GR86 First oil change (poll)

[Dal3D]

29 ftlb apparently

 

[R99HDY]

Has anyone got a price from a dealer for a running-in service? Since it has yearly service intervals, I'm unsure whether to do an oil change now, as I've just hit 1000 miles or to watch the oil levels and wait til Dec this year for its first service.

 

[AndyRC]

I was quoted £100 for an oil change by my local dealership

 

[James-UK]

I was quoted £100 for an oil change by my local dealership

£30 premium or so and they cant raise any questions. No brainer to me. I think I will do the same, if it's that reasonable.

Which leads me to my next question/statement... if oil change is £100... why is first service over £300 lol... jokers.

 

[v8s]

if oil change is £100... why is first service over £300 lol... jokers.

They need to check the tyre pressures and put some blue colouring in the washer bottle.

 

[GRpirate]

I had a quote to change the oil on mine today from the main dealer. They have quoted £240 but they can do it while I wait as it does not take long. Unfortunately at this time the wait to book a while you wait oil change is 2 months

I have decide to decline they did say I would be better off booking a full service even though it’s only done 2.5k and I gues that would involve change the oil and looking at it for a while for an extra £150

 

[Ersakus]

My dealer (Reading) recommended against early oil change
we will take your money and do it but it does not add much value if you are doing less than 8k a year he said. He was quite firm and was upset about false news spreading over forums and social media about early oil change.

 

[beorg]

My dealer (Reading) recommended against early oil change
we will take your money and do it but it does not add much value if you are doing less than 8k a year he said. He was quite firm and was upset about false news spreading over forums and social media about early oil change.

I don't think the mileage should matter as much as the usage in any case. If the car is constantly used for short journeys or tracking at the top of its rev range then it would warrant an earlier oil change than one that's done 10,000 miles of motorway driving.

Either way, I think the first early oil change is not about what's necessary for the engine's performance or health but rather a chance to inspect the content of used oil for any excessive metal particles, RTV, etc.

Which is why I think it's pointless to take it to Toyota within the break in period as they won't confirm any of it to you.

 

[James-UK]

I don't think the mileage should matter as much as the usage in any case. If the car is constantly used for short journeys or tracking at the top of its rev range then it would warrant an earlier oil change than one that's done 10,000 miles of motorway driving.

Either way, I think the first early oil change is not about what's necessary for the engine's performance or health but rather a chance to inspect the content of used oil for any excessive metal particles, RTV, etc.

Which is why I think it's pointless to take it to Toyota within the break in period as they won't confirm any of it to you.

My dealer endoscoped mine for me on oil change- so was very worthwhile.

 

[WWGR86]

I'm just over 800 miles now so decided it was time to order the parts ready to change the oil. Want to use genuine parts so if anyone's interested, the part number for the filter is 15208AA170 (photo below). ImportCarParts.co.uk have that exact filter with a sump washer for sale on their Ebay shop if anyone's interested. Have used them for genuine parts before: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27355697...PV108XvSgC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I'll pick up some oil from Opie or something closer to the time. Luckily, according to the manual, the exact capacity is 5l including filter, so hopefully only have to buy one large bottle.

View attachment 11842

The filters are out of stock on ImportCarParts currently.

Are there alternative way for buying this filter apart from Subaru Dealer and Fensport?

 

[Taggy]

Was going to order the bits but just had a quote from https://www.toyota.co.uk/dealers/rrgmacclesfield for £110 so going down that route. May ask them to have a look with a borescope or for the filter to be given back to me, but is it going to make any difference anyway as you have a 10 year gurantee and what would you do immediatley about it anyway ...

 

[AP756]

I'm undecided on the first 1000 mile change, not entirely sure if its necessary but I will be going independent for servicing every 12 months (won't cover 10k pa in it). I will however, be switching straight to 5W-30.

Maybe it's not necessary, but it doesn't harm. I wanted to see/feel the oil, so I drove to my dealer after 1500mls. Oil was totally fine, no sediments and oil filter was clean. Now I'm ready to enjoy my GR86 my mind in peace ;-)

Bye for now Fred

 

[vinny85]

just got mine booked in for start of June. They have quoted for oil filter (£14), Gasket (£1) and oil @ around £65 and then labour is about £60.

Has everyone just gone for just the oil change?

 

[ZN8]

No but I intend to go oil only, it won't officially be due its first service until December, but since the car had been sat since June it makes sense to stick some fresh oil in next month.

 

[DarthHideous]

little visit to slowboy racing, in Brands Hatch today, for the post run in oil change and RTV clogging check…. Neil there is a Subaru specialist, who I can’t recommend highly enough. Since this is just a Subaru in a Toyota coat, if you’re in the south east, he’s well worth a visit. He’s a perfectionist - one of very few left based on my experience.
Overall, millers oil makes the engine less clattery when cold, well worth changing ASAP.
Big chunks of RTV in the pick up tube, not enough to write the engine off, but definitely enough to cause lasting damage if not caught early! I’ve run this car very gently for 2,000 miles. If you’ve been a bit more rough with yours, definitely get this checked. We’re going to do another check at 8,000 miles, to see if more has appeared…..
In summary - chunks of RTV stuck in the oil pick up, deposits in the sump and way too much sealant applied to the sump, which i suspect would cause you an issue if you get the engine really hot, especially on those spirited summer drives that are coming up!

 

[Conscript]

How much did he charge you to drop the sump, clear out the filter and reseal it? I'm still a bit on the fence about this issue, I wonder about the warranty implications if your engine did fail and it was easy to tell that you'd had the sump off. But I'm not all that far from Brand's Hatch.

 

[DarthHideous]

How much did he charge you to drop the sump, clear out the filter and reseal it? I'm still a bit on the fence about this issue, I wonder about the warranty implications if your engine did fail and it was easy to tell that you'd had the sump off. But I'm not all that far from Brand's Hatch.

All in, £270 but that also included the labour for an oil and filter change, which is probably an hour of that 3 hours labour (£90 per hour).
I actually work in a Land Rover main dealer, so am very familiar with warranty claims for new engines..,,in my experience, you’ll never have an issue, provided there’s only ever been OEM parts used and no sign of poor workmanship that it could be attributed to. Toyota could be more difficult, but In the real world, if the engine goes bang, the warranty house ask for proof of the issue and the relevant diagnostics to go with it. Provided there’s no dodgy parts fitted, they’ll never query the fact that the sealant around the pan, isn’t 100% identical to a factory application. In honesty, it’s probably far neater now anyway, given the amount of old sealant that had to be scraped off!

 

[unrealpatrik]

little visit to slowboy racing, in Brands Hatch today, for the post run in oil change and RTV clogging check…. Neil there is a Subaru specialist, who I can’t recommend highly enough. Since this is just a Subaru in a Toyota coat, if you’re in the south east, he’s well worth a visit. He’s a perfectionist - one of very few left based on my experience.
Overall, millers oil makes the engine less clattery when cold, well worth changing ASAP.
Big chunks of RTV in the pick up tube, not enough to write the engine off, but definitely enough to cause lasting damage if not caught early! I’ve run this car very gently for 2,000 miles. If you’ve been a bit more rough with yours, definitely get this checked. We’re going to do another check at 8,000 miles, to see if more has appeared…..
In summary - chunks of RTV stuck in the oil pick up, deposits in the sump and way too much sealant applied to the sump, which i suspect would cause you an issue if you get the engine really hot, especially on those spirited summer drives that are coming up!

View attachment 16936
View attachment 16937

thanks for this post. May I ask which exact oil did you use? Do you have the product number? I am struggling to find decently priced ILSAC GF6 oils in the local market.

 

[WWGR86]

All in, £270 but that also included the labour for an oil and filter change, which is probably an hour of that 3 hours labour (£90 per hour).
I actually work in a Land Rover main dealer, so am very familiar with warranty claims for new engines..,,in my experience, you’ll never have an issue, provided there’s only ever been OEM parts used and no sign of poor workmanship that it could be attributed to. Toyota could be more difficult, but In the real world, if the engine goes bang, the warranty house ask for proof of the issue and the relevant diagnostics to go with it. Provided there’s no dodgy parts fitted, they’ll never query the fact that the sealant around the pan, isn’t 100% identical to a factory application. In honesty, it’s probably far neater now anyway, given the amount of old sealant that had to be scraped off!

Do you have to wait the sealant to dry out when you reseal and put the oil pan back to the car?

Wondering if you have or consider to put a baffle plate in while dropping the oil pan?

 

[Someday]

thanks for this post. May I ask which exact oil did you use? Do you have the product number? I am struggling to find decently priced ILSAC GF6 oils in the local market.

This is what I used

Millers - EE Performance Fully Synthetic Engine Oil With Nano Tec - 0w20 - API SP - ILSAC GF-6A - 5 Litre

A fully synthetic performance engine oil featuring NANODRIVE low friction technology for use in petrol and hybrid engines. The correct specification oil for the GR Yaris! API SP and GF-6A. Designed specifically for protection against low speed preignition which is very important for the...

www.fensport.co.uk