GR Yaris Bronson's B-Road Blaster

Bronson said:
Thought it was well overdue to have a thread for myself (as I usually just stick everything into the 'What did you do to your GR Yaris today' thread)

Car bought August 2021

Mods so far:
Rallyflapz (initially red, then changed to satin black)
Tegiwa mirror riser
Retrimmed alcantara steering wheel by Control Customs
TDI Tuning Box
Powerflex front camber bolts
Hardrace adjustable rear camber arms
String Theory adjustable springs
String Theory wheel spacers
Geo'd at String Theory
Whifbitz Titanium cat-back exhaust
'Half' wrap, ceramic coating and detail by Race by Design, EG
Winter wheels Advan RSIII in white
HEL Performance brake lines

Bits still to go on the car:
HT Autos 'Corolla style' wing extension
EBC Bluestuff pads
Airtec enclosed intake

Plans:
17x9's with NS2R's
Rear seat delete with rear strut brace
HJS downpipe
Lithium battery + charger
and probably a few more...


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Hi,
I would be interested to know how you have been getting on with your Alcantara steering wheel retrim
Bronson said:
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£200 including postage in both directions, took about a week. I got 10% off because Control Customs were already doing 2-3 other GRY steering wheels at the same time. I asked for a thicknesser and it's come back exactly how I wanted.
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Fascinated to hear how you are getting on with the retrimmed steering wheel? About the only thing that l don't really get on with on my GR is that the steering wheel is too shiny/slippery and feels too thin. I don't want to go to BMW M style thickness but several mm would be an improvement. Did you consider a perforated , softer, more tactile leather option before going for Alcantara. My only concern would be Alcantara might be a bit rough on the hands for daily use? Thanks.
 
mjscall said:
Do you have any pics of the steering wheel?

I'm thinking I might want this done myself, could you give an idea what it cost?
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Did you take the plunge with the retrimmed steering wheel? A couple of track days into ownership and l am finding the steering wheel too thin and too slippery for perfect control. I may be headed in that direction as well.
 
I've not had it done yet, only had the car 3 weeks now, but it's definitely still in my plan

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk
 
How do you find the DTUK v2 compared to the TDI Tuning box?
 
Short answers and regrettably they are not very helpful at all;

I have done precisely 0 miles since the steering wheel was fitted. I did consider perforated but I’m not using the car a great deal so I don’t think I’m going to worry if it’s too harsh on my hands. The extra padding feels really good.

And as for the DTUK I cannot comment. I haven’t run that for a comparison.
 
Haha, well we’re expecting an update in few weeks then 😉
 
airtec1234.webp


Finally got around to fitting the Airtec Enclosed Intake. A little fiddlier than I thought, the foam insert to hold the inlet in place and the bungs for the vac lead were missing, so I had to use some cable ties and some small screws to cap off. Sounds good though...recently bought an MX+ OBD scan tool so I'll try some data logging too...
 
Went down to SLM Uckfield today to have the Whifbitz Titanium GPF delete (non-res) installed, saving just over 3kg in weight and adding about 10 decibels!

Weight wise I make the stock 'cat back' and GPF pipe to be 12kg and 5.4kg separately (17.4kg). Whifbitz totals 9kg (7kg+2kg).

Also added a carbon gear knob purchased from another forum member on here (y)

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Stock GPF
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Whifbitz Titanium
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Hi, did you use a sticker (because I saw the Gazoo Racing eemblem) for your rallyflapz? Don't they come off easily?
 
Hi @ManuelV I did on the first set of red rallyflapz I had. They came off quite easily.

I didn’t bother with stickers on the satin black flaps because I thought there’s far too many GR badges and logos on the car anyway…
 
Bit of a cock up with timings this week, so I couldn't get to String Theory, but on reccomendation I did get to Abbey Motorsport in Oxted. We dialled back my original settings to something more comparable for the road:

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Bronson said:
We dialled back my original settings to something more comparable for the road:

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Thanks for sharing.

Would you mind giving us an idea (or signpost if there's a post already) of your original settings and what it was that wasn't working for you on public roads?
 
Original settings were way out (blame pothole roads or the car garaged for nearly all of winter?!) but it should have been -3.3 on the fronts and -2.2 on the rears with a little bit of toe in all round. Tyre wear had been pretty even before as the wheels were rotated frequently. It wasn't really a case of what wasn't working, but maybe I had just been talked into dialling back a bit - given most of my driving is on public roads.

The car has had a good test this week as I took it over Snake Pass and the Evo Triangle.

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But given the way the cameras are (I cannot believe how many there are on the Evo) and that ultimately the GRY has too much grip, even with 225 tyres, to be really tested within those limits, I'm essentially limited to enjoying the shift in balance. It's 'fun' to maintain the speed limit through the twisties, enjoy the weight transfer, always being mindful of what is coming up, especially around a blind corner or crest - and only pressing hard when there is a clear line of sight. But I think I'd have had more fun in the Twingo - less power, but skinnier tyres...
 
I like your thinking about dialing back.

-3.3 front can be a lot anyway. Combined with only -2.2 at the rear ("only" is in comparison to the front) and only a little bit of toe in at the rear, I would expect the rear to be too lively and easily catch out most of us. Hopefully, you'll enjoy a better balance, stability and predictability with the new settings.

What parts did you use to achieve these changes? If camber bolts, which ones at front and rear? Eg, Toyota, Powerflex?
 
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Powerflex front camber bolts and Hardrace adjustable rear camber arms, but all of that can be achieved with the stock camber bolts. The car is sitting about 20mm lower on the String Theory springs.
 
Interesting that you had settings "way out" with Powerflex bolts.
 
Around 0.2 out on the front offside camber but one wheel was pointing in, the other pointing out…the rear was almost exactly where it had been left.
 
N17whitehartlane said:
I had the same and I got my bodyshop to PPF the spoiler only and it seems ok, I did treat it to a paint protection seal
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Spirited said:
I like your thinking about dialing back.

-3.3 front can be a lot anyway. Combined with only -2.2 at the rear ("only" is in comparison to the front) and only a little bit of toe in at the rear, I would expect the rear to be too lively and easily catch out most of us. Hopefully, you'll enjoy a better balance, stability and predictability with the new settings.

What parts did you use to achieve these changes? If camber bolts, which ones at front and rear? Eg, Toyota, Powerflex?
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