GR86 First oil change (poll)

[DarthHideous]

Do you have to wait the sealant to dry out when you reseal and put the oil pan back to the car?

Wondering if you have or consider to put a baffle plate in while dropping the oil pan?

I don’t believe you have to wait, I think that’s the point of Room Temperature Vulcanising sealants, they just kind of cure at normal ambient temps. Nothing’s leaking out yet anyway
I wouldn’t put a baffle plate in it yet, mainly because I don’t drive it hard enough, but also because that would be a dead giveaway that the pan has been off.

 

[ZN8]

Do you have to wait the sealant to dry out when you reseal and put the oil pan back to the car?

Wondering if you have or consider to put a baffle plate in while dropping the oil pan?

Yeah otherwise it just squeezes out the side. Used it years ago on my 200SX water pump and ended up having to do it twice. The second time I left it to cure a bit before bolting the matting surfaces up.

 

[ritch]

I’m an engineer by trade and I design and plan production for aircraft parts and assemblies, some of which use RTV in the build sequence.

RTV most definitely needs to cure, the product we use needs 24 hours minimum for full adhesion and strength properties.

The other point is it cures on the outside first so whilst it may look dry, it will still be malleable inside.

Follow the manufacturer instructions or you could get more excess in your sump then you took out.

 

[Electric Blue]

Changed oil and filter at 1200 miles. One thing I wasn't sure was where to put the axle stands? I only have two so didn't want to put them on the sides as they'd be on an angle, so held it up with the jack and then had the stands just below on either side under the engine, ready to catch it if the jack gave up.

 

[Conscript]

If you jack the car from the front central jacking point that will lift the front evenly. You should then see a couple of notches in each sill to indicate where a scissor jack would go, that's the best place for stands. I use a couple of rubber hockey pucks with a groove cut in them to protect the sills.

 

[Electric Blue]

If you jack the car from the front central jacking point that will lift the front evenly. You should then see a couple of notches in each sill to indicate where a scissor jack would go, that's the best place for stands. I use a couple of rubber hockey pucks with a groove cut in them to protect the sills.

Thanks! Yeah, that's what I mean. If I jack the front up and then put the car on the jack stands on the side, the car will be mushed onto the stands at approx a 25-30 degree angle, which surely can't be good for the sills even with the rubber inserts I also use. Without four stands I can't see a better way of doing it.

 

[KobayashiMaru86]

Is the front jacking point obvious? Only done from sills so far but would make it easier when cleaning for example.

 

[Electric Blue]

Yeah it's pretty easy to find. The manual has a picture of it which is representative of what it looks like. Pretty much the only bit of the car under the engine that isn't covered in plastic or aluminium.

 

[Conscript]

Stole the photo from online somewhere but I've highlighted the point here. You can see there's even a circular cutout in the undertray which makes it easier to find if you're on hands and knees trying to place a jack.

 

[Electric Blue]

That's the badger

 

[vinny85]

£170 for me at Preston vantage . Ridiculous price but there you go.

 

[Deleted member 1628]

My dealer endoscoped mine for me on oil change- so was very worthwhile.

Hi James, which dealer did you use? We’re they able to endoscope the pickup without dropping the pan?

 

[Grblue86]

From what I understand this is compatible if I want to use 5w-30 right?

Millers Oils EE Performance C3 5w-30 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil

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[drchase]

First oil change at about 500 miles. Swapped with Castrol Edge 5W40. At the same time, I flushed the transmission and differential fluids with Motul 300V, and the braking system with Castrol SRF.

 

[v33]

Just did my break in oil change this weekend after 1088km (676 miles) kept below 4k rpm until then. Used OEM toyota 0w-20 oil. And now started to rev it out, very nice! Oil was quite dark so feels good to have done the change.

 

[kalniel]

Just did my break in oil change this weekend after 1088km (676 miles) kept below 4k rpm until then. Used OEM toyota 0w-20 oil. And now started to rev it out, very nice! Oil was quite dark so feels good to have done the change.

Don't know what it is about modern cars, but they seem to turn the oil black almost immediately - I've got a beautifully clean running Audi tfsi and it does the same.

 

[sim61]

Oil in my car is still clean, just over 1000 miles now. Oil in my previous car, turbo-charged Peugeot, was also really clean at 30k with annual changes.

 

[FRAJ]

Oil in my car is still clean, just over 1000 miles now. Oil in my previous car, turbo-charged Peugeot, was also really clean at 30k with annual changes.

It looks clean enough smeared on the dipstick, but pitch black when it's all dropped out in the tray / on the drive and your hands.

 

[sim61]

It looks clean enough smeared on the dipstick, but pitch black when it's all dropped out in the tray / on the drive and your hands.

You are probably right. Its a while since I actually "did" an oil change myself.

 

[Gari]

Decided I'll be doing all my own services from this point on, my car is already modified a smidge and not daily'd so not massively concerned about the warranty.

Will be doing its second oil change and its first gearbox & diff oil very soon at 5500 miles!