GR Yaris Air intake

Great news fellas!! The MAF sensor is held in place by two torq’s bolts. They need to be carefully tightened.

I just checked them today and they were coming loose. So I took a torq-bit and using two fingers tightened them again. On the second bolt the whole mounting cracked and came loose. So either I have superhuman strength or the mountings is way to fragile.

I can’t drive with air coming in after the filter so the car is basically scuffed. Will need to remount original box and return the broken one. Should be a warranty thing, right?

Contact Forge and explain what happened and include some pics maybe showing the tool and fingers, they have warranty.

Personally I hate the faf of replacing everything, not once but twice, unless they are so good to send out a replacement first.... and would consider using some quick cure epoxy to glue things back up - depending on how bad it is, much easier if not bad. CFRP aka "carbon" is in essence one big chunk of epoxy glue with some black fibers in it.

I would still let them know first what happened though - and give them a chance to improve their product and somehow redeem themselves. Unless you are indeed some kind of climber or Tømmerhugger and not an IT consultant finger wise ;)

Good luck with this...
 
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I'm not a tømmerhugger or a hand-oriented weightlifter. So I cant be the only one.

Contacted the Norwegian vendor and they in turn will contact Forge. I will have to change to standard and then change back, but as I said to the Norwegian vendor: I dont really like the thought of having components under my bonnet that can be cracked by pianofingerpower. Will see whats what.

Quick question though: When I removed standard upper box I did not manage to remove the silencing inside the box with the pop-socket-things intact. Will there be any sort of issue running normal box without the sound deafening thing in the bottom?

IMG_1538.webp
 
I'm not a tømmerhugger or a hand-oriented weightlifter. So I cant be the only one.

Contacted the Norwegian vendor and they in turn will contact Forge. I will have to change to standard and then change back, but as I said to the Norwegian vendor: I dont really like the thought of having components under my bonnet that can be cracked by pianofingerpower. Will see whats what.

Quick question though: When I removed standard upper box I did not manage to remove the silencing inside the box with the pop-socket-things intact. Will there be any sort of issue running normal box without the sound deafening thing in the bottom?

View attachment 19190
I've ripped-out that lower plastic grid+sound-dampening cloth on mine since new... no issues noticed (y)
Aftermath of the Forge air intake duct install:
1691496876602.png
 
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I'm not a tømmerhugger or a hand-oriented weightlifter. So I cant be the only one.

Contacted the Norwegian vendor and they in turn will contact Forge. I will have to change to standard and then change back, but as I said to the Norwegian vendor: I dont really like the thought of having components under my bonnet that can be cracked by pianofingerpower. Will see whats what.

Quick question though: When I removed standard upper box I did not manage to remove the silencing inside the box with the pop-socket-things intact. Will there be any sort of issue running normal box without the sound deafening thing in the bottom?

View attachment 19190
Also running without sound deadening here - no issues..
 
IMG_0245.jpeg


I installed Airtec open version today, sounds nice! I still need to remove the stock air duct as its quite loose now.

Video in Google Drive to give you an idea about the sound it makes;
 
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Why did you remove that hose thing? Is that what controls the flap that opens? I haven't removed that.
my reasons:
1. upon Forge carbon air intake scoop install, the lower end of the airbox (also) gets fresher/denser air - which in my opinion defeats the purpose of having the flap system.
2. Sound :LOL: ... this can a minus if you prefer to have a quieter intake.
3. Simplicity...
 
my reasons:
1. upon Forge carbon air intake scoop install, the lower end of the airbox (also) gets fresher/denser air - which in my opinion defeats the purpose of having the flap system.
2. Sound :LOL: ... this can a minus if you prefer to have a quieter intake.
3. Simplicity...
Is it an easy to restore mod (flap removal) or does it involve ripping up some glue bond or the like?
 
Is it an easy to restore mod (flap removal) or does it involve ripping up some glue bond or the like?
my initial plan was just to "unhook" the flap... forced a bit too much and BANG 😅 The flap + its plastic support completely detached from the airbox - a bit of a scary moment really! No turning back after that - since the support seems to be glued (maybe ultrasonic welded) to the airbox.
Anyways, I guess there are good offers for used lower air-boxes in case one wants to re-install the flap... which I don't!
The "positive" side of that is there's now a wide opening pointing to the front/forge scoop.
 
my initial plan was just to "unhook" the flap... forced a bit too much and BANG 😅 The flap + its plastic support completely detached from the airbox - a bit of a scary moment really! No turning back after that - since the support seems to be glued (maybe ultrasonic welded) to the airbox.
Anyways, I guess there are good offers for used lower air-boxes in case one wants to re-install the flap... which I don't!
The "positive" side of that is there's now a wide opening pointing to the front/forge scoop.
I guess it would benefit the car a bit. On the other hand, I've got plenty of boost and low IAT anyway below 4k rpm (where the flap opens), I'm thinking I'm fine as is, and driving sub-4k rpm would appreciate the slightly quieter intake sound.
 
I'm not a tømmerhugger or a hand-oriented weightlifter. So I cant be the only one.

Contacted the Norwegian vendor and they in turn will contact Forge. I will have to change to standard and then change back, but as I said to the Norwegian vendor: I dont really like the thought of having components under my bonnet that can be cracked by pianofingerpower. Will see whats what.

Quick question though: When I removed standard upper box I did not manage to remove the silencing inside the box with the pop-socket-things intact. Will there be any sort of issue running normal box without the sound deafening thing in the bottom?

View attachment 19190

What have they used to mount the MAF? Looks like metal studs they've bonded onto the pipe?

Ideally they could have used something like this which would give a much stronger mounting surface, i'm working on an intake for someone as we speak where this will be the mounting plate

1694615481509.webp
 
Another data point, MST lost power mid range vs stock.




Very well done. You're one of the first I've seen do a dyno comparo using a fan that actually puts some air on the front of the car. Easy to show gains when the stock system relies on road speed to push air into the upper and lower airbox ducts and people use ridiculous little fans. I've done quite a bit of testing on the stock system, and haven't seen anywhere near the IATs some companies report seeing from the OE set up on their dyno...

Without testing I can only guess, but the mid-range dip is probably a resonance thing. The stock airbox has a lot of tricks to prevent sound from interfering with airflow. All that stuff in there isn't just noise attenuation. HKS did extensive testing on the stock airbox and said that it has about 1/3 the restriction of a modern 2 liter turbo car intake system. Very hard to improve on.
 
Stock airflow is very good, but IAT on the other hand is aweful. Personally I've seen 80C, neary same scenario with @Helmut Eder scoop was 30C lower.

The engine bay gets VERY hot especially with no passive cooling and sitting in traffic. I added large RSIC6 bonnet vents and my IAT's dropped to 45-50C in 20C ambient even with an open cone filter

An intake won't do a huge amount for IAT's, Eventuri's testing showed that even with a double digit diference in IAT's before the intercooler there was only 3-4C difference after the intercooler which won't be noticeable. You'd only really see a benefit when you raise boost levels and heat and even then a better intercooler will do more. Again with an open cone and the bigger Airtec intercooler I see IAT's about 10-15C above ambient when moving which is fine
 
I testet it in PETG! 😄

You made great work for giving this intake to others, but for the sake for those who are planning for this reading here, we have now two cases where the intake melted/deformed with PETG from the thread 'What did you do to your GR Yaris today?' here and here, so maybe you should update material recommendations on the file share.
 
You made great work for giving this intake to others, but for the sake for those who are planning for this reading here, we have now two cases where the intake melted/deformed with PETG from the thread 'What did you do to your GR Yaris today?' here and here, so maybe you should update material recommendations on the file share.

I do not know and i haven't heard from other what Parameter they use for their Print. That's essential, but everyone who have enough Skills/Experiences
in 3D Printing know what Values are to use. Nevertheless here my Hel'Scoop after 18 Month without removing from the Car made from PETG. Look
at the Description for my Parameter i use.

About Material. You can use every Material except PLA. Every other Material have a higher melting Temperatur as PETG (75). You can
use ABS, Nylon or Carbon - its depending what Equipment you have...



IMG_20230909_091640.webp
 
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