Recent content by doabackflip

I think camber bolts are fine for most uses. Top mounts/camber arms are easier to adjust, give a wider range of adjustment, and won’t slip. But camber bolts generally get the job done.

Why have a set of snap on spanners when you can do everything with a single adjustable from wilko? 😀

I got Alcon discs from Ross sport, they were great, but everything still got very hot and went through pads and discs at a rate even with cooling, shims and decent fluid. Some people do the brake pistons on OEM calipers too. I eventually went to the Alcon 6pot with 32mm discs, haven’t really...

Both of the clutches I’ve had were fine for road use - a bit noisy maybe, but a decent size biting point you could easily feel. Interesting to hear about teeth on 2nd, not something I’ve heard about before.

String theory cage is top quality and an amazingly good fit. I didn’t want vertical cross members as I thought it might limit seat space, and I wanted something that mounted to the rear turrets for stiffening. Really nice bit of kit, but not cheap.

Sounds like a decent plan! Which turbo are you looking at? The extra torque made it an expensive few months for me. I ended up with the ogura twin plate clutch which is really surprisingly nice to drive - a bit noisy but not far from OEM in terms of feel. But yeah, sensible to cap the torque and...

No this was on standard turbo with syvecs, cams etc. Gearbox was a coincidence - I'd been unhappy/concerned about it for a while, then when the clutch went I had the box stripped - I think it had done one clutch hub and a synchro but can't remember for sure.

I think the xtreme was rated for 550nm, my car was making 343 lb ft at the wheels, which is 465nm. Which is either very close to or slightly over the flywheel rating, depending on what you guess at for conversion

The clutch and gearbox both destroyed themselves on about the next track day I did after making this post 🤣

There’s only one sensible solution here - buy some new wheels. You’ve already paid for wheel nuts you can’t use, so you’re basically saving money by buying new wheels that will take them…

Are they OEM wheels? The nuts look like they’re for aftermarket-type wheels, 60 degree taper or whatever it is. OEM wheel/nut mating surface is flat, the wheels and nuts need to match.

Reyland can probably make something for you, I would give them a call/email with the dimensions. They can also make bells and supply AP discs if you’re feeling flush!

No not at all, the HJS is more free flowing than the OEM for sure.

The outlet on the OEM cat/downpipe is also 60mm, the HJS is a drop in replacement - so no benefit from a 3in GPD/backbox other than noise! The RM motors downpipe is 4inch to 3inch, so better flow, but you can't use it with the OEM size GPF pipe. Coincidentally I will be selling mine (with euro6...

Is your engine forged?