GR Yaris What did you do to your GR Yaris today?

So I went for my first drive today with the new SportContact7s. Did a loop of around about 80ks.
First reaction. Well I was on the expressway driving at 120kph and thinking the vehicle feels it is wandering almost like its tramlining. Not impressed.
Next, through the twisties B type road, nice sharp turn-in. A little more outright grip than the Bridgeston Potenzas that were removed.
Returning back home down the expressway still the wandering going on I'm thinking this is not right.
Check the pressures. I asked for 36psi all round and got
LHF 35psi
RHF 42psi
RHR 40psi
LHR 38psi.
Did not drive it again but assume the unequal pressures are causing the issue.
Any recommendations Re pressures for fast B type road use?.
why not use the OEM pressures as a good starting point?

32/30psi
 
Decided, bit sooner than anticipated, that I'm selling mine. Full story here: https://www.gr-zoo.com/threads/hyundai-ioniq-5-n.6534/post-103295

Bit of a paradigm shift, end of ICE era and the beginning of something new!

Going to try various auction routes as the last car trying to sell privately was a nightmare, tyre kickers and no money all of them. That said, welcome to inquire in PM if not too far from Sweden...

Wil still check in now and then and see what's happening... thanks for a great 2,5 years dear Forum(members)!
Hope you enjoy the car. Little surprised to see you sell the Yaris but I've been a bit of an admirer of N division cars for a while now so I can see the appeal.

Got a feeling in a few years they are going to be really sort after. Theres too much neat stuff coming out of Hyundai at the moment, not just the old ICE cars but the newer electric ones and even the super rare stuff which we'll probably ever seen in the flesh ourselves like the N Vision 74 which makes me feel all funny.
 
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So I went for my first drive today with the new SportContact7s. Did a loop of around about 80ks.
First reaction. Well I was on the expressway driving at 120kph and thinking the vehicle feels it is wandering almost like its tramlining. Not impressed.
Next, through the twisties B type road, nice sharp turn-in. A little more outright grip than the Bridgeston Potenzas that were removed.
Returning back home down the expressway still the wandering going on I'm thinking this is not right.
Check the pressures. I asked for 36psi all round and got
LHF 35psi
RHF 42psi
RHR 40psi
LHR 38psi.
Did not drive it again but assume the unequal pressures are causing the issue.
Any recommendations Re pressures for fast B type road use?.
I would start off with the standard pressures and go from there.
 
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So I went for my first drive today with the new SportContact7s. Did a loop of around about 80ks.
First reaction. Well I was on the expressway driving at 120kph and thinking the vehicle feels it is wandering almost like its tramlining. Not impressed.
Next, through the twisties B type road, nice sharp turn-in. A little more outright grip than the Bridgeston Potenzas that were removed.
Returning back home down the expressway still the wandering going on I'm thinking this is not right.
Check the pressures. I asked for 36psi all round and got
LHF 35psi
RHF 42psi
RHR 40psi
LHR 38psi.
Did not drive it again but assume the unequal pressures are causing the issue.
Any recommendations Re pressures for fast B type road use?.
32F 30R with CSC7 works for me on B road blasts
 
So I went for my first drive today with the new SportContact7s. Did a loop of around about 80ks.
First reaction. Well I was on the expressway driving at 120kph and thinking the vehicle feels it is wandering almost like its tramlining. Not impressed.
Next, through the twisties B type road, nice sharp turn-in. A little more outright grip than the Bridgeston Potenzas that were removed.
Returning back home down the expressway still the wandering going on I'm thinking this is not right.
Check the pressures. I asked for 36psi all round and got
LHF 35psi
RHF 42psi
RHR 40psi
LHR 38psi.
Did not drive it again but assume the unequal pressures are causing the issue.
Any recommendations Re pressures for fast B type road use?.
Im using the pressures from the big Sport Auto review

Unbenannt.jpg


Front: 2,0 bar - 29 psi
Rear: 2,4 bar - 34 psi

As they have noted it makes the car very agile with a precise front end with no understeer even in tight turns and the rear noticeably helps the car rotate.
On the Nordschleife they actually choose to go the other way around since it's a high-speed course and the lively rear robbed them of confidence.
They have also noted that the car is very sensitive to tire pressure changes in general. It really changes how the car behaves.

I choose the Hockenheim setting for myself since that's the kind of driving you will do on some backroads in the real world. Tight and twisty roads with relatively low speed. I mean I certainly have never approached a turn with like 200 kmh but that's just me. I have been very happy with this setting so far.
 
Im using the pressures from the big Sport Auto review

View attachment 28926

Front: 2,0 bar - 29 psi
Rear: 2,4 bar - 34 psi

As they have noted it makes the car very agile with a precise front end with no understeer even in tight turns and the rear noticeably helps the car rotate.
On the Nordschleife they actually choose to go the other way around since it's a high-speed course and the lively rear robbed them of confidence.
They have also noted that the car is very sensitive to tire pressure changes in general. It really changes how the car behaves.

I choose the Hockenheim setting for myself since that's the kind of driving you will do on some backroads in the real world. Tight and twisty roads with relatively low speed. I mean I certainly have never approached a turn with like 200 kmh but that's just me. I have been very happy with this setting so far.

If I understand this correctly, these were the pressures with the tyres warm.

So, what do you set then to when cold to achieve these temperatures once the tyres are warmed up?

I expect the rears to have been set at a pressure similar to the one Toyota recommends, but the fronts would probably have to be set at such low pressure that would suggest to me less agility and precision.
 
If I understand this correctly, these were the pressures with the tyres warm.

So, what do you set then to when cold to achieve these temperatures once the tyres are warmed up?

I expect the rears to have been set at a pressure similar to the one Toyota recommends, but the fronts would probably have to be set at such low pressure that would suggest to me less agility and precision.
I have set my tires to this value. I guess I could drop 0,1 or 0,2 to account for heat but I haven't bothered with yet. It's not like Im pushing it like on a racetrack and I still make less fun backroad drives than I want to but I plan on changing that in the near future. The most important thing is keeping the front/rear balance intact and from my experience that works pretty good. All tires seem to warm up pretty evenly.

I found the car biased towards understeer from the factory which isn't surprising. Even a mid-engine sportscar like the C8 Corvette does that. If you want to change that you will have to set the car to its track alignment yourself. I think that's true for the Yaris too. With the different original Toyota camber bolts that allow more camber and the tire pressure I can barely get the car to understeer now. You have to do something completely over the top and stupid to still manage that.

I personally prefer the car this way much more and I barely see any downside to it either. It's still a very safe car that won't go out of it's way to kill you. With these tweaks you just shift the balance a bit.
 
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I have set my tires to this value. I guess I could drop 0,1 or 0,2 to account for heat but I haven't bothered with yet. It's not like Im pushing it like on a racetrack and I still make less fun backroad drives than I want to but I plan on changing that in the near future. The most important thing is keeping the front/rear balance intact and from my experience that works pretty good. All tires seem to warm up pretty evenly.

I found the car biased towards understeer from the factory which isn't surprising. Even a mid-engine sportscar like the C8 Corvette does that. If you want to change that you will have to set the car to its track alignment yourself. I think that's true for the Yaris too. With the different original Toyota camber bolts that allow more camber and the tire pressure I can barely get the car to understeer now. You have to do something completely over the top and stupid to still manage that.

I personally prefer the car this way much more and I barely see any downside to it either. It's still a very safe car that won't go out of it's way to kill you. With these tweaks you just shift the balance a bit.

The elusive elimination of understeer!

"can barely get the car to understeer now" sounds promising.

So, what geo settings did you go?
 
The elusive elimination of understeer!

"can barely get the car to understeer now" sounds promising.

So, what geo settings did you go?
Just replaced the upper stock bolt with this other Toyota one.
toyota_bolt_1-e1669736137798.jpg


They cost almost nothing and they are original Toyota parts. You just have to be careful since there are different variations of them. You basically need the slimmest one. I think it's the one with the 3 dots or lines or something like that.

That allows you to change the camber. I set it to -3 on both sides and that's it really. Im sure they are members here who can go more in-depth about their personal settings and how they affect the car but that's all beyond me. Im more then content with this.
 
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Just replaced the upper stock bolt with this other Toyota one.
toyota_bolt_1-e1669736137798.jpg


They cost almost nothing and they are original Toyota parts. You just have to be careful since there are different variations of them. You basically need the slimmest one. I think it's the one with the 3 dots or lines or something like that.

That allows you to change the camber. I set it to -3 on both sides and that's it really. Im sure they are members here who can go more in-depth about their personal settings and how they affect the car but that's all beyond me. Im more then content with this.

Thank you for the elaborate response and yes, I should be more than content with -3 degrees, otherwise I'd really be looking for trouble. Currently at -2.5 degrees, which felt great to start with but didn't give me the shift of balance you mentioned in your previous post, probably because I also went for -2.25 degrees at the rear and quite a bit of toe in at the rear.

I reckon you haven't touched the rear camber; so it all makes sense why you have felt a shift of balance given a front-rear camber difference of almost certainly more than 1 degree and the tyre pressure trick.

To form a fuller picture, do you know what toe settings you have front and rear?
 
Thank you for the elaborate response and yes, I should be more than content with -3 degrees, otherwise I'd really be looking for trouble. Currently at -2.5 degrees, which felt great to start with but didn't give me the shift of balance you mentioned in your previous post, probably because I also went for -2.25 degrees at the rear and quite a bit of toe in at the rear.

I reckon you haven't touched the rear camber; so it all makes sense why you have felt a shift of balance given a front-rear camber difference of almost certainly more than 1 degree and the tyre pressure trick.

To form a fuller picture, do you know what toe settings you have front and rear?
I did get an alignment after installing the bolts and told them I want -3 at the front and the rest should be stock settings. They gave me a paper with their adjusted settings but unfortunately Im bad at sorting and storing my paperwork so I don't have it at hand right now since it has been over a year but if you give me some time I might find it again.

So from what I gathered you are still not quite happy with your settings?
 
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I did get an alignment after installing the bolts and told them I want -3 at the front and the rest should be stock settings. They gave me a paper with their adjusted settings but unfortunately Im bad at sorting and storing my paperwork so I don't have it at hand right now since it has been over a year but if you give me some time I might find it again.

So from what I gathered you are still not quite happy with your settings?

That's right, unfortunately. Good for a while but now looking for more. It might be poor driving techniques, but I feel that the car tends to understeer more than I would like it to.

I'm contemplating increasing front camber from -2.5 degrees to -2.75, -3 or anything inbetween and front toe out from -3 minutes to -5. My tyre wear suggests I should tone it down instead, but understeer frustrates me; I feel that the shift of balance that you mentioned is exactly what I'm looking for in order to lose that understeer bias. I'll be adding a caster kit too, with whatever dynamic camber increase that brings, hence I'm interested to hear from people like you who have tried -3 front camber. I don't track the car; so, aiming to alleviate some of the disadvantages associated with -3 front camber (which will be beyond -3 in practice for me in my target setup, due to the caster I'll be adding) by:
  • Retaining a rear camber between -2 and -2.25 degrees
  • Keeping rear toe in, at 4 or 5 minutes
  • Installing a rear trailing arm bush
 
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That's right, unfortunately. Good for a while but now looking for more. It might be poor driving techniques, but I feel that the car tends to understeer more than I would like it to.

I'm contemplating increasing front camber from -2.5 degrees to -2.75, -3 or anything inbetween and front toe out from -3 minutes to -5. My tyre wear suggests I should tone it down instead, but understeer frustrates me and, I feel that the shift of balance that you mentioned is exactly what I'm looking for to lose that understeer bias. I'll be adding a caster kit too, with whatever dynamic camber increase that brings, hence I'm interested to hear from people like you who have tried -3 front camber. I don't track the car; so, aiming to alleviate some of the disadvantages associated with -3 front camber (which will be beyond -3 in practice for me in my target setup, due to the caster I'll be adding) by:
  • Retaining a rear camber between -2 and -2.25 degrees
  • Keeping rear toe in, at 4 or 5 minutes
  • Installing a rear trailing arm bush
What mode are you running the car in when experiencing understeer?
 
What mode are you running the car in when experiencing understeer?

I've had it with all three.

When it gave me such understeer that I thought something was really wrong with the car, I realised that I was in Normal mode by mistake. Rediculous levels of understeer.

In Sport & Track, things have never been that bad and I haven't noticed a great difference between these two modes with reference to my understeer.

I just feel the car can/should do better than what I'm getting from it. With stock geo settings*, I got familiar with, then used to, it opening the circle on throttle while exiting corners. Got a bit bored of that once it became too predictable and set the above-mentioned geo settings, aiming for that shift of balance that @Galerion referred to, as I was setting more negative camber at the front than the rear and opening up front toe a bit. I wasn't looking for powerslides, just a bit of liveliness from the rear, with it telling me it wants to give up traction before the front does.

And while I don't object to deviating a bit from the tyre pressures Toyota recommends, I don't want my starting point in that pursuit for a shift of balance to be neither through:
  • turning my rear tyres into over-inflated balloons; nor
  • opening up the rear toe beyond what Toyota recommends.

*: which I never had a chance to know and keep in mind as a baseline, as the alignment people only told me that they didn't bother measuring the "before" settings once I challenged these settings on the sheet as random and impossible. Shame, as I was getting a bit of fishtailing on braking; so, it would be good to have an indication of what to avoid.
 
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That's right, unfortunately. Good for a while but now looking for more. It might be poor driving techniques, but I feel that the car tends to understeer more than I would like it to.

I'm contemplating increasing front camber from -2.5 degrees to -2.75, -3 or anything inbetween and front toe out from -3 minutes to -5. My tyre wear suggests I should tone it down instead, but understeer frustrates me; I feel that the shift of balance that you mentioned is exactly what I'm looking for in order to lose that understeer bias. I'll be adding a caster kit too, with whatever dynamic camber increase that brings, hence I'm interested to hear from people like you who have tried -3 front camber. I don't track the car; so, aiming to alleviate some of the disadvantages associated with -3 front camber (which will be beyond -3 in practice for me in my target setup, due to the caster I'll be adding) by:
  • Retaining a rear camber between -2 and -2.25 degrees
  • Keeping rear toe in, at 4 or 5 minutes
  • Installing a rear trailing arm bush
Hi again.

So I found the papers. Im actually a complete rookie when it comes to this topic though so I will just give you my numbers how they are written on here.

Front
Toe left: +0°11'
Toe right: +0°11'

Back
Toe left: +0°10'
Toe right: +0°10'


On the topic of disadvantages of -3° camber though I can say that I have been driving for a year with this setting now and I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary when it comes to tire wear on both the summer and winter tires. I drive around 10.000 km a year though. I guess if you drive more then that then it could become an issue but for me it really hasn't been so far.

And lastly there is this video. I also posted that in the video section but as I watched it I was reminded about our conversation. Because you can really see here how the car rotates to dance throughout this course. It's clearly a modified car with an experienced driver at the helm but it shows that achiviving this balance is possible. It's unfortunate that he is probably not a member of this forum since he would be the perfect person to ask on what you need to do.

 
I've had it with all three.

When it gave me such understeer that I thought something was really wrong with the car, I realised that I was in Normal mode by mistake. Rediculous levels of understeer.

In Sport & Track, things have never been that bad and I haven't noticed a great difference between these two modes with reference to my understeer.

I just feel the car can/should do better than what I'm getting from it. With stock geo settings*, I got familiar with, then used to, it opening the circle on throttle while exiting corners. Got a bit bored of that once it became too predictable and set the above-mentioned geo settings, aiming for that shift of balance that @Galerion referred to, as I was setting more negative camber at the front than the rear and opening up front toe a bit. I wasn't looking for powerslides, just a bit of liveliness from the rear, with it telling me it wants to give up traction before the front does.

And while I don't object to deviating a bit from the tyre pressures Toyota recommends, I don't want my starting point in that pursuit for a shift of balance to be neither through:
  • turning my rear tyres into over-inflated balloons; nor
  • opening up the rear toe beyond what Toyota recommends.

*: which I never had a chance to know and keep in mind as a baseline, as the alignment people only told me that they didn't bother measuring the "before" settings once I challenged these settings on the sheet as random and impossible. Shame, as I was getting a bit of fishtailing on braking; so, it would be good to have an indication of what to avoid.
if you're Hampshire way pop over to Hampshire meet in July maybe
 
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if you're Hampshire way pop over to Hampshire meet in July maybe

Throw in a morning drive before the meet and I'll (try to keep up to) follow you.

(I should have new tyres, new geo settings and new toys fitted by then)

Or a nice drive anytime, anywhere and good pizza afterwards đŸ˜‰