oil to use?

 

[GRMatt74]

So we’re saying that Millers isn’t such a good oil to use?

Well Opie told me that Millers was perfect for it. As I said above, It’s ester based so should help with the oil shear problem suggested above.
Just seems strange that Toyota recommends 0w20 and are prepared to offer a 10 year warranty using it.

 

[Itcaptainslow]

Well Opie told me that Millers was perfect for it. As I said above, It’s ester based so should help with the oil shear problem suggested above.
Just seems strange that Toyota recommends 0w20 and are prepared to offer a 10 year warranty using it.

Sorry, I got that the wrong way round in my head - a higher ester content is better, then?

I don’t doubt that Millers isn’t a good oil - however Opie & the manufacturer seem heavily in bed with each other, so I have a certain amount of scepticism that Opie push their products with commercial interests in mind.

 

[Noel McC]

So what 5w-30 to go for come next service? Next service will be end of Nov/early December

Motul 8100 Eco-lite 5w-30 is good and meets the cars ILSAC GF-6a API SP-RC spec

 

[Noel McC]

So we’re saying that Millers isn’t such a good oil to use?

I did a 2nd oil change at 3500 miles to Motul 8100 Eco-lite 5w-30 (it meets the cars ILSAC GF-6a API SP-RC spec) and I think it is better than Millers 0w-20. Though I just do not like 0w-20