GR86 White GR86 from Singapore

Jianlun

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Hello!

From Singapore. (Figured its relevant to post because we are RHD too!) Recently collected my White GR86 RC version, imported from Japan.

RC is a Japan-only bottom spec trim level. Notable highlights (or in other words... missing...) are
1. No cruise control, no radio, no Engine Noise Generator thingy, no floor mats, no boot lights,no rear fogs, no vanity mirror lights.
2. Less under floor noise insulation
3. Fabric seats, PVC everything else (but with leather steering wheel).
4. Only 2 (instead of the usual 4 or 6) speakers
5. Steel wheels that weigh a ton but are bomb-proof probably.
6. No intake manifold dress plate, no exhaust tips, no trunk liner.

In other words, perfect.

Link to official Spec comparison to see what else i am missing out (or am i not)? https://toyotagazooracing.com/jp/gr/86/specs/equipment/
 
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Here is my car. Nothing done yet. And many things planned.
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My plan...

Ethos/Concept: Lightweight Responsive OEM+.

Run OEM+ until track timing plateaus, then add engine/response and run until timing plateaus, then add handling/rawness until timing plateaus. Sell the GR86 and buy an EV and die bored.

Phase 1 (the essentials, OEM+)
FJ-craft rubber mats
Steering wheel - Momo Mod 07 and Works Bell 542 boss kit
Gerald just projects cluster plate
TRD strut bar
Gear knob - Delrin diy
Seat - tillett B5 driver, recaro rail
Battery - antigravity 51R or Tsapa
Wheels - 17x7 et42 RPF1 black
Window tint (rear only)
Joying 10in head unit, with TPMS.
Car cam 70mai MiDrive D02 2k
Mishimoto or similiar knock off oil catch can
Whiteline KCA416 for upper hole
Diy driveshaft boot shield
Interior lights LED replacements
Remove clutch spring, TBC
See if can fit tsapa batt under seat and wiring hole
Rmove front license plate mount
Insulate ac pipe return
Whiteline KDT922 subframe mount inserts
Whiteline KDT925 diff mount inserts
Rigid collar front
Paint topside of engine undertray black
Remove hood underside insulator
Adjust brake pedal ~5mm lower.


Phase 2 (more poowweerrr/response)
Exhaust - HKS Spec-L2 with diy diffuser to match
Brakes - AP sprint kit
Carbon propshaft - DSS
Carbon boot (TBC, only if much lighter than stock)
Air intake - TRD/Injen type
Ecutek, OFT or rom raider (lets hope it happens)

Phase 3 (max response/track focused)
Flywheel - excedy TF02
Final drive - 4.55FD
RacerX RUCA
Greddy big rear diff cover
Sti or similiar hardened rubber "group N" engine and trans mounts.

Phase 3+ (min performance gain, only if have spare cash)
Verus or SPL RLCA
SPL FLCA
2 piece rear rotors, oem replacement
Passenger tillet seat to match driver's
Cusco steering rack bushings
Short shifter/shifter springs
 
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Measurements of the head unit area (in case anyone wants to buy you know those Andriod HU with a separate 10in screen, I am!). Also measurements of the gear lever stub in case anyone wants to lathe their own knob (I am!).
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Thank you for posting, that's a really interesting spec of the car and one I'm sure many JDM enthusiasts wanting to make it their own would appreciate!

Being in Singapore, I take it the car cost you minimum $100k with taxes? :ROFLMAO:
 
Being in Singapore, I take it the car cost you minimum $100k with taxes? :ROFLMAO:
I wondered that, is there at least a decent saving over a standard spec car with all the bits missing?

Looks an excellent project, look forward to seeing it develop! (y)😀
 
Hahah dun ask about the cost. Hahaha.

Cars are taxed heavily here, based on their Open Market Value. So the cheaper the base car (and this RC spec is cheap, at 2.99M yen RRP in Japan), the less the tax. So ultimately its a saving. And every bit counts hahaha, more i save on taxes the more i put to the mod budget!
 
So now i am waiting for:
1. FJ-Craft floor mats (got the rubber versions cos its easy to clean, i guess to each his own).
2. The whiteline diff insert and subframe insert bushings. Drove the car for around 85km only, and its handling is sublime. But its directness/response... well... i guess its good for a modern car (read: not raw enough if you are a 90s or 2000 kinda guy). So thats coming!
3. https://www.geraldjustprojects.com/product/2022-brz-gr86-cluster-plate/ i love the geekiness of it. Yes i am an engineer. Hahaha.

To the Admin: is it ok i link the above? Not trying to market it (i do not know him), but just wanna share these little gems with the community.
 
Welcome @Jianlun to the GR-Zoo community and many thanks for sharing your GR86 with everyone. It will be great to follow how your car evolves. looking forward to regular updates 👍😎
 
Something i do to all my cars. Free mod to bring brake pedal lower. So that heel toe is more natural and because the gas and brake pedals are more level, the sliding of the right foot between the gas and brake is also more natural and smooth.

Probably same as first gen. Just putting here.

1. Loosen (size 14 spanner) jam nut and remove brake switch. This gives more clearance since you can pull the brake pedal upwards out of the way later when you need to bring the clevis out to turn.
2. Loosen (size 17 spanner) jam nut on brake master cylinder shaft.
3. Remove safety retaining pin and pin. Massange clevis out of the brake pedal. Turn in clevis 2 rounds (you may want to experiment with more)
4. Reverse everything above.
5. Remember to adjust the brake switch such that about 1 to 2mm of blue can be seen. Too little and the brake lights wun come on until the pedal is very depressed.

Enjoy heel toeing!

Edit 17 June: i turned the clevis 2 more turns in (ie 2mm deeper to firewall) and that lowered the pedal about 5mm for a grand total of 10mm deeper from stock and imho its perfect now! Not just for heel toeing but also with the accel and brake pedals truely at same height, its perfect for my right foot to slide between them.

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Got a new TRD strutbar which is meant for gen1 brz/ft86.

Fits perfectly on the GR86.

Has nice new hardware. The little depression on the underhood noise attenuator seems suspiciously for the strut bar even. And no hoses are hitting it, not even the AC return pipe.
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