GR86 Alignment

They’re actually SPC bolts in the box interestingly, I assume Eibach and Whiteline sell them with their brand in other geographies.
 
Going down this route, bought the bolts

Re. Steering, has anything changed at -1 camber? Its a vague rack for sure but nice and direct at least in fact as good as I think an electric rack can be, I wouldn't want to change it (although ironically Ill be adding spacers...).
 
The only change is more bite as it loads up as far as I can tell.

I’d not call the steering vague as the weighting and seat of the pants feedback is consistent and immediate but it is lifeless compared to anything hydraulic, that’s very apparent when I jump into our mk2 MX5.
 
I had a track biased alignment done to the car (Not factory specs) + 16MM Whiteline camber bolts. The factory alignment was very far out. It feels like a different car now. Very stable, No oversteer on turn in, balanced. Getting this done is the single best improvement you can make to the car.
 
Did an airfield car control day yesterday with some other forum members and the car felt extremely chuckable and easy to control when it did step out (75mph lob into fast lefthander on a trailing throttle). Car felt neutral but overall I'd probably dial out a little of the 10 MOA of toe in I've got on the rear to maybe half that and compare.
 
I had a track biased alignment done to the car (Not factory specs) + 16MM Whiteline camber bolts. The factory alignment was very far out. It feels like a different car now. Very stable, No oversteer on turn in, balanced. Getting this done is the single best improvement you can make to the car.
Mine was out a bit too. Didn't realise how much I was managing it before getting a geo done. Since it's primarily a road car I've gone -1 camber on front, touch of toe in rear, touch of toe out on front, made sure thrust angle is 0 as it was out before it and it's like a different car again. Have far more confidence throwing it down a B road.
 
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Ordered the second set of camber bolts, with just top bolts, I got flat -1.0 degree.

Will update what I am able to get with both top and bottom bolts! Really do want to see around -2.5
 
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Kinda less than expected but can already feel the difference, much more positive front end even in very wet public roads
 
Really must phone Abbey Motorsport and get booked in for this. I never had camber bolts on my GT86, but they did their fast road alignment and it was an improvment...this time, I might ask for camber bolts fitted as well. Are they the same as those used on the GT86?
 
Really must phone Abbey Motorsport and get booked in for this. I never had camber bolts on my GT86, but they did their fast road alignment and it was an improvment...this time, I might ask for camber bolts fitted as well. Are they the same as those used on the GT86?

Same, difficult to pin down and get a date it seems, though.
 
Picked the car up this morning after having an alignment and camber bolts installed at Abbey. Results below. First photo is how it was measured on arrival:

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Apparently, it was a little more out of spec than expected, but they said that it seems the factory specs aren't brilliant for the car - something others in this thread have already noticed. The left rear toe was a fair way out and this tracks with how the car felt - generally it felt pretty good in the dry, but it sometimes felt a a little nervous when accelerating in cold and wet. I had lowered my tyre pressures a tad, which seemed to help a little, but not completely. It didn't feel quite as planted as the old GT86 (also aligned by Abbey, but with no camber bolts).

This does make me feel a little better considering the off I had a couple of weeks ago, knowing that the rear wasn't totally stable. Although I won't be complacent; ultimately it's still on me not being careful enough.

Correct results below - top measurement is after they had installed the camber bolts, but before they did any correction. Lower image is the final alignment.

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It's an immediate improvement. The weather is filthy this morning and the roads are absolutely drenched (I passed 3 accidents on the way there), so there was absolutely no heroic testing on the way home, but the car immediately feels more planted and stable, especially when accelerating. The front end feels much more direct, even at low speeds. I went around a wet roundabout fairly briskly (no one around and plenty of room this time) and there's less of a tendency to wash wide - inspires much more confidence. Also worth noting, that during the service, Abbey also checked and adjusted the pressures back to 35PSI, so it's telling that it feels much better now, than it did before the work but with lower pressures.

Very pleased with Abbey Motorsport, as ever. And definitely proves that an alignment is worth it, even for a brand new car.
 
I'm having to slightly delay the purchase of my coilovers. in the meantime I've picked up some camber bolts and getting an alignment done to add some front camber and sort out the rear toe which I suspect may be out a bit.

If you guys were to get an alignment done again would you still recommend 0.1 deg of toe in on each of the rears?
 
Mine is booked in for its post-coilover fitting alignment on Saturday morning. I’ll be going for around 2 degrees negative camber on the front (not sure exactly what the rears are at now but probably in that ballpark) and ensure it’s still 0.1 degree (or 6 MOA) toe in on the rear.
 
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Visited Abbey Motorsport this morning for tracking check. Before and after shown below on stock suspension and wheels.
No great changes to the settings simply making them match side to side. Immediately noticed smoother steering when moving from the straight ahead, and weirdly a firmer, more positive brake pedal. Not sure where that came from, probably my imagination!
First visit to Abbey, chatted with Mark for a good while. Well worthwhile.

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Fortunately my camber was bang on and less than 0.1 degree different across the back.
Now running 2 degrees rear and around 2.25 on the front using just top hole camber bolts (didn’t have to touch the top mounts). They only had to adjust the toe.

It’s a tiny bit more vague around the straight ahead but the added bite when cornering is worth it.

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With the KWs on pedders at the front I have scope for loads of front camber as theres camber adjustment on the strut too. I also have camber bolts, but no camber arms on the back.

What would people reccomend for front for fast road. Depending on what the rear settles at?
 
I changed the front camber by 16mm top bolts and maxed them out. The geo machine showed -1deg L and -2deg R. After like an hour they managed to get it -1.2deg on both sides. Hoped for -1.5, but that is life.
The big difference kinda suprised me. It seems like a good idea to do a proper alignment after the change and not just max it out at home and call it a day.

I also have the back side unbalanced. Company doing the alignment did not want to mess with it, since there is almost no way to change it without camber bolts for the back. But honestly I think they just did not want to spend time with it. Next time I will visit some other shop...
 

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