GR Yaris Oil cooling setup build help

MarkoS

Totally Hooked
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Decided to make custom oil cooling setup inspired by Diyman25 from other forum (already have spare bumper with fog light plastic and inner arch).
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I'd use Mocal 115mm matrix 13row (one in the link is 12JIC - I'm clueless about those marks) since it's narrow and would fit nicely.
Need to find sandwich plate like the one below (polished and with angled ports for max ground clearance) and hoses and fittings that match.
sandwich.webp

Main goal is to lose as little oil pressure as possible while keeping the oil below 125C in extreme conditions. So far I reached 128C at ambient 37C, but wasn't pushing 100% and the run was only 8-9 miles.
I do not track, only B and mountain road blasting.
I'm mostly confused by the fitting marks, not sure which fits what and which sandwich plate to get.
Any help is welcome, thank you!
 
I made my own custom oil cooler too. You don't really need a angled sandwich plate just use 90 degree fittings .

I used a HEL sandwich plate, 10 AN JIC fittings and 10 AN hose. The center bolt is 3/4 UNF.


 
Thanks for info, it does look nice.
Does the center bolt have to be 3/4, or can I go for M20x1.5?
 
OK! Cheers!

Getting closer to my setup:
- Sandwich multiangle -10 AN JIC
- 2x -10 AN JIC 45 degree fittings
- 3m stainless steel hose
- 2x -10 AN JIC 120 degree fittings (for cooler)
- Mocal Oil Cooler 13 Row -10JIC (115)

Anything else I need to complete the loop and plug n' pray?
 
Search YouTube on how to cut stainless steel hose and install the fittings. Stainless steel hose can fray badly when it is cut. I found it can depend on the quality of the hose how badly it frays.
 
Wrap tape around steel braid stop it fraying when cutting and then use grease when pushing hoses onto fittings and good luck with that as not easy

id normally remove the thermostat to maximise flow but up to you

v rewarding once all done though
 
Wrap tape around steel braid stop it fraying when cutting and then use grease when pushing hoses onto fittings and good luck with that as not easy

id normally remove the thermostat to maximise flow but up to you

v rewarding once all done though
Didn't know thermostat messes up the flow, thanks.
Could do it without thermostat and keep the black plastic (above fog light) as a cover for winter days when the oil takes long to heat up.

I also don't like how at winter with thermostat, once oil reaches threshold temp. all that cold oil from cooler rushes through hot engine.
 
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once oil reaches threshold temp. all that cold oil from cooler rushes through hot engine.
the thermostat doesn't completely block the flow, there's a small stream of hot engine oil always flowing through the system for that exact reason so when does open its not shock to engine

yes better to remove and block air flow in winter and then get max benefit in hotter conditions
 
If you are simply worried about the engine oil running too cool in winter then use a thermostatic plate with a higher cut off point like the HEL one (92c). This will keep the oil circulating through the main engine/wet sump for longer before opening fully to the oil cooler. Generally speaking oil temps of 80c or above should be fine for the engine. Modern engines typically run oil around 90-95 for emissions reasons. The factory dash light turns off an allows you to drive with full rev range from around 62c which is far too low for full rpm IMO...
 
Decided to make custom oil cooling setup inspired by Diyman25 from other forum (already have spare bumper with fog light plastic and inner arch).
View attachment 10011View attachment 10012View attachment 10013
I'd use Mocal 115mm matrix 13row (one in the link is 12JIC - I'm clueless about those marks) since it's narrow and would fit nicely.
Need to find sandwich plate like the one below (polished and with angled ports for max ground clearance) and hoses and fittings that match.
View attachment 10010
Main goal is to lose as little oil pressure as possible while keeping the oil below 125C in extreme conditions. So far I reached 128C at ambient 37C, but wasn't pushing 100% and the run was only 8-9 miles.
I do not track, only B and mountain road blasting.
I'm mostly confused by the fitting marks, not sure which fits what and which sandwich plate to get.
Any help is welcome, thank you!
Had similar requirements, used Setrab Series1 25 row as it has low oil pressure loss and similar cooling characteristics as for instance Series6 13 row. Generally, the less rows and/or longer the cooler, the more pressure losses there will be. Using nowadays also 90'C thermo and it seems to work well. Occasionally good to get oil temps above 100'C just to remove and excess water etc.
here's some specs from Setrab & Mocal
 
Are you sure about the number of rows and pressure loss? At first I'd think more rows is more pressure loss? I am looking at mocal 115 and setrab slim 140, not decided yet. Setrab got upper mount point only at 13+ rows i think. 10 rows got only bottom mounting points telling from photos.
 
Are you sure about the number of rows and pressure loss? At first I'd think more rows is more pressure loss? I am looking at mocal 115 and setrab slim 140, not decided yet. Setrab got upper mount point only at 13+ rows i think. 10 rows got only bottom mounting points telling from photos.
its simple physics - add new channel (more rows) halves the pressure needed. More oil channels -> less pressure.
Its easily identifiable in Setrab charts (linked above) in delta P column.
 
Had a wrong idea of a "snake" flow - one line with many bends, not parallel through all rows. Thanks for clearing it up for me.
 
Decided to make custom oil cooling setup inspired by Diyman25 from other forum (already have spare bumper with fog light plastic and inner arch).
View attachment 10011View attachment 10012View attachment 10013
I'd use Mocal 115mm matrix 13row (one in the link is 12JIC - I'm clueless about those marks) since it's narrow and would fit nicely.
Need to find sandwich plate like the one below (polished and with angled ports for max ground clearance) and hoses and fittings that match.
View attachment 10010
Main goal is to lose as little oil pressure as possible while keeping the oil below 125C in extreme conditions. So far I reached 128C at ambient 37C, but wasn't pushing 100% and the run was only 8-9 miles.
I do not track, only B and mountain road blasting.
I'm mostly confused by the fitting marks, not sure which fits what and which sandwich plate to get.
Any help is welcome, thank you!
Do similar setup, but core on the right side, independed thermostat and eliminate OEM charge cooler. I don't want sandwich with fittings down or forward
img_0729-jpeg.45243
 
I opted for the HEL race variant with thermostat opening at 92c. No cutting required apart from a plastic deflector next to the left headlight. Worth noting that Hel is not very explicit about the opening of the thermostat, I doubt it starts to open from 92c as I can feel the radiator is hot when oil reaches around 78c, which is not a bad thing regarding cruise operating temps. It adds up an extra ~0.6l to the overall oil circuit capacity. Oil went up to 132c in Spa track day last year, but outside temp was high, 36c. Let's see how much this improves situation.

I'm sometimes a bit wary about ground clearance seen on some kits, but not with the one offered by HEL.

Yaris_Cooler.webp
Yaris_SPlate.webp
 
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