GR86 One for all GR86 Owners: PCV Valve

ZN8

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 29, 2021
2,052
3,722
353
Kent
Hi folks, was bored on the train last night and ended up finding some interesting information that should be shared.

There have a been a few reported cases of sudden excessive oil consumption on the FA24, mainly from the US, (but also someone on this forum too, still undiagnosed). It turns out the culprit is likely to be this…

1713967882578.png


This being the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. Its purpose is to ventilate excessive crankcase pressure back into the intake system. This valve is located on top of the engine block at the back of the intake manifold and plumbs from the block into the top of the intake tube.

1713968290831.png
1713968313020.jpeg


The valve itself is not particularly complex and operates similarly to a check valve, there is a spring and ‘plug’ within the valve body, this picture gives a good idea of how it works.

1713967870123.png


If the PCV system does not operate correctly you will build excessive crankcase pressure and increase blowby, which not only is unhealthy for the oil as it increases contamination from fuel and moisturise, it can cause oil leaks and consumption of this diluted mix as it burns off, or is pushed past the piston rings. When this is the case, oil consumption can go through the roof, if you aren’t vigilant with checking the oil level and have traditionally trusted your engine not to use oil, there is a possibility of having an engine failure from oil starvation.

I wasn’t aware of this until last night, but Subaru PCVs have a bit of a reputation for failing, in some circles it seems to be recommended that they should be treated as a consumable and replaced periodically (some sources say every 30k), they are inexpensive (<£20) and are relatively easy to replace, it's a case of pulling off the rubber hose (not clamped) and unscrewing it off the block.

Not trying to cause hysteria with this as it’s not a prolific problem, but much like my other post on the taillight clearance, it’s one to keep an eye on. So with that in mind, make sure you check you oil regularly, if you find you are suddenly burning oil, check your PCV valve and add a replacement valve to your maintenance regime. 👍
 
I was reading the thread about this on the US forum the other day. I'm going to keep it in mind; my previous gen car never used a drop of oil between services, but I think the GR is. Need to do a thorough test as my mileage is much lower now, but I will keep this in mind. Great post.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ZN8
Mine was the same, never used oil between services, but apparently it was a recommended to replace it on the FA20 too.
 
I'm guessing failures are just caused by it getting clogged with debris. Is it possible to clean it by just giving it a good squirt of brake cleaner, or petrol, do we think? It is after all, very simple - just a spring loaded piston. So hopefully there's little risk of damaging it.
 
I've read some people do it and the results are mixed, the general consensus is it costs less than £20 for a brand new one so why bother. You'll spend half that for some brake cleaner.
 
Warm engine a bit, turn off.
Open oil filler.
Fit rubber glove over filler neck, secure with some gaffer tape.
Start engine.

It the glove fills and gives you a hi 5 the valve is knackered.👍
 
I've been thinking about this every so often for a while now. I kept meaning to buy a new valve but I couldn't seem to find one to order online. Couldn't be bothered with phoning Toyota to order one, so I just left it. Then I found the part on eBay...not a proper OEM one, but matching part number. I figured for £10 or so it was worth a punt: https://ebay.us/m/NifJHa

Took my old valve off today and think it was definitely in need of attention. A dribble of oil came out of the hose when I pulled it off, and when given a shake you could barely hear the valve inside. Made a kind of dull noise, as opposed to the clear, clicky metallic noise of the new part. I put the new Chinese part on as I had it, and hopefully it's not complicated enough to cause any sort of critical failure if it's lower quality. The good news is though, that I sprayed some brake cleaner through the old valve and seemed to restore it. So I shall keep in safely in case I need to swap back.

Replacement is easy, tiny bit fiddly. 22mm deep socket with an articulating adapter on a socket extension is all you'll need (video on procedure below). Hardest bit was pulling the hose off, you just need to really hit it with your purse and you'll be fine. There's no clamps or anything, it just pulls off. Maybe do it with the engine warm to the rubber is a bit more supple.

Oh, and the old valve had a touch of sealant (I guess RTV) around the thread. I just used some PTFE tape when putting the new one in. Didn't torque it too much, just tight then a touch more, and after a quick drive with some hard acceleration, nothing leaked.

Oil level checked and it's a touch over max. I'll see how it looks after a few months.

Used this video as a fitting guide:


And this is a good example of good vs. bad valves:
 
Been about 3 months now, and decided to check the oil today. Disappointed to see that it had dropped a fair bit....perhaps a quarter of the way above the min mark. Stupidly, I didn't check the mileage when I put that valve in, but I haven't done many miles since...but have done a few quite hard drives recently. But it anything, it feels like it might have used more oil. Perhaps the valve I installed was actually worse, being a pattern part. Perhaps I'll stump up for a proper OEM one. Even considering putting the old one that I cleaned back in.
 
After the holiday I had to put 600ml in. Noted mileages and will check again in 500 miles. May ring Toyota today to see if they'll just do it under warranty but I'm fully expecting the run around. Need to anyway for that camera. In my head I'd like to drop car off one day, get courtesy car and collect after work but that's too easy.