GR Yaris (Gen 2) GR Yaris Mk2 (MY2024->)

Sam said:
Not sure about that, particularly the lane assist piece.

I've had a number of brand new cars from Toyota as courtesy cars when taking mine in for a service.

Corolla Hybrid Hatch
Corolla Hybrid Estate
Yaris Cross Hybrid

In all three of these, Lane Assist was off by default. Making the fact I have to disable it every time in the GRY even more annoying!
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If they were type approved before last half of 2019 I believe, then the lane assist requirement did not exist.
 
corroded said:
Random thought though, when were those type approved? It's plausible the regulations changed between the type approval times.
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Quite Possibly, the newest car I've had from them was a 73 plate Corolla, so perhaps it hadn't been mandated at that point.

Regardless it struck me as odd that my 2020 GRY has it on by default but other 2020 and newer Toyota's don't. Especially as it seems impossible to code it out on the GRY.
 
markku said:
No rant at all, and I sure follow your reasoning, at least in part. In my ideal world, where I am a billionaire with very deep pockets, I'd buy an Auto GRY Mk2 as my daily drive, and a manual RC to be customises at my will, to take it on snowy and gravel tracks, and in every confined and safe space where I could give way to my insane passion to drive. I'd pass most of my time in my personal workshop, where I'd study new settings and add-on for the RC (I would be a billionaire, wasting my time like that wouldn't be a problem đŸ˜œ) and in my daily driving I'd enjoy my Auto GRY to feel the taste of a rally car even when I drive within speed limits and respecting every street rule.
Sadly I'm not a billionaire...
But you are right when you say that the RC as it's sold it's a sort of unfinished job, and it definitely needs to be customised to work at its best.
Personally, I love this thing, and maybe GR designed it to be like that, I guess (and as a recce-ready car for rally drivers, of course).
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Nice thinking :)

Not questioning your statement, just adding some details from here :)

However a shoutout to the fact that the GR Yaris as it rolls out of the Toyota store is already such a capable car. Maybe as capable as the example you gave when you're a billionaire ;) Obviously there are plenty of modifications that can be justified but not all are " needed" to get the car in "mode to drive". Then for each owners interest and liking of style, whatever can be done of course

About Recce, we see the top WRC-teams using special Recce cars, actually its only Toyota that has a matching potent car for Recce, the others use normal ordinary cars that in some cases are modified for safety and technic. In lower series it's any ordinary family car that is used for Recce, that exercise is not a speed moment
 
I guess you guys never let other people drive your cars, but for me I'm very happy it defaults to nanny mode as most 'normal' people I know really need all help they can get ;)

And myself, I'm so used to the switch dance, I don't even remember doing it most of the time... but even so, there is some value in doing it conciously as cars actually are dangerous things and need a "concious" driver :D Even the best drivers have a bad day...
 
Onehp said:
I guess you guys never let other people drive your cars, but for me I'm very happy it defaults to nanny mode as most 'normal' people I know really need all help they can get ;)

And myself, I'm so used to the switch dance, I don't even remember doing it most of the time... but even so, there is some value in doing it conciously as cars actually are dangerous things and need a "concious" driver :D Even the best drivers have a bad day...
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Sensible comment mate.
While the lane assist and auto start stop are features that I always deactivate I sure as hell won't deactivate traction control if I'm not feeling my best.
These features are there to help us and oftentimes they do just that.
For pure driving pleasure: Everything off! Track / Sport on.
 
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Onehp said:
And myself, I'm so used to the switch dance, I don't even remember doing it most of the time... but even so, there is some value in doing it conciously as cars actually are dangerous things and need a "concious" driver :D Even the best drivers have a bad day...
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I'm the same, and even though I sometimes catch myself thinking 'are you sure?' when I turn everything off when the conditions are less than perfect, I have to remind myself that my Evos had more power and none of the assistance features 20 years ago, and I managed to survive them :D
 
Duke said:
I'm the same, and even though I sometimes catch myself thinking 'are you sure?' when I turn everything off when the conditions are less than perfect, I have to remind myself that my Evos had more power and none of the assistance features 20 years ago, and I managed to survive them :D
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Sometimes it's no for me. Tired, headache and/or sick or just in a bad or distracted mood....
 
Onehp said:
I guess you guys never let other people drive your cars, but for me I'm very happy it defaults to nanny mode as most 'normal' people I know really need all help they can get ;)

And myself, I'm so used to the switch dance, I don't even remember doing it most of the time... but even so, there is some value in doing it conciously as cars actually are dangerous things and need a "concious" driver :D Even the best drivers have a bad day...
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Doesn't happen very often, but sometimes my significant other needs the car, and it defaulting to nanny mode is probably for the best in those situations.
She doesn't like to drive it if she has a choice though, maybe because she has caught me sneaking outside to check the wheels for kerb rash a few times after... There are mountains of trust in this 15 year long relationship, but my wheels are not included in the trust package. đŸ˜‚
 
Onehp said:
I guess you guys never let other people drive your cars, but for me I'm very happy it defaults to nanny mode as most 'normal' people I know really need all help they can get ;)

And myself, I'm so used to the switch dance, I don't even remember doing it most of the time... but even so, there is some value in doing it conciously as cars actually are dangerous things and need a "concious" driver :D Even the best drivers have a bad day...
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I haven't tried the Toyota driving aids, but all my previous cars had them as well and although I disable them on spirited driving, I also like them on when doing boring drives. A car where TC would be off by default is a very bad idea.
 
I did around 200 miles this weekend in the car, mostly Track mode, some Sport. All of it in Expert. Overall I come away from the car every time thinking "this doesn't need any modifications".

One particular section in the Ashdown Forest stands out. Left hand bend, up hill, on camber, slight crest/bump as you exit the apex

The car just eats it up, great confidence as the suspension settles over the crest with a small amount of lateral slide resulting in a huge smile.

A little more power might be nice, say 15% more, and perhaps my ignorance of how Nitrons/Ohlins feel is playing into a lack of desire to adjust the chassis.
 
Sam said:
I did around 200 miles this weekend in the car, mostly Track mode, some Sport. All of it in Expert. Overall I come away from the car every time thinking "this doesn't need any modifications".

One particular section in the Ashdown Forest stands out. Left hand bend, up hill, on camber, slight crest/bump as you exit the apex

The car just eats it up, great confidence as the suspension settles over the crest with a small amount of lateral slide resulting in a huge smile.

A little more power might be nice, say 15% more, and perhaps my ignorance of how Nitrons/Ohlins feel is playing into a lack of desire to adjust the chassis.
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Ă–hlins is a large term. If you mean Ă–hlins Road & Track then this is just a mediocre kit with a limited working window. You could compare it with Bose. They had a great marketing but the product is nothing special really.
 
mrbbs said:
Ă–hlins is a large term. If you mean Ă–hlins Road & Track then this is just a mediocre kit. You could compare it with Bose. They had a great marketing but the product is nothing special and has a limited working window.
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Interesting perspective, thanks. My thoughts on suspension overall are that the tradeoff between the low speed busy-ness and competence when you actually push the car is pretty damned good.

If there were a solution that wasn't hugely expensive and improved both parts of that equation it could be interesting.
 
Sam said:
Interesting perspective, thanks. My thoughts on suspension overall are that the tradeoff between the low speed busy-ness and competence when you actually push the car is pretty damned good.

If there were a solution that wasn't hugely expensive and improved both parts of that equation it could be interesting.
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Been there, done that.

I've been messing with car suspensions for 20 years, and let me tell you, there's no such solution, unfortunately. Sadly, it just doesn't exist. If you really want your car to handle well on the streets and still tweak things like rebound and compression to the point where you're going to notice a difference, you're going to need to spend big on a system with remote canisters filled with nitrogen. Any setup without these? Not even in the same league.

Now, let's talk about something a lot of folks get wrong: how much your car travels up and down, or "travel," for short. This topic gets everyone all worked up, and I know I'm going to break a lot of hearts, but here it goes: dropping your car's height is usually a bad move unless you're also dropping serious cash (like $5k+ USD) on a fancy setup with remote canisters. Most setups just can't handle the car sitting lower. I'll go out on a limb and say that cutting down on travel is the main reason cars handle worse. Over the years, people got it twisted, equating a lower car with better handling. Totally false. A high-up rally car setup can work wonders, both off-road and on super smooth tracks.

Let's be real: a cheap but good suspension is a fantasy. It doesn't exist. I've tried the Ohlins Road & Track on my M3, and it was a letdown. Total trash, not much better than the KW V2. The Ohlins TTX, on the other hand, is superb.

Why are remote canisters a game-changer? They let the system cool off better because they hold more oil and gas. This keeps the performance steady, whether you're just cruising or really pushing it. More space means the suspension can better handle bumps for a smoother ride and stay stable when you're driving fast. In short, remote canisters give you more control and keep things running smooth for longer, which you just can't get with basic setups.

So, if you're not ready to drop a bunch of money on a fancy 2-3 way remote canister setup, just keep your car's original suspension. It's honestly no worse than the cheap stuff too many people are choosing.
 
6mt said:
Been there, done that.

I've been messing with car suspensions for 20 years, and let me tell you, there's no such solution, unfortunately. Sadly, it just doesn't exist. If you really want your car to handle well on the streets and still tweak things like rebound and compression to the point where you're going to notice a difference, you're going to need to spend big on a system with remote canisters filled with nitrogen. Any setup without these? Not even in the same league.

Now, let's talk about something a lot of folks get wrong: how much your car travels up and down, or "travel," for short. This topic gets everyone all worked up, and I know I'm going to break a lot of hearts, but here it goes: dropping your car's height is usually a bad move unless you're also dropping serious cash (like $5k+ USD) on a fancy setup with remote canisters. Most setups just can't handle the car sitting lower. I'll go out on a limb and say that cutting down on travel is the main reason cars handle worse. Over the years, people got it twisted, equating a lower car with better handling. Totally false. A high-up rally car setup can work wonders, both off-road and on super smooth tracks.

Let's be real: a cheap but good suspension is a fantasy. It doesn't exist. I've tried the Ohlins Road & Track on my M3, and it was a letdown. Total trash, not much better than the KW V2. The Ohlins TTX, on the other hand, is superb.

Why are remote canisters a game-changer? They let the system cool off better because they hold more oil and gas. This keeps the performance steady, whether you're just cruising or really pushing it. More space means the suspension can better handle bumps for a smoother ride and stay stable when you're driving fast. In short, remote canisters give you more control and keep things running smooth for longer, which you just can't get with basic setups.

So, if you're not ready to drop a bunch of money on a fancy 2-3 way remote canister setup, just keep your car's original suspension. It's honestly no worse than the cheap stuff too many people are choosing.
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There is just a big misconception that's grown over the years that a lower car and stiffer springs means better handling. However, if you drive eg. a Lotus Elise, the springs aren't that stiff. On the other hand, an Abarth 595's springs are ridiculous and it doens't handle nearly as good as the Lotus.

People also seem to mix good damping and stiff damping. You really don't need superstiff damping, as long as it damps any movement in a short time, and the shorter the travel, the harder this is to do.
 
sandervdw said:
There is just a big misconception that's grown over the years that a lower car and stiffer springs means better handling. However, if you drive eg. a Lotus Elise, the springs aren't that stiff. On the other hand, an Abarth 595's springs are ridiculous and it doens't handle nearly as good as the Lotus.

People also seem to mix good damping and stiff damping. You really don't need superstiff damping, as long as it damps any movement in a short time, and the shorter the travel, the harder this is to do.
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is the correct term then good low speed compress/rebound setup, so it's stiff enough for driver to align the car but can eat bumps when such appear.
 
Another thread derail, maybe should get admin to break it out.

But love suspension discussion.

I partly disagree with @6mt, yes there is shit out there, but it really depends on where you are, climate and roads, or track, and what driving you do.
It's not all or nothing. Remote reservoirs are good to have if driving track or very hard, and more necessary in hot ambients. But not a must for all aftermarket.

Aftermarket will be better in my experience low speed if the spring rates aren't ott, then typically the lower friction (possibly at cost of long life) and better high speed valving help the ride. Even basic adjustable rebound can help tune in the body control damping depending on wheel weight and car load, size of bumps, shock wear and also to some degree temperature. More adjustability will help more to choose the wrong set-up...

Main issue for me, and here I agree fullheartedly, is that the travel is all too often too much reduced (by lowering too much, depending on how height is adjusted) and resulting riding bumpstops all the time (some think that is sporty in curves...), and too high spring rates that put a much bigger load and demand on the dampers, on cheap sets it couldbe shait indeed...

On topic. Really curious if they changed the dampers for mk2, IMHO the mk1 is slightly overdamped in rebound, the slightly higher spring rates thus don't necessarily mean the dampers had to be changed...
 
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