GR86 White GR86 from Singapore

No perceptible loss in performance as far as i can tell for that resonator beside the airbox (and i reckon since it is upstream of the filter element, any helmholtz effect would be further damped by the filter anyway.

As for the kidney shaped resonator, some people say there is a difference. Even HKS in their marketing materials justifying why they kept that even with their CAI. I didnt do any before and after. In fact a year back, i bought the mishimoto silicone tube (that goes from after the stock air filter box to the throttle body) that retains this kidney resonator for the exact reason i didn't want a loss in performance.

But thats all behind me now since i have the big ass GR Intake (which doesnt have any resonator and in fact changes the air intake length somewhat). But also cant tell any difference. Maybe i have a numb butt hahaha
I didn't touch the kidney resonator. Only the big resonator adjacent to the airbox, before the air filter.

I did AB testing with and without the big resonator. I swear I'm losing that "kick" at around 3K+ rpm without the resonator. I personally liked the look of the engine bay without the resonator. But my butt dyno disagrees with the decision. Shame, cause I liked the induction noise.

I feel the big resonator acts like a hammer arrestor that buffers the returning air shockwaves when a valve closes. But since the resonator is before the filter, the filter should be absorbing any returning shockwaves.
 
4. And my fav mod cos its kinda free. A friend told me about this Pentel Red marker being very close to STI red aka Sakura Red. I couldnt resist.
Now that is a cool idea. Now I know what to do with that spare can of red caliper paint that's been on the shelf for 2 years!
 
Added in the super rare GR Intake. Seems to be slightly quieter/less throaty compared to my original diaperless JDM stock intake (with all resonators removed except the kidney).

LTFT seems to stabilise <3% for the various load points. No CEL. No discernible effect on drivability (i have a numb butt hahah).

Oh yes I like how there is much more clearance to the filter and the eventually sandwich plate I putting in for my oil cooler (removed the previous one recently).
Finally got around to dyno the car with this intake (stock exhaust, pump fuel, no power mods, 4th gear on a Dynapack, 30degC ambient, high volume/low speed dyno fan, tcf=1.0).

Also did a scatter plot of Short Term Fuel Trim % logs from this dyno as well as some high gear only highway logs (effectively only 3Hz via OBD, not CAN unfortunately), filtered for actual full throttle position (OBD identifier "Absolute Throttle Position B") so basically WOT from a throttle plate (and thus MAF) point of view. Pulls generally are long, about 2 to 3s per 500rpm to get maximum data points. 28 to 32degC ambient.

And i found something strange, more on that a little later.

Most of the logs are with ECU in closed loop with 14.7AFR target. I did basically 50 to 60% accel pedal position, and (thanks to toyota aggressive throttle map) the commanded (and actual) throttle plate position will already be WOT ("Absolute Throttle Position B" = 84%). So by seeing the STFT% as the engine raises through the rpm, we can kinda infer where the VE of the engine (with the GR Intake) differs from stock. The more the STFT%, the higher the VE at that rpm since the engine needs to pump in more fuel to maintain the same target AFR. This is all assuming the OEM engine calibration guys did their job well or didnt intentionally leave the base fuel map with poor correlation with actual engine demands.

So from the scatter plot, there is a distinct trend of:
- Negative STFT% at 2500 to 3000rpm. Lower VE (and thus torque) here? Didnt do a dyno with stock intake, and i cant find enough stock dyno runs that start the pull at <2500rpm to compare effectively.
- Higher STFT% at 3500 to 4000rpm. Higher VE here? Kinda correlates with the GR intake having a nice bump in torque in this region.

Logging MAF would have been more straightforward but the low logging speed and the noisy reported MAF reading gave too big a spread to see any trends, plus i didnt log MAF extensively with stock intake to make much conclusions.
 

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Installed the Craftsquare mirrors. The base is nice billet alu construction, anodised black.

Some images of the field of view from my perspective if anyone is interested.
 

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Oh yes, and what probably is the world's most overdesigned washer cap. 3D printed alu (hehehe, why not?!). With a hole by the side that i will cover up with my thumb to "pipette" up the water to check the water level inside the washer reservior.

Logo is just that of my company, "debossed" in 3mm in the 3d print, then filled up 1mm back with paint from the aforementioned "STI pink" paint marker, then lighly sanded with 600grit to remove the spills and give a nice brushed finish.

Reservior came as part of the HKS oil cooler kit cos the oil cooler ducting took the place of the original reservior so this is a relocated small one. But its opaque (nice light fabricated alu box, black anodised). Thus. Hahahah!
 

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HP mods! Ie stickers!

Put a good old Subaru Pig (yes i know the backstory) on the left to stare at drivers on the left and Angry Pig on the right as my wingman. Homage to the Subaru (yes i know mines a GR86).

Toyobaru sticker over the empty fog light (i dun get any, not even the wiring for it).

All cut from 3M Reflective sticker.

Also added a "hood" over the mirrors cos rain keeps dripping down the mirror. Hehehe.
 

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Busy iterating with a H Pattern gate. Since I will not have the money to buy a Ferrari in this lifetime hahaha.

Fretting with ideas on the reverse lock out. And how to blend it back into the center console.

Suggestions welcome.
 

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If anyone wants. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7009710

Fits the standard buttons on the front cover as well as the original silicone membrane/gasket for some water sealing. Didnt see anyone did that before. Took some iterations getting the fit right.

Note, back cover need to tap M3x0.5, its printed as 2.5mm holes.

Next project is trying to incorporate an EDC knife into the keyfob hahahha
 

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If anyone wants. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7009710

Fits the standard buttons on the front cover as well as the original silicone membrane/gasket for some water sealing. Didnt see anyone did that before. Took some iterations getting the fit right.

Note, back cover need to tap M3x0.5, its printed as 2.5mm holes.

Next project is trying to incorporate an EDC knife into the keyfob hahahha
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Machined Titanium cover, with a creme brulee torch hahahah!
 
Busy iterating with a H Pattern gate. Since I will not have the money to buy a Ferrari in this lifetime hahaha.

Fretting with ideas on the reverse lock out. And how to blend it back into the center console.

Suggestions welcome.
Reached the end state of the gated shifter. Works very well, but because i used back the stock socket/cradle of the pivot, the gate has to be much higher up in order for the fingers of the gate to not look too thin and wierd.

Glad to have experienced a gated shifter once in my life. With all the associated clickety clack!

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And this is the end state of my shifter escapade. Since i had replaced the shifter shaft anyway for the gated shifter project above, i made another, super short, shifter shaft cum knob thingy.

Goal was to replicate the shifting action of an ND miata or FD3S shifter. Short wrist flicks, rather than long or high throws. And yes its i achieved it here!

Bonus is that due to the shorter overall height of the knob from the ball pivot, the shifting action is stiffer and less perceived free play.

And of cause i couldnt resist making a Ti plate and putting the creme brulee torch to it!

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