GR Yaris What did you do to your GR Yaris today?

My brake upgrades and shifter are installed. Gr garage in Japan has to sell the cae shifter installed with a shift boot by a local distributor but since I picked silver/black interior combo the red stitching on the boot was a no go. I told them I was going to pull it off so thankfully they didn't attach it to the trim and it was a 30 second job. Some other type of flat cover might be good though.
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Went with the endless CC-Rg pads, endless swivel racing lines, endless rf-650 fluid, kinokuni stainless clutch hose. Gr endurance 0w20 oil. Also I asked them what they recommended for the transmission and they put in NUTEC NC-70. Since I'm on the stock suspension - for an alignment I just asked for as much negative camber as possible in the front and less rear toe. Here's the after and before.
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Bedded in the pads and didn't notice a wild difference in feel from stock so they seem very street friendly but we will see this weekend when I can put them through some work.
 

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Ordered a Pierburg Superseded version of the Boost Solenoid. I have the OG part number on my Yaris so this newer version came on the Gen2 with mine being one of the last few months of Gen1 production. I feel like I have lost some power in 3rd or 4th when pulling hard. I am guessing heat cycles are killing the the earlier version. New plugs made a world of change, but my arse dyno tells me we are still down on power a little. After reading a few posts of people who changed them on here on the inconsistent boost thread I have bit the bullet and ordered one for 90euro.
 
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Went to DTM race at Redbull Ring yesterday and I was kindly surprised seeing our GR Yaris being used as a safety car for European Regional formula races. And there is simple reason for that, new cars in that series by Tatus actually use G16E derived engines! Interesting stuff, but of course we came for GT3s :LOL:



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I fixed some squealing brakes and was mildly horrified at how much caked on brake dust there is around the caliper. I greased the slider pins but I think I’ll wait til I change the brake pads for a proper clean up of the area to avoid contamination as I’m paranoid about it. Also spotted what I hope is surface rust which will need addressed when it gets its next undersealing top up / check. Coming up to 4 years so not terrible but anything rust wise still gives me the jitters.

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mag said:
I had a proper look inside the arches for the first time since last summer. The arches have been battered since I last checked... It seems quite easy to miss this. Probably a combination of thin paint and crumbling roads but I can foresee a lot of these rusting out at the arches in classic JDM fashion View attachment 40954
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For that reason I have put Xpel PPF on the lower part of the car.
 
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I’m definitely one for enjoying my car and driving it while I can, but I do hate the ticking timebomb that is rust. Even with underseal and ppf it’s always at the back of my mind. It’s the same with the arches on my s2000 which might offer a glimpse into the future.

Meanwhile the Skoda (without aftermarket underseal) remains immaculate with no rust at all despite double the miles on the clock vs the Yaris…
 
mag said:
I had a proper look inside the arches for the first time since last summer. The arches have been battered since I last checked... It seems quite easy to miss this. Probably a combination of thin paint and crumbling roads but I can foresee a lot of these rusting out at the arches in classic JDM fashion View attachment 40954
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I have the same situation, but I always drive on gravel roads.
I'll touch up the paint and maybe apply some polyurethane anti-gravel compound.
 
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I changed the oil.
My only comment is about the rear differential oil; it's black, as usual in Toyotas. I'll change it at 20,000.
The other transmission fluids I drained were clean, so they can be changed as scheduled.
I changed the engine oil at 5,000, and the level hasn't dropped.

Current mileage: 51,000
 
Navihaus said:
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I changed the oil.
My only comment is about the rear differential oil; it's black, as usual in Toyotas. I'll change it at 20,000.
The other transmission fluids I drained were clean, so they can be changed as scheduled.
I changed the engine oil at 5,000, and the level hasn't dropped.

Current mileage: 51,000
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First time changing the diff oil?
I think they have some (black) moly assembly grease from factory, I changed mine with 4000km and it was already black.
 
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Yes, this is the first time. The Yaris was purchased with 23,000 miles on the clock and serviced in Japan.
I've noticed this darkening in all the Toyotas I've owned, specifically in the rear differential.
 
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I've decided to go to an indy going forward after having the car modified and seeing Toyota's fixed prices now for a minor service 😳,

Paid a visit to Nigel at C-TEC yesterday, for the 5th year oil change service, absolute top gent and a real petrol head, also had the foresight short shifter installed on his recommendation, I was surprised by how much I liked it over the OEM shift.

Some nice evos around including a TME, a nice gen 1 liveried MK1 and an aero package, both from distant parts of the UK, testament to Nigel's reputation. Forgot to get a half decent photo of the aero package so it's through the window on the way out 😅

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AK10TOY said:
I've decided to go to and indy going forward after having the car modified and seeing Toyota's fixed prices now for a minor service 😳,

Paid a visit to Nigel at C-TEC yesterday, for the 5th year oil change service, absolute top gent and a real petrol head, also had the foresight short shifter installed on his recommendation, I was surprised by how much I liked it over the OEM shift.

Some nice evos around including a TME, a nice gen 1 liveried MK1 and an aero package, both from distant parts of the UK, testament to Nigel's reputation. Forgot to get a half decent photo of the aero package so it's through the window on the way out 😅

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I got the Foresight short shifter through Nigel too, he was right in his assertion that it would be the best pound for pound mod you can do, love mine 😍
 
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