GR86 GR86 - The clutch pedal thread

Went for a longer drive yesterday with the pedal commander and I must say I will keep it. On my way back I turned it off and I could definitely feel the lack of throttle response on the first 30% or so of the throttle.

Getting out of junctions is much easier as you just need about 5% of throttle to get it to stable 1.5/2k rpm’s, however you need to be carful as it is a bit too sensitive. I always had some issue parking the car in my driveway backwards because it has a small bump and with the Pedal commander it was just easier.

I tested all the mods and in my case I won’t be using anything else then the city mode.

There are 8 responsive modes within the city mode, for a normal drive -4 (responsive) is the way to go, similar to stock but less input delay. If you want to get more sporty 0 (or even +4) it’s better, but be careful if you have tc/vsc off as it will put you sideways pretty easy (it was raining yesterday, so it could be different when dry)

Even thought it reduces the input delay you can still feel it a little bit, but better.

Also, heel and toe became easier, but because I was used to the stock now I find my self over revving, but that’s just a case of getting used to it.

Having all of this said, this goes down to personal reference, I believe some of you might not enjoy, specially if you are already used to the stock, but in any case you always have 30 days to return it.

It’s a bit expensive (190£) but I prefer that to tune, as I can easily remove it in case I need to go to Toyota for a service or something.

I left the controller hidden near the pedal, since I can control it via Bluetooth app.

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NunoHenriques said:
Went for a longer drive yesterday with the pedal commander and I must say I will keep it. On my way back I turned it off and I could definitely feel the lack of throttle response on the first 30% or so of the throttle.

Getting out of junctions is much easier as you just need about 5% of throttle to get it to stable 1.5/2k rpm’s, however you need to be carful as it is a bit too sensitive. I always had some issue parking the car in my driveway backwards because it has a small bump and with the Pedal commander it was just easier.

I tested all the mods and in my case I won’t be using anything else then the city mode.

There are 8 responsive modes within the city mode, for a normal drive -4 (responsive) is the way to go, similar to stock but less input delay. If you want to get more sporty 0 (or even +4) it’s better, but be careful if you have tc/vsc off as it will put you sideways pretty easy (it was raining yesterday, so it could be different when dry)

Even thought it reduces the input delay you can still feel it a little bit, but better.

Also, heel and toe became easier, but because I was used to the stock now I find my self over revving, but that’s just a case of getting used to it.

Having all of this said, this goes down to personal reference, I believe some of you might not enjoy, specially if you are already used to the stock, but in any case you always have 30 days to return it.

It’s a bit expensive (190£) but I prefer that to tune, as I can easily remove it in case I need to go to Toyota for a service or something.

I left the controller hidden near the pedal, since I can control it via Bluetooth app.
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Easy to install? Just plug and play right?
Also, you haven't done clutch mod have you, it's just the box?


I haven't done the clutch mod despite owning the spring because I am mechanically challenged...

But this looks like it'll be plug and play
 
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James-UK said:
Easy to install? Just plug and play right?
Also, you haven't done clutch mod have you, it's just the box?
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Kind of eheh
Removing the stock throttle plug was a pain, I spent about 20 mins trying to remove because the position that you are in is not comfortable at all, almost to the point that I was about to quit. But after you remove it, it's 5 seconds job. It's just plug and play.
I opened the car and put the keys far away so there was no connection with the ECU (due to keyless) and after about 10 mins I started the job.

Yap no clutch mod, I am actually ok with the clutch.
 
Thanks for that input

The throttle is obviously more responsive as you initially depress it but does it become hyper sensitive as you get deeper into the pedal travel?
 
Was just thinking today the clutch feels great with the spring change.

Will do the clutch pedal height sometime too
 
doogle83 said:
Well the answer there seems obvious then! :ROFLMAO:
🏎️ 💨
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Yeah…but I can’t really be bothered to faff about changing a spring 🤣 Also, why didn’t the manufacturers learn, you tube is full of spring modification videos!
 
Conscript said:
LC120M03S
I did think about going for a lighter one, but that one is the closest match to the MTEC, which I was happy with.
Thinking about it, for the sake of a couple of quid extra, perhaps I should have ordered both and then I could experiment...but I've already got a bad back just thinking about getting into that footwell, so not sure I could do it twice :D
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Thanks to @ZN8 I've now been able to fit another clutch spring which is about 75% lighter than stock (LC095L02M) spring, as he ordered a lighter one but was happy with the MTEC equivalent strength, and was happy to donate the unused one to me.

The result is about as I expected....it's improved the feel of the clutch even more. It's not as big an improvement as moving from stock to the MTEC equivalent spring (which is about 58% weaker), but I now can't feel the point where the clutch pedal pivots on the spring at all. It's now weak enough that it doesn't seem to be providing any meaningful assistance to pushing the clutch down, which means that most of the resistance I can feel must be from the clutch itself.

The clutch pedal does feel heavier as a result, but it's by no means a problem or obstructive. No heavier than most other manual cars I've driven. As I said a few months ago, really it's just averaging out the force required throughout the whole pedal travel; it doesn't feel like the pedal effort changes when you reach that point where the spring pivots from pushing the pedal up, to helping push it down.

I can see why many in the US ditch the spring entirely...that would give you maximum feedback by ensuring the only force pushing back against your foot is that of the clutch plate itself. But of course you'll end up with a mushy pedal as it won't return to its top position. I guess the ultimate solution is to fit the weakest spring you can find...literally just strong enough to keep the pedal from being slack.
 
Conscript said:
Thanks to @ZN8 I've now been able to fit another clutch spring which is about 75% lighter than stock (LC095L02M) spring, as he ordered a lighter one but was happy with the MTEC equivalent strength, and was happy to donate the unused one to me.

The result is about as I expected....it's improved the feel of the clutch even more. It's not as big an improvement as moving from stock to the MTEC equivalent spring (which is about 58% weaker), but I now can't feel the point where the clutch pedal pivots on the spring at all. It's now weak enough that it doesn't seem to be providing any meaningful assistance to pushing the clutch down, which means that most of the resistance I can feel must be from the clutch itself.

The clutch pedal does feel heavier as a result, but it's by no means a problem or obstructive. No heavier than most other manual cars I've driven. As I said a few months ago, really it's just averaging out the force required throughout the whole pedal travel; it doesn't feel like the pedal effort changes when you reach that point where the spring pivots from pushing the pedal up, to helping push it down.

I can see why many in the US ditch the spring entirely...that would give you maximum feedback by ensuring the only force pushing back against your foot is that of the clutch plate itself. But of course you'll end up with a mushy pedal as it won't return to its top position. I guess the ultimate solution is to fit the weakest spring you can find...literally just strong enough to keep the pedal from being slack.
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I'm going to order a spring from Lee Springs so given the choice of the two springs from them that you've tried, which would you choose?

I'm going to order enough to qualify for free postage then list the extra springs on eBay ... Seems to make sense
 
Bluemanc100 said:
I'm going to order a spring from Lee Springs so given the choice of the two springs from them that you've tried, which would you choose?

I'm going to order enough to qualify for free postage then list the extra springs on eBay ... Seems to make sense
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I'd go for the lighter spring. Still have it fitted and am happy with how the clutch feels.
 
Conscript said:
Further to the instructions above, here's a video showing the clutch pedal adjustment for a right-hand drive vehicle. It's for a first gen, but I assume (going by that step by step from GR86.org) that the assembly is the same, so this still applies.



You need to be a bit of a contortionist to do this. Easiest way was to put a pillow or something on the bottom of the door where the kickplates are, then lie on your back in the footwell with your feet outside the car. Might raise few of the neighbours' eyebrows though.
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Following up on this. Been running with a weaker clutch spring for several months and and it's a definite improvement in the weight and feel of the clutch. Been overall happy, but still had the sense that the pedal and bite point was physically a little higher than I'd like, like in the first gen. I'm not overly tall, nor particularly long of leg, bit even with my seat in its usual position all the way back, it still felt like I was having to lift my leg unnaturally high to fully release the clutch. This combined with me being quite a relaxed driver (ie, I tend not to come off the pedal quickly even when driving hard) meant that still quite often I'd find myself slipping the clutch a little too much sometimes.

Got upside down in the footwell this afternoon and had a look. As with the GT, the clutch pedal sits significantly higher than the brake. Not easy to measure it, but it was around 15-20mm higher I'd say. Did the same procedure as in the video quoted from the first gen. Gave the adjustment rod one full turn anticlockwise and it's brought the pedal down a smidge. Still higher than the brake pedal not as pronounced.

It's made an immediate improvement for me. The clutch bite point now feels closer to the firewall and I find timing it with the gas much more natural feeling and less like I have to think about it. This might sound odd, but before it felt like I was controlling the clutch from my thigh...now it feels like I'm doing so from my foot and have better control of it. Went for a quick drive and I found it much easier to change gear quickly without over revving. Awesome.

Also noticed that was able to time heel and toe downshifts a bit quicker. I've never been very good at doing heel and toe anyway, but it certainly feels like not being able to time the clutch release with blipping the throttle certainly wasn't helping.
 
Conscript said:
Anticlockwise when looking at the firewall, which tightens the thread in the clevis.
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First thing I have done to mine since collection. It seems from factory they just adjust the rod to the pedals natural resting position then bolt it all up.

Just a word of warning when doing this not to adjust the pedal too far down as you risk the clutch not fully disengaging when shifting gear. One to two turns of the rod should be plenty. Easy to test on a hill in first gear though. Just push the clutch in and you will roll backwards once fully disengaged. If it is dragging you will feel it and also have crunchy gear changes.

You also need to adjust the clutch switch as well as the pedals resting point has now changed.
 
Fitted my GKtech spring today. The 66% one. Combined with adjusting the clutch it is a lot better now. Still think I might get the accel pedal extender just to finish it off.

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Does anybody who has done the clutch pedal spring mod have the torque settings for the bolts

I’ll tighten then till they break if not then back them off a little 😉
 
8NM for the bolts holding the clutch assembly to the chassis. Too low for my torque wrench, so just a nip up .
 
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