Michael Knight
Totally Hooked
Planned some new recce routes and events for next year. Didint drive any today but surely dreamt of driving
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I've been thinking about one of these. Interested to hear how you find it.*will eventually log to see how much it actually does for IAT >4k rpm
Nice piece, light, however the bit that goes in the airbox isn't a good fit, it leaves a little gap on all sides and is a bit more square, so added black double sided padded tape with some electrical tape around it again to make it fit snug/airtight. I would say no change in noise, ok maybe the tiniest bit of sound added to the intake, can hear the difference because I have ESE switched off. IAT report upcoming...I've been thinking about one of these. Interested to here how you find it.
Any pics, and how is it now? I've got some Dynamat ready to go, just haven't got round to it yet. I'm just looking to reduce a bit of the tyre noise for longer journeys.Dynamatted the most resonating panels in the boot, rear hatch and rear wheel arches. Yes, I know it's additional weight but my custom exhaust is lighter than the OEM one so man maths says it's free
I didn't get any photos, but I will try and get some later on. The main areas I dynamatted were:Any pics, and how is it now? I've got some Dynamat ready to go, just haven't got round to it yet. I'm just looking to reduce a bit of the tyre noise for longer journeys.
That's interesting. I have an open point with my dealer as the number plate flaps about too much for my liking. Thought it was just them not securing it very well and they have offered to look at it.Finally I put a layer of foam padding on the back of the rear number plate as that was flapping about a bit with only two screws holding it down.
The two screws that mount it to the boot are fairly high on UK number plates, in the top third of the plate. As the 'receptical' points on the boot are raised slightly this means the dealers (or factory) stick two felt pads on the rear hatch paintwork at the bottom of the number plate (for UK cars at least), so whilst it should stop vibration, the long number plates we have here in UK (standard ones) overhang by a fair way so you still get some vibration. I've just bought a plate surround and mounted it slightly higher to offset this slightly and just added some sticky back foam padding on the ends to create more contact points.That's interesting. I have an open point with my dealer as the number plate flaps about too much for my liking. Thought it was just them not securing it very well and they have offered to look at it.
The cable release for the fuel flap was my most aggressive rattle to date. Now that’s sorted I’ve got one left in the passenger door which is emanating from near the mirror so must be cables related to that as I’ve taped down all the cables inside the door card alreadyrear number plate is the cause of most of the noises/vibrations from the rear
Usually I don't do this kind of stuff but it just looked righti have one think its a good bit of interior bling![]()
Similar situation here.The two screws that mount it to the boot are fairly high on UK number plates, in the top third of the plate. As the 'receptical' points on the bot are raised slightly this means the dealers (or factory) stick two felt pads on the rear hatch paintwork at the bottom of the number plate (for UK cars at least), so whilst it should stop vibration, the long number plates we have here in UK (standard ones) overhang by a fair way so you still get some vibration. I've just bought a plate surround and mounted it slightly higher to offset this slightly and just added some sticky back foam padding on the ends to create more contact points.