I was thinking about rust proofing as the GT did look a bit ropey at 8 yrs old. Maybe I should have done something about it before I overtook a gritter on the 2nd day of ownership - that rust appeared really quick and the bolt heads (not in pic down the front of engine)) look years old already.
All models Are you going to underseal?
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Had a quote of £400 to apply Lanoguard, so for that much money for something that needs to be done yearly I might as well buy the correct tools and DIY.
I seem to remember there was a great post up saying which jack (low and long I think) jack stands and even the rubber pucks to put on the stands were best for this car but I can't find it. Can anyone help?
Edit cos I found it
www.gr-zoo.com
I seem to remember there was a great post up saying which jack (low and long I think) jack stands and even the rubber pucks to put on the stands were best for this car but I can't find it. Can anyone help?
Edit cos I found it
GR86 - Recommend parts for DIY
Total noob for doing anything to the car. Only ever topped up window washer fluid. But might like to do more with this car. Youtube oil changes don’t seem too tough. I could be wrong. Anyway, starting this thread for recommended tools required for DIY. eg, what others use to lift the car, and...
www.gr-zoo.com
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I think Waxoyl on a new car is probably fine, If you slap it on over rust it's maybe not so great. Lanoguard and others are clear so you can see if anything is happening underneath
jb1750
Totally Hooked
- Apr 15, 2022
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Been using waxoyl for years myself but recently saw a comparison between it and some newer brands where the waxoyl didn’t perform too well in the tests… I think the gist was that it warms up (reliquifies?) in hot weather and basically runs off. Forget if the test was in a mag or on YouTube
Halfords do a low profile 2T trolley for £51.Had a quote of £400 to apply Lanoguard, so for that much money for something that needs to be done yearly I might as well buy the correct tools and DIY.
I seem to remember there was a great post up saying which jack (low and long I think) jack stands and even the rubber pucks to put on the stands were best for this car but I can't find it. Can anyone help?
Edit cos I found it
GR86 - Recommend parts for DIY
Total noob for doing anything to the car. Only ever topped up window washer fluid. But might like to do more with this car. Youtube oil changes don’t seem too tough. I could be wrong. Anyway, starting this thread for recommended tools required for DIY. eg, what others use to lift the car, and...
I think I read somewhere on the net so it must be true
that ice hockey pucks can be used as jacking pads for a few quid off ebay. I'll let someone else test that theory.
midlife_sportscar
Totally Hooked
I've used these for years, some are even cut to suit the vehicle. I have a bunch from different cars, work great.Halfords do a low profile 2T trolley for £51.
I think I read somewhere on the net so it must be true
They spread the load more evenly, preventing folding and eliminate any metal on metal action.
I've only ever tried Waxoil and when it was warm, stones would stick to it!Been using waxoyl for years myself but recently saw a comparison between it and some newer brands where the waxoyl didn’t perform too well in the tests… I think the gist was that it warms up (reliquifies?) in hot weather and basically runs off. Forget if the test was in a mag or on YouTube
cuddles
Obsessed member
- Feb 6, 2022
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I made my own ramps with solid timber I had in the garage. Only bought the two pieces 12" X 2" as the run up boards screwed on when I use them. Leaves plenty of room to lay underneith. I have changed the stops to 3x3 inch and also put two bags of sand there as and extra stop just in case I go up too fast. Done the whole car twice now with Lanoguard and 5 sprays with Atom-Mac before the Lanoguard went on. The sprays here were the ones I used for Atom-Mac.
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chopper602
Totally Hooked
Heard nothing but good things about the Bilt Hamber rustproofing products. The first owner of my old 2cv went to town with waxoyl and it was inside everywhere. It used to bleed it in the summer, so not ideal.
I've used some Esso product in the past that was supposedly for use on oil rigs, it worked very well but was awkward to apply.
I've used some Esso product in the past that was supposedly for use on oil rigs, it worked very well but was awkward to apply.
Thinking about it, I'm wondering if I might be overthinking it too. I don't remember my GT86 being especially terrible for rust. When I sold it, there was perhaps a very slight bubble on one of the rear arches but I think that was from a stone chip.
The subframe and suspension did look a bit crusty but I think that's fairly normal. I'm thinking that perhaps just a quick spray of an aerosol product (Dynamax or ACF50 or something) over those parts every so often might be enough. And I could do that fairly easily.
cuddles
Obsessed member
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I think it is worth doing the underneith with a quality product at least once a year or every two.
I walk my dog every day and am constantly looking at parked cars and am surprised at the excellent condition that cars are in when they are pushing 15+ years. The streets are full of them. Unwashed and unloved but still in good condition. Not like it was 40 years ago when I started driving and they fell appart after a few years. How many of us have seen car shows pulling old cars out of a garage after 30 years and the underside is mint due to possibly one spray of waxoil so ours will last for decades with a regular wash and re-spray using your prefered product.
It is easy to over think things at times when it is your hobby and you enjoy your cars so much.
I think that giving it a regular spray and greased nuts / sub frames every year or so and then wash and look out for those chips and scratches will have your car looking pristine in 20-30 years. I genuinly do believe 30 years of very good condition is achievable even for a daily never mind a garage queen.
My 13 year old Celica TS had not been treated and had very light surface rust underneith after 95K miles. If I had owned it new and sprayed it like I have done with the GRY I expect it to have been in really good condition. Its only problem was the nuts for tracking were rusted stuck at the back hence the grease I now use on the GRY.
I walk my dog every day and am constantly looking at parked cars and am surprised at the excellent condition that cars are in when they are pushing 15+ years. The streets are full of them. Unwashed and unloved but still in good condition. Not like it was 40 years ago when I started driving and they fell appart after a few years. How many of us have seen car shows pulling old cars out of a garage after 30 years and the underside is mint due to possibly one spray of waxoil so ours will last for decades with a regular wash and re-spray using your prefered product.
It is easy to over think things at times when it is your hobby and you enjoy your cars so much.
I think that giving it a regular spray and greased nuts / sub frames every year or so and then wash and look out for those chips and scratches will have your car looking pristine in 20-30 years. I genuinly do believe 30 years of very good condition is achievable even for a daily never mind a garage queen.
My 13 year old Celica TS had not been treated and had very light surface rust underneith after 95K miles. If I had owned it new and sprayed it like I have done with the GRY I expect it to have been in really good condition. Its only problem was the nuts for tracking were rusted stuck at the back hence the grease I now use on the GRY.
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I have finally had a dry day and I got the car up on some metal ramps I have pressure washed all the salt off the underside. Next day I cleaned off all the suspension parts. Being presse steel these are likely to get rusty pretty quick. Check out the savage geese for an example. I then coated everything up with ACF50 total cost around £30 and I have 75% of it left. All looks nice and shiny again.
Plan is to do the same again in the spring. If it looks like it’s working ok I will continue doing it twice a year. Having been all underneath . There is a clear coating whitish in colour o the shell. Definitely looks to be a car that could develop rust issues lots of pained pressed steel etc. under the front wheel arches on the passenger compartment side there is a horrible thick sticky under seal. Very soft to the touch and the dirt sticks to it. Looks like it was applied by a small child. In years to come I could imagine this being an issue. My cars a daily driver and I have 1200 in 6 weeks done so not a garage queen for context. Still loving it apart from the fuel consumption and motorway road noise
cuddles
Obsessed member
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Watched this video yesterday and found it interesting as these home use products are clearly getting much better. I used Lanoguard on mine and will do it again this summer - third time in 24 months and still like new after 6k.
We probably can't buy that product but interesting to see his best test results were with lanolyn base products.
There seems to be a good range for us in the UK such as AFC and Lanoguard.
It is easy to do and satisfying to do something yourself.
On a hoist it would be a dodle. Pitty a hoist owner can't be found to rent it out for one or two days over the weekend where a group of owners could turn up and do all their cars at once.
We probably can't buy that product but interesting to see his best test results were with lanolyn base products.
There seems to be a good range for us in the UK such as AFC and Lanoguard.
It is easy to do and satisfying to do something yourself.
On a hoist it would be a dodle. Pitty a hoist owner can't be found to rent it out for one or two days over the weekend where a group of owners could turn up and do all their cars at once.
GR86Enthusiast
Dedicated member
The Lanoguard / lanolin products are meant to be best performing products these days
Another interesting set of results here - Waxoyl and some of the other traditional product come out very poor ! They should look like the last two pics. Top half of metal panel not treated bottom half treated
Another interesting set of results here - Waxoyl and some of the other traditional product come out very poor ! They should look like the last two pics. Top half of metal panel not treated bottom half treated
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Martin_uk
Obsessed member
Checked with my local Lanoguard application centre and costs is £675 inc steam clean.
May be less if they agree steam clean not needed, but need car for 48hrs.
https://chassispreservation.com/chassis-treatment
I will probably diy.
May be less if they agree steam clean not needed, but need car for 48hrs.
https://chassispreservation.com/chassis-treatment
I will probably diy.
cuddles
Obsessed member
- Feb 6, 2022
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Lanoguard and lanolin products need re-aplying regularly so you can probably guess what I would say to £675 as well as he saw you coming and his eyes lit up. Cars now are fairly flat underneith and sealed well so easy to do. Slowest job is brushing the grease on but spraying is a doddle. I like doing jobs you can do laying down! I don't think inside pannels need doing - just under the car.
Look at the ramps I made (picture above) out of solid timber and these make the job very easy. My GRY and AygoX will both be done in the Autumn and use about £30 worth of Lanoguard and I know everything except disks have a good layer on. I spray wash the underneith a week before. Anyone in the area who wants to spend a couple of hours doing theirs is welcome and I will even supply tea and coffee.
