GR.KEV
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I am suffering low boost, what was the outcome off this in the end?

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When?I am suffering low boost, what was the outcome off this in the end?![]()
The ECU strategy limits boost in certain situations to protect the engine, because OEM, warranty etc.I am suffering low boost, what was the outcome off this in the end?![]()
The OEM ECU is like grandma sitting in the back seat saying "well f&*k you, you can't do that".The ECU strategy limits boost in certain situations to protect the engine, because OEM, warranty etc.
Whether you find that to be reasonable/tolerable is up to you.
It’s had Collins remap, been running bang on!The OEM ECU is like grandma sitting in the back seat saying "well f&*k you, you can't do that".![]()
Oh. You may need to take it back to Mr Collins.It’s had Collins remap, been running bang on!
Even put the original airbox back on, and changed the boost solenoid, will do the 20 mins re boot, then different fuel![]()
What fuel are you running and when is it happening?It’s had Collins remap, been running bang on!
Even put the original airbox back on, and changed the boost solenoid, will do the 20 mins re boot, then different fuel![]()
Recent remap? My first revision of the Litchfield EcuTek map kept randomly falling off boost between gear shifts and they said they and possibly others have seen the same thing under certain conditions so have since revised it. In my instance it was all captured on the app. Reflashed with revised map and all good so I’d advise getting back in contact with Collins perhaps.It’s had Collins remap, been running bang on!
Even put the original airbox back on, and changed the boost solenoid, will do the 20 mins re boot, then different fuel![]()
that’s what solved it for me. Original box and MAF sensor placement etc + the 20 minute battery-off-reset thing.It’s had Collins remap, been running bang on!
Even put the original airbox back on, and changed the boost solenoid, will do the 20 mins re boot, then different fuel![]()
In the end just like what @Sturesmyg said, put back CAI to stock standard or go ecu management system.I am suffering low boost, what was the outcome off this in the end?![]()
I do love my MST , and it’s cost a lot, I have put std std airbox on and it’s the same, have disconnected the battery for an hour, but not tried it yet, as my back has failed me!In the end just like what @Sturesmyg said, put back CAI to stock standard or go ecu management system.
I did everything I could, (delayed putting my stock box, because I liked how the MST sounded, but also paid a good chunck of change for it!!) but in the end that’s what seems to solve the problem.
It might be a bit unfair as I have friends who have open pod filters and eventuri etc, but my guess is the stock ecu on this car is shit and doesn’t allow a lot of tolerance (for SOME, not all cars, like my own). Coming from European cars, I think their ecu has a much high threshold when you introduce a CAI/Exhaust as you’re changing how much air is now going into the car. I think this ecu in particular as the guys at Motive have said, this is one sensitive ecu. As soon as more air is introduced, the car probably freaks out and pulls back boost as it’s recognising more air is coming in, but is unable to change the fuel ratio to match.
Stand-alone ecu would be awesome, but very expensive, although I’m sure you could leave on your intake that you paid for a fraction in price compared to the ecu lol
Has anyone who’s suffered from this issue changed the MAF sensor yet? I wonder if the P/N has been superseded or if there is a variance in part numbers between manufacture years etc? I maybe barking up the wrong tree but surely it’s just a case of software & senso
Ecutek was my solution, remap last week.From what I recall the MAF sensor is not specific to GR Yaris, and is shared across many models. I believe even the highlander, and the likes of Lexus GS use it
If you're going to go down the rabbit hole of just going brrrrrt with the parts canon, may I suggest you simply purchase a ECUTEK tune and be done with the issue entirely
Assuming an ECUTEK tune re-calibrates the MAF resistance values tells me it’s hard written into the ECU’s tables that can’t be simply reset/recalibrated with a battery disconnection for 20 minutes procedure.From what I recall the MAF sensor is not specific to GR Yaris, and is shared across many models. I believe even the highlander, and the likes of Lexus GS use it
If you're going to go down the rabbit hole of just going brrrrrt with the parts canon, may I suggest you simply purchase a ECUTEK tune and be done with the issue entirely