GR Yaris Show us your aftermarket wheels.

Just a question drawn from curiosity. We are limited here to increasing track by no more than 25mm. Provided the wheels/tyres still sit within the guards, don't touch any part of the car etc etc. Track cannot be reduced. That limits us to P33 offset to P45. Do you guys in Europe have similar rules?
Nothing like that here in the UK. We are free to fit whatever sizes we want so long as they stay within the extremes of the wheel arches.
 
Our XR4 (ST150) track car runs much shallower offset than stock (about 25mm a side from memory) and spacers at the rear (illegal on the road here) and feels good. Another in the XR4 group of friends liked the 16s and how it looked so ran the same wheels with the same offset on the road and you could feel it affect turning with the changes to scrub radius etc. Never noticed anything on the track, too busy screaming I guess ;) He got used to it quite quickly but you could notice the difference between that and stock.
You're right. The scrub radius is affected. Since the GR basically has a fairly wide track, the 15mm per side are probably not immediately noticeable. With the narrow Elise (which also had uniball wishbone bushes) you even noticed when the front wheel weighed 7 instead of 6 kg. Since the yaris has electric steering, you just don't feel it as much as you used to in the good old days i think. My brother is getting his GR Yaris in december. I have to compare the cars back to back.
 
Just a little comment. Roads in Germany aren't too rutted compared to some other countries. Here they are rutted as hell and I can notice the difference between et45 and et40. It is subtle, but enough to know I wouldn't want to fit et30 over here as I prefer a 'clean' steering...
 
Just a little comment. Roads in Germany aren't too rutted compared to some other countries. Here they are rutted as hell and I can notice the difference between et45 and et40. It is subtle, but enough to know I wouldn't want to fit et30 over here as I prefer a 'clean' steering...
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Those too, but ruts are the worst under acceleration / braking. Basically two holes of 'infinite' length, along the length of the whole road, sometimes pretty deep...

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Luckily we don't have anything like that here. But the italian mountain passes are getting worse and worse....
 
@ehath28 I had GR OZ Ultraleggera's 8x18 et35 on my previous GR and thought I'd try the et30. Now I'm relatively sensitive in these things, I would say. The Yaris drives just like before. But of course I ride a relatively aggressive camber setup, you have to consider that. Yes, different wheels nuts. OEM studs. M12x1.5 cone collar 60° 110NM. They look great in the wheelarches , but don't stick out too much. That's how it should be from the factory in my opinion
Thanks for the thoughtful and thorough feedback.

I'm torn between these and Protrack One's, price is the same, weight is pretty much the same (I think 8.4kg and 8.5kg)

I will probably stick to the standard size, I haven't changed the camber setup and don't do enough track etc to justify it.
 
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You're right. The scrub radius is affected. Since the GR basically has a fairly wide track, the 15mm per side are probably not immediately noticeable. With the narrow Elise (which also had uniball wishbone bushes) you even noticed when the front wheel weighed 7 instead of 6 kg. Since the yaris has electric steering, you just don't feel it as much as you used to in the good old days i think. My brother is getting his GR Yaris in december. I have to compare the cars back to back.
To be honest I would be happy to stick with P45 to P40 at the pointy end but take as much as possible at the blunt end. I would even chance my insewerants and go P30. Not long after I picked up the GR, maybe Jan or Feb last year, someone was selling a set of forged unused basket weave style wheels, recognised Japanese manufacturer. Front was P45 and rear P35. Except fronts were 8.0" and rears 9.0". Considered 225/40 and 255/35, close enough in diameter according to my dealer. While the wheels were nice and light they were centrelock and with adapters for 5x114.3 it started getting messy swapping these which would be road to stock Enkeis for track. Maybe one day I will think about it again.
 
To be honest I would be happy to stick with P45 to P40 at the pointy end but take as much as possible at the blunt end. I would even chance my insewerants and go P30. Not long after I picked up the GR, maybe Jan or Feb last year, someone was selling a set of forged unused basket weave style wheels, recognised Japanese manufacturer. Front was P45 and rear P35. Except fronts were 8.0" and rears 9.0". Considered 225/40 and 255/35, close enough in diameter according to my dealer. While the wheels were nice and light they were centrelock and with adapters for 5x114.3 it started getting messy swapping these which would be road to stock Enkeis for track. Maybe one day I will think about it again.
Even if in theory those tyres have similar circumference, a staggered set-up with differing circumference could mess with the awd...
 
Circumference would need to be close but it is not undoable. I have seen wear patterns listed for these cars on the web, probably from people who are not rotating tyres often enough, which suggests they tolerate a reasonable difference. Staggered set up alone has no impact on the awd system. This car runs different diff ratios front to rear...
 
Circumference would need to be close but it is not undoable. I have seen wear patterns listed for these cars on the web, probably from people who are not rotating tyres often enough, which suggests they tolerate a reasonable difference. Staggered set up alone has no impact on the awd system. This car runs different diff ratios front to rear...
How do they wear?

That's my point, for the active power distribution to work, you don't want to mess upp the ratios too much. Staggered or even mixing tyre models or much different wear are all comprises.
 
Still waiting for my car, but winter tyres just got here. Tomason TN25 8x18 ET45 in Mattbronze with Nokian Hakkapeliitta 10 studded tyre to handle the nordic winter 👌19,1kg in total with TPMS.
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A question for those who know about wheels. Are Bola wheels any good? I know a number of people on here are running them without any issues, but I've seen mixed reports on other car forums.

I would only be using them as winters & don't want to spend big money on the wheels in case I damaged them.

I quite like the look of the Bola CSR, which are available as 18x8 ET42, which I believe will fit without any modifications, spacers, etc.


Thoughts / comments welcome 👍
 
A very well known car accessory outlet told me when I enquired after Bola wheels that they were fine for everyday road use but would not recommend them for track work or regular high performance driving.
 
I had some Bolas for my ford, we’re ok, although they were 5x108 the rim was stamped 5x120. Apparently they get drilled after making. I thought this was odd.
And it’ll be spring by the time you get these sorted🤣🤣🤣. Buy mine out of the classifieds and I’ll deliver them tomorrow 👍😉
 
I had some Bolas for my ford, we’re ok, although they were 5x108 the rim was stamped 5x120. Apparently they get drilled after making. I thought this was odd.
And it’ll be spring by the time you get these sorted🤣🤣🤣. Buy mine out of the classifieds and I’ll deliver them tomorrow 👍😉

This is something I know of a few wheel manufacturers doing.

It will be a generic wheel in terms of colour, diameter and width, made in Taiwan usually and then sent to local distributors.

When you order a PCD and offset from a local firm, they they get it machined to suit.

This one is a Bola sticker which was offset specified from factory, just wheel stud machining to be finished.

It’s one way for companies to reduce necessary stock, whilst keeping choice and lead time as good as possible, and also reducing costs.

I’ve never heard of any failures with Bola, for a road-only winter wheel I am sure they would be absolutely fine.

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