GR Yaris What did you do to your GR Yaris today?

Planned some new recce routes and events for next year. Didint drive any today but surely dreamt of driving
 
I had the back box modified as it was just a touch too loud 😵‍💫

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*will eventually log to see how much it actually does for IAT >4k rpm
I've been thinking about one of these. Interested to hear how you find it.
 
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I've been thinking about one of these. Interested to here how you find it.
Nice piece, light, however the bit that goes in the airbox isn't a good fit, it leaves a little gap on all sides and is a bit more square, so added black double sided padded tape with some electrical tape around it again to make it fit snug/airtight. I would say no change in noise, ok maybe the tiniest bit of sound added to the intake, can hear the difference because I have ESE switched off. IAT report upcoming...
 
Dynamatted the most resonating panels in the boot, rear hatch and rear wheel arches. Yes, I know it's additional weight but my custom exhaust is lighter than the OEM one so man maths says it's free
 
Dynamatted the most resonating panels in the boot, rear hatch and rear wheel arches. Yes, I know it's additional weight but my custom exhaust is lighter than the OEM one so man maths says it's free
Any pics, and how is it now? I've got some Dynamat ready to go, just haven't got round to it yet. I'm just looking to reduce a bit of the tyre noise for longer journeys.
 
Any pics, and how is it now? I've got some Dynamat ready to go, just haven't got round to it yet. I'm just looking to reduce a bit of the tyre noise for longer journeys.
I didn't get any photos, but I will try and get some later on. The main areas I dynamatted were:

  • The floor panel immediately between the battery and the bumper (with 2 layers of matting)
  • The two floor panels immediately either side of the battery
  • The cross member in the middle of the boot floor
  • Large patches on either rear wheel arch under the carpet
  • Two large patches inside the boot hatch lid (under the flimsy carpet covering)
  • Two strips inside the plastic covering where the high level boot light is located (I also checked the rear spoiler boots were screwed up tight so had to take 2 rubber grommets off)
I then found the boot release cable and stuck it down in strategic locations with helicopter tape. It's like bike gear cable, very hard, very resonant. I think it may have been this vibrating in the boot area. I made sure all relays / modules / cables were suitably damped with remanence of dynamat .

There is a relay to the left hand side of the battery that is secured to the boot floor with a single bolt. I slipped a small offcut of Dynamat under the unbolted edge and nearest the wheel arch and it seemed to really stop it from vibrating when I flicked it about (everything got a tap / flick test for resonance!).

Finally I put a layer of foam padding on the back of the rear number plate as that was flapping about a bit with only two screws holding it down.

The major reason for this was to reduce tyre noise and new exhaust resonance, some of the panels as so thin they can help but resonate with a stainless performance exhaust of any kind right beneath them. Am heading out later to test to see if it worked.
 
Finally I put a layer of foam padding on the back of the rear number plate as that was flapping about a bit with only two screws holding it down.
That's interesting. I have an open point with my dealer as the number plate flaps about too much for my liking. Thought it was just them not securing it very well and they have offered to look at it.
 
That's interesting. I have an open point with my dealer as the number plate flaps about too much for my liking. Thought it was just them not securing it very well and they have offered to look at it.
The two screws that mount it to the boot are fairly high on UK number plates, in the top third of the plate. As the 'receptical' points on the boot are raised slightly this means the dealers (or factory) stick two felt pads on the rear hatch paintwork at the bottom of the number plate (for UK cars at least), so whilst it should stop vibration, the long number plates we have here in UK (standard ones) overhang by a fair way so you still get some vibration. I've just bought a plate surround and mounted it slightly higher to offset this slightly and just added some sticky back foam padding on the ends to create more contact points.
 
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rear number plate is the cause of most of the noises/vibrations from the rear
The cable release for the fuel flap was my most aggressive rattle to date. Now that’s sorted I’ve got one left in the passenger door which is emanating from near the mirror so must be cables related to that as I’ve taped down all the cables inside the door card already 😖
 
I asked my dealer not to use screws to attach number plates as I hate them and to use sticky pads to attach them and they obliged no problem it’s your car they said we will do whatever you want 👍🏻👍🏻
 
The two screws that mount it to the boot are fairly high on UK number plates, in the top third of the plate. As the 'receptical' points on the bot are raised slightly this means the dealers (or factory) stick two felt pads on the rear hatch paintwork at the bottom of the number plate (for UK cars at least), so whilst it should stop vibration, the long number plates we have here in UK (standard ones) overhang by a fair way so you still get some vibration. I've just bought a plate surround and mounted it slightly higher to offset this slightly and just added some sticky back foam padding on the ends to create more contact points.
Similar situation here.

I’m too am thinking the solution is just replacing the lower foam pads with adhesive-backed ones

I
 
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