GR Yaris Rallye - Oh Too Easy
- Thread starter JonW
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I don't think you can lump Toyota Aus (or UK or whoever) in the same boat as a franchised dealership. Also why are you against celebrating woman in engineering? To try and keep it relevant to the OP, Toyota seeing this as important could end up improving the issues with staff and techs mentioned above...
JonW
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- Dec 16, 2021
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- #43
The issue for me is one of the extra 2 years of warranty I get if i use Toyota for servicing for every service. Here if i will accept just 5 years I can have the servicing done anywhere, even arguably do it myself - test cases have proven the words 'competent mechanic' can apply to DIYers at least as much as they do the apprentices that the main dealers use to do work... oh you thought all the guys working on your car had passed their college mechanics course? Im sure you knew that wasnt true really... lol
But I want those extra 2 years and to be honest the capped price services at $260 for every one for the first 3 years are cheap as or cheaper than anyone else who would do it in Sydney anyway.
The problem I see is that Toyota Japan (and Akio Toyoda) doesnt seem to understand that the local network of franchised dealers cant be expected to be able to look after the cool cars Toyota is moving into without help*. Im not after something quite as bespoke as the HSV setup, tho that sounds super cool, but something more akin to my local Subaru dealer would be good where at least the guys there (or some of them) actually like the cars and know stuff about them.
* - they already had issues in Aus with one of the GT86 recalls that involved replacing a valve spring, Toyota dealers had no idea how to work inside an engine, especially not a Boxer engine. Predictably, it was a debacle.
Oh and I should say that I am not a dealer hound. My Subaru has been independent serviced since new, it only visits the dealer for warranty and recalls, but they acquitted themselves very well for that. Subaru accepted all my warranty claims, even at the 11th hour of the 5year warranty with my non dealer stamped book. As they should!
Anyway, my experience is what it is. I just wanted to keep a diary of what i was doing with the car as I owned it on here and the first service let down was one of those that got a big write up. I hope its helpful for others who read it, I didnt mean it as a whinge, just stated what happened really. There should probably be a 'dealer whinge' thread, just not in this one lol
Anyway, thanks to those whove commented, I enjoy reading them and its nice to interact as this forum is a bit quiet in the GRY part these days.
But I want those extra 2 years and to be honest the capped price services at $260 for every one for the first 3 years are cheap as or cheaper than anyone else who would do it in Sydney anyway.
The problem I see is that Toyota Japan (and Akio Toyoda) doesnt seem to understand that the local network of franchised dealers cant be expected to be able to look after the cool cars Toyota is moving into without help*. Im not after something quite as bespoke as the HSV setup, tho that sounds super cool, but something more akin to my local Subaru dealer would be good where at least the guys there (or some of them) actually like the cars and know stuff about them.
* - they already had issues in Aus with one of the GT86 recalls that involved replacing a valve spring, Toyota dealers had no idea how to work inside an engine, especially not a Boxer engine. Predictably, it was a debacle.
Oh and I should say that I am not a dealer hound. My Subaru has been independent serviced since new, it only visits the dealer for warranty and recalls, but they acquitted themselves very well for that. Subaru accepted all my warranty claims, even at the 11th hour of the 5year warranty with my non dealer stamped book. As they should!
Anyway, my experience is what it is. I just wanted to keep a diary of what i was doing with the car as I owned it on here and the first service let down was one of those that got a big write up. I hope its helpful for others who read it, I didnt mean it as a whinge, just stated what happened really. There should probably be a 'dealer whinge' thread, just not in this one lol
Anyway, thanks to those whove commented, I enjoy reading them and its nice to interact as this forum is a bit quiet in the GRY part these days.
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Not against celebrating women in engineering at all, in fact I work with educational institutions on that very point. (And it should not just be on Mother's Day but every day).I don't think you can lump Toyota Aus (or UK or whoever) in the same boat as a franchised dealership. Also why are you against celebrating woman in engineering? To try and keep it relevant to the OP, Toyota seeing this as important could end up improving the issues with staff and techs mentioned above...
I should possibly have stated that as I was reading Jonw's post, the Toyota email popped into my inbox and it struck me that the email was about so many other things than performance cars or service. This is when car companies particularly lose their way trying to be all things to all people.
What attracted me to the GRY was the chairman's involvement and the use of Gazoo Racing to develop a quality product, I would expect quality service to back up the product and I do not worry about the gender of their workforce, greener mobility, electric cars, sports ticket offers, Toyota insurance or rental cars available at the dealership (all the topics covered in the email).
Frustrating reading Jon. I'm in Brisbane and where I bought my GR always came recommended for buying and servicing. They have been pleasant enough to deal with but the last two times I've been there they've overfilled the oil and the last time I've been the manager came running out of the building as I was driving off as he had to take the car back to the workshop as there was the "possibility that they had forgot to put back in the cabin filter".
And this is one of the Toyota dealers that had GR trained technicians. Doesn't exactly inspire alot of confidence when they overfill the oil twice and forget to put back in the cabin filter.
Same situation with the oil as well. Even though I always ask if it's definitely the correct grade of oil and I'm assured it is, you're just never quite sure if they're being truthful or if they couldn't give a fark and chucking in 10w-40.
And this is one of the Toyota dealers that had GR trained technicians. Doesn't exactly inspire alot of confidence when they overfill the oil twice and forget to put back in the cabin filter.
Same situation with the oil as well. Even though I always ask if it's definitely the correct grade of oil and I'm assured it is, you're just never quite sure if they're being truthful or if they couldn't give a fark and chucking in 10w-40.
JonW
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- Dec 16, 2021
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- #46
I found something out this week and am going to provide GRY owners some advice...
When you wash these cars make sure you drive them properly to clean the brakes off of any standing water. The disks have a high carbon content and surface rust quickly and this can stick the pads to the disks. A short back and forth on the driveway is not enough... how do I know?
Just this week I had all 4 pads stick to the disks and I had to drive the car 'off the brake pads' from 3 days of sitting after washing. The attendant 'bangs' as they released was very very loud.
After that you could hear the brake pads picking up and dropping as you drove - think someone tapping coconuts together pretending to be a horse. This is because there was build up on the disk face that lifts the pads up the disks against the springs that hold them, then clears and they drop back. Both times they hit the caliper edge.
This cleared after a short time (300m of so) but could still be felt under braking for another km or two of gentle braking in traffic. Then it was gone and normal service was returned.
Ok, not ideal. I doubt that did the pads much good. Mine now feel fine after a bunch of braking but as we know they are soft pads and im sure they are not as happy now as they were. Ahh well, maybe its time for new pads that dont dust as badly perhaps... so perhaps its not all bad lol
When you wash these cars make sure you drive them properly to clean the brakes off of any standing water. The disks have a high carbon content and surface rust quickly and this can stick the pads to the disks. A short back and forth on the driveway is not enough... how do I know?
Just this week I had all 4 pads stick to the disks and I had to drive the car 'off the brake pads' from 3 days of sitting after washing. The attendant 'bangs' as they released was very very loud.
After that you could hear the brake pads picking up and dropping as you drove - think someone tapping coconuts together pretending to be a horse. This is because there was build up on the disk face that lifts the pads up the disks against the springs that hold them, then clears and they drop back. Both times they hit the caliper edge.
This cleared after a short time (300m of so) but could still be felt under braking for another km or two of gentle braking in traffic. Then it was gone and normal service was returned.
Ok, not ideal. I doubt that did the pads much good. Mine now feel fine after a bunch of braking but as we know they are soft pads and im sure they are not as happy now as they were. Ahh well, maybe its time for new pads that dont dust as badly perhaps... so perhaps its not all bad lol
I parked mine over the weekend outside when I drove up Mt Buller, very cold, misty and rainy. Substantial amount of rust on the rotors which I did not think much about at the time. Just a sign that the rotors are high carbon. No ill effects noticed when I drove off probably because there was no moisture behind the pads. Did you use brake or wheel cleaner?
JonW
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- #48
Hmm. Yes I used some Sonax wheel cleaner... but I did do a lot of up and down the driveway (10m each way) trips to try and dry the disks, all i succeeded in doing was making it worse.
I quite often clean the wheels and leave the car sit on the drive and its not happening when i do that, just when you spread the water about...
JonW
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- Dec 16, 2021
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- #49
Fixed the little occasional rattle last week. It was from the base of the jack! So, feel lucky English people who dont have a jack in their cars! haha. I jammed a set of gloves I keep in the car into the rattly base plate and all is well again.
I also modded/fixed the battery drain hose which has been an issue for some people when the battery level has overflowed, during hard cornering i suspect.
Toyota, in their wisdom, decided that the hose only needed to exit the car and thus once through the grommet in the boot floor the hose simply ends. This means that any overflow from the battery exits onto the rear subframe and splashes the other components bolted to it. Great... they do know what comes down this tube is acid dont they?
Anyway, its a simple fix to add some length to the hose. Others have done it but no one has mentioned a couple of things:
1 - The hard work can be done from above
2 - You dont need to jack up the car to sort the underside work, you can reach in if you lay on your back with a flashlight to illuminate what's what
Open the boot, remove the boot floor covering and gently pull up on the hose/grommet while massaging the edges of the grommet.
With the hose in the car, push the grommet up about 1cm and then add the extender hose of your choice - Hint you need a length of <30cm but leave it long so you can route it where you like.
Refit the hose/grommet through the floor and make sure the grommet edges seal properly.
From under the car reach up behind the silencer box and route the hose where you want it to go. I did it to the back of the subframe to exit any fluid behind the subframe through its big strength/lightening holes.
Holding it in place was a bit of pain as I wanted to make sure that it would not flick any leakage around and also to stop it tapping on the subframe or something equally annoying on the motorway.
I looked at lots of options but just wanted to complete the job that day so went with a cable tie, not neat or pretty but works. With time you could find a proper hose/brakeline/fuel line clip that fits into one of the holes I used if you got creative. I had one that would have been great, Im sure it was a spare fuel line clip from a kit for some forgotten classic car I fixed up, but the hole was too large for its fixing to fit sadly or Id have done that.
So, I fitted a cable tie through a couple of drain / manufacturing holes in the lump that you can jack the car up on to hold the tube. Hint - Fold the end of the cable tie before you thread it up from the bottom (larger hole) and it will automatically pop out the smaller one above.
Snip the hose off at an angle, there is lots of chat about why vent tubes need to be finished with angles online lol I dont want me or anyone else to talk about why or how here.
And just like that its all done and you wont let any escaping acid eat your subframe.
I also modded/fixed the battery drain hose which has been an issue for some people when the battery level has overflowed, during hard cornering i suspect.
Toyota, in their wisdom, decided that the hose only needed to exit the car and thus once through the grommet in the boot floor the hose simply ends. This means that any overflow from the battery exits onto the rear subframe and splashes the other components bolted to it. Great... they do know what comes down this tube is acid dont they?
Anyway, its a simple fix to add some length to the hose. Others have done it but no one has mentioned a couple of things:
1 - The hard work can be done from above
2 - You dont need to jack up the car to sort the underside work, you can reach in if you lay on your back with a flashlight to illuminate what's what
Open the boot, remove the boot floor covering and gently pull up on the hose/grommet while massaging the edges of the grommet.
With the hose in the car, push the grommet up about 1cm and then add the extender hose of your choice - Hint you need a length of <30cm but leave it long so you can route it where you like.
Refit the hose/grommet through the floor and make sure the grommet edges seal properly.
From under the car reach up behind the silencer box and route the hose where you want it to go. I did it to the back of the subframe to exit any fluid behind the subframe through its big strength/lightening holes.
Holding it in place was a bit of pain as I wanted to make sure that it would not flick any leakage around and also to stop it tapping on the subframe or something equally annoying on the motorway.
I looked at lots of options but just wanted to complete the job that day so went with a cable tie, not neat or pretty but works. With time you could find a proper hose/brakeline/fuel line clip that fits into one of the holes I used if you got creative. I had one that would have been great, Im sure it was a spare fuel line clip from a kit for some forgotten classic car I fixed up, but the hole was too large for its fixing to fit sadly or Id have done that.
So, I fitted a cable tie through a couple of drain / manufacturing holes in the lump that you can jack the car up on to hold the tube. Hint - Fold the end of the cable tie before you thread it up from the bottom (larger hole) and it will automatically pop out the smaller one above.
Snip the hose off at an angle, there is lots of chat about why vent tubes need to be finished with angles online lol I dont want me or anyone else to talk about why or how here.
And just like that its all done and you wont let any escaping acid eat your subframe.
JonW
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- Dec 16, 2021
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- Thread starter
- #51
Ahh ok, well Ive seen some guys pics of splash marks from this tube so seems some of our cars do piddle a bit outThat tube is to vent hydrogen gas, not liquid. If liquid does come out then something has gone seriously wrong.
But a neat job anyway
Mine was clean I will say.EDITED: Here is a thread with some of the battery leaking info and also pg1 has a pic from Japan of a guy doing what i did with the hose, but slightly different run.
Battery issues
Splish splosh out it comes, not just from venting. It's the acid mix from that cell right next to the vent port. Other Jp cars have some right areas of acid attack looking at their pictures posted up. A gel battery would be a much smarter upgrade. good reason to upgrade battery.
www.gr-yaris.co.uk
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JonW
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- Dec 16, 2021
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- #52
So, which one of us is the idiot? (And no, its not you...).
Toyota say we should trust their dealers, I dont... I didnt on the day of service (not before and certainly not after), but how about now? hmm...
When I drove my car home from the service I thought '...this doesnt drive like it did...'. Since then Ive done about 200km on city streets and not had time to have a hoon in it really, but it felt not like it was... 'fidgety' is all I could come up with. I had little time to look at anything much and only snuck in the battery vent tube job between meetings etc.
Today I decided to do the tyre pressures on my fleet and even tho I specifically told Toyota to not touch my wheels the tech decided to put air in my tyres and obviously just used their 'standard setting' for something like a Hi Lux. Sigh... over inflated tyres are good for the environment I guess? uses less fuel... Er, no... the dealer should know, they are the kings of all things Toyota, right? Seems not.
I could quickly see that I had about 270-275 in all 4 tyres when it should be 200 on the rear and 220 on the front.
This is why we cant trust these fools to look after our cars, they truly have no idea.... Any Aussies reading this: Do NOT service your car at Pennant Hills Toyota.
I know people (me included) found over inflated tyres to be the evident on delivery, but I (wrongly) assumed this was the pressure from the factory for tyre fitting or shipping or something that slipped through the PDI. I didnt realise it was actually dealer techs who simply couldnt be bothered to read a small chart on how much air to put in tyres of the cars they sell.
C'mon, its not like its hard to do either; Main dealer air is on long hoses with digital screens and you just connect the hose to the valve and the electronics do the rest for you, it beeps when its done and you uncouple and move to the next wheel. I have a similar system at home from Jamec, its great.
Oh and talking of my Jamec, its a tested and certified unit that is accurate to +/- 0.3 p.s.i. @ 25-75 p.s.i. So, no its not like my home inflator is wildly inaccurate (most are) and Im the one with the wrong pressures, its a piece of pro kit.
Full info here as Im sure someone will ask lol: https://www.bits4blokes.com.au/~169
Anyway... Im really hoping i can find a dealer i can trust going forwards. Its a worry. I really wanted to get/keep my extra 2 years warranty (the 5+2 thing is only if you dealer service the car) and paying to have work done incorrectly that I specifically said I didnt want done is just plain mad; Im paying someone to actively work against me...
So, who is the idiot? Yeah, Im starting to think its me...
Toyota say we should trust their dealers, I dont... I didnt on the day of service (not before and certainly not after), but how about now? hmm...
When I drove my car home from the service I thought '...this doesnt drive like it did...'. Since then Ive done about 200km on city streets and not had time to have a hoon in it really, but it felt not like it was... 'fidgety' is all I could come up with. I had little time to look at anything much and only snuck in the battery vent tube job between meetings etc.
Today I decided to do the tyre pressures on my fleet and even tho I specifically told Toyota to not touch my wheels the tech decided to put air in my tyres and obviously just used their 'standard setting' for something like a Hi Lux. Sigh... over inflated tyres are good for the environment I guess? uses less fuel... Er, no... the dealer should know, they are the kings of all things Toyota, right? Seems not.
I could quickly see that I had about 270-275 in all 4 tyres when it should be 200 on the rear and 220 on the front.
This is why we cant trust these fools to look after our cars, they truly have no idea.... Any Aussies reading this: Do NOT service your car at Pennant Hills Toyota.
I know people (me included) found over inflated tyres to be the evident on delivery, but I (wrongly) assumed this was the pressure from the factory for tyre fitting or shipping or something that slipped through the PDI. I didnt realise it was actually dealer techs who simply couldnt be bothered to read a small chart on how much air to put in tyres of the cars they sell.
C'mon, its not like its hard to do either; Main dealer air is on long hoses with digital screens and you just connect the hose to the valve and the electronics do the rest for you, it beeps when its done and you uncouple and move to the next wheel. I have a similar system at home from Jamec, its great.
Oh and talking of my Jamec, its a tested and certified unit that is accurate to +/- 0.3 p.s.i. @ 25-75 p.s.i. So, no its not like my home inflator is wildly inaccurate (most are) and Im the one with the wrong pressures, its a piece of pro kit.
Full info here as Im sure someone will ask lol: https://www.bits4blokes.com.au/~169
Anyway... Im really hoping i can find a dealer i can trust going forwards. Its a worry. I really wanted to get/keep my extra 2 years warranty (the 5+2 thing is only if you dealer service the car) and paying to have work done incorrectly that I specifically said I didnt want done is just plain mad; Im paying someone to actively work against me...
So, who is the idiot? Yeah, Im starting to think its me...
Greenthumb
Totally Hooked
Sorry
As I read this....can anyone quickly explain how I can tell my car a new target tire pressure? I have new, bigger tires and they need kess poressure, but my car shows low pressure warning. But the pressure is exact what it has to be ?!?
Im happy I could get the new sensore to work, but now theres the next issue.
Btw...mine was delivered with way too much pressure. I drove all the way home and didnt feel happy with the suspension. Few days after and with 1000 km done I recognized that there was way too much pressure...wtf.....they said they service the car before they deliver it to buyer....what did they do? Remove the transport protection and thats it?
Im happy I could get the new sensore to work, but now theres the next issue.
Btw...mine was delivered with way too much pressure. I drove all the way home and didnt feel happy with the suspension. Few days after and with 1000 km done I recognized that there was way too much pressure...wtf.....they said they service the car before they deliver it to buyer....what did they do? Remove the transport protection and thats it?
Steve
Totally Hooked
Most people received their cars with ‘transit’ pressures (39-40 PSI all around). I think Toyota garages just have the air hose set to automatic, stuck at 40, and go around every car at the end of any work topping them up.
Locking valve caps is the answer. Or just make a point of deflating them with a pressure gauge before driving away.
Locking valve caps is the answer. Or just make a point of deflating them with a pressure gauge before driving away.
