GR86 GR86 - The clutch pedal thread

[KobayashiMaru86]

I've found you drive it harder and it's perfect for me. Traffic is fine but there is the spot between 3-6 tenths it sometimes catches me out but I don't think I'll change anything just yet. I'd prefer to try and adapt myself first.

 

[Conscript]

I've found you drive it harder and it's perfect for me. Traffic is fine but there is the spot between 3-6 tenths it sometimes catches me out but I don't think I'll change anything just yet. I'd prefer to try and adapt myself first.

Yup, it's definitely easier driving harder. When you're coming off the clutch quickly you don't notice the weird changing in pressure toward the top.
I spend a lot of time not driving all that hard though, so I prefer it now I've made it more linear.

Gone for LC120M03S. The car has many little irritating flaws as I'm getting used to it, hopefully this fixes the clutch.

Why would they release the GR86 like this, was that what made it £30k? I'd sooner have paid an extra £5k to have all its faults sorted.

I don't think it's the result of penny pinching. I'm guessing someone somewhere specified that the clutch should have a maximum pedal force when applied, so they put a beefy spring into the pedal to assist.

 

[ZN8]

I don't think it's the result of penny pinching. I'm guessing someone somewhere specified that the clutch should have a maximum pedal force when applied, so they put a beefy spring into the pedal to assist.

Yeah it's not penny pinching. I mean it's a spring, it exists in the first place, it's not like something is missing, in fact the beefier stock spring will be more expensive.

Nothing on the car would be an afterthought, but there will always be a compromise. I imagine it was done to balance the control weights, both the steering and gear change are quite light. With the new spring the added force needed for the clutch does make it more imbalanced but that trade off is worth it, I've done about 120 miles with the new spring and now using the clutch has become completely subconscious, I wasn't sure at first but now I am.

 

[KobayashiMaru86]

Tempted to try this if people are saying it's a profound change. Hopefully it's not that hard to do.

 

[GRpirate]

I have not had much trouble with the clutch on 2300 miles now. I do find that thick soled trainers are not the best for driving it. What I have noticed is if you leave a little more throttle on when change gear it smooths it out at Lower speeds. I agree it’s not any issue at all if you are getting a move on. Heel an toe is easy enough when getting a move on but I find it tricky at lower speeds. I am a bit intrigued by the spring change though

 

[KobayashiMaru86]

Had a look to try and visualise doing it just now and it's going to be a struggle for me. I can get in and I'll need to be a contortionist to do some of it. Getting out was hard work. In summary is it this?

- Unclip connectors
- take out clip and pin. Will need long nose pliers to push wings in on the pin
- undo 1x 12mm bolt on firewall
- undo 2x 12mm bolts in engine bay. Use tape so you don't lose them
- Remove assembly, minding that bit of metal
- Small flathead to remove clips off the pins holding the spring in
- Install new spring. I don't have a vice so I'll have to get some more cable ties
- Put assembly back in car but only loosely which will help getting the rod back in with the winged pin and clip.
- Tighten it all back up
- Put connectors back in
- Test

 

[Conscript]

Had a look to try and visualise doing it just now and it's going to be a struggle for me. I can get in and I'll need to be a contortionist to do some of it. Getting out was hard work. In summary is it this?

- Unclip connectors
- take out clip and pin. Will need long nose pliers to push wings in on the pin
- undo 1x 12mm bolt on firewall
- undo 2x 12mm bolts in engine bay. Use tape so you don't lose them
- Remove assembly, minding that bit of metal
- Small flathead to remove clips off the pins holding the spring in
- Install new spring. I don't have a vice so I'll have to get some more cable ties
- Put assembly back in car but only loosely which will help getting the rod back in with the winged pin and clip.
- Tighten it all back up
- Put connectors back in
- Test

Think that's pretty much it. Although I wonder if it might be a bit of a pain without a vice to compress the new spring enough to secure it with cable ties.

 

[Grblue86]

Think that's pretty much it. Although I wonder if it might be a bit of a pain without a vice to compress the new spring enough to secure it with cable ties.

I want to know that too, can you do the swap without a vice?

 

[Conscript]

I used a vice to compress the new spring while I got cable ties around it prior to installation, and then to hold the entire clutch pedal assembly securely while taking the spring off/replacing it with the new one.

I don't suppose it's essential for the latter - you could probably just as easily work on the assembly while it's just sitting on the bench. I just found it easier to mount it upright like that, which gave me two hands to remove/reattach the spring holder.

However, the springs really are quite strong, so you need a way to compress them before refitting. A bench vice is ideal because it's study and well mounted, but I suppose you could do it almost as easily with a hand held G-clamp or similar. You don't need to compress it for long; get some cable ties wrapped around as many of the coils as you can, pull them tight, then compress the spring, pull them tighter, release the spring and it should stay compressed enough to make it easy to reattach to the pedal assembly when you need to.

Just make sure whatever you do you use some common sense. As I said these springs are very strong for their size, so I take no responsibility if you do something silly and end up with a fancy new nose piercing.

 

[KobayashiMaru86]

Another option is using a jack to jack it underneath my work bench to compress it, cable ties, job done.

 

[midlife_sportscar]

A nut and bolt with a couple of big washers would make a good spring compression tool

 

[ZN8]

Depending on what you have to hand I'd put a bolt through the spring with a couple of bits of plate with a hole drilled (or massive penny washers) at either end of the spring then compress it by screwing a nut on the end.

Another simpler option, although maybe not as effective, is to get a pair of pliers in between 2 or 3 of coils, compress those and get a cable tie round them. You would never be able to do that with the stock spring but you don't need to, the weaker replacement is easier.

 

[WpR]

I followed a tutorial on YouTube. Compressing by hand worked just fine, a cm or 2 compression was enough, no need for fancy solutions imo.

 

[Bathroom_Security]

For anyone interested I have ordered the one for the brz as they told me it’s the same

Amazon product ASIN B074BFL6NS
Cheaper then sending it from the US

Did yours arrive yet?

Want to know of it just exaggerates the inputs or if it actually makes it feel linier

Thanks

 

[Dal3D]

I jumped in mine for the first time in over a week today (started 1st time) and didn't even notice the clutch being "weird"

Not sure that means anything lol

 

[Bathroom_Security]

The throttle response is making my urine boil.

Genuinely would remap the car and forefit the 10 yr warranty to make it linier and responsive it's that bad.

 

[NunoHenriques]

Did yours arrive yet?

Want to know of it just exaggerates the inputs or if it actually makes it feel linier

Thanks

Hey,
Yes it did arrived on Monday, but only had time to plug in yesterday.
I definitely feel the difference, but I still need to do a few more tests, need to go somewhere without traffic.

Forget about the "sport & sport+" capability unless you want to drift out of every junction.
What I feel now leaving junctions (In city mode) is that it's easier to put the revs where you want. The first gear now feels that you really only use it to put the car going, because the throttle is so responsive that at the minimum input the car will respond.

What I am still testing is the input lag, I think it's still there a little bit, but later today I will go to a car park or something without traffic so I can test everything properly and will let you know

 

[NunoHenriques]

The throttle response is making my urine boil.

Genuinely would remap the car and forefit the 10 yr warranty to make it linier and responsive it's that bad.

Have you tried to "Reset" the throttle sensor?
I did it before the Pedal commander and I noticed a difference.

- Get in the car and switch on the ignition (don't start the engine).
- Depress the throttle pedal 5 times. Be sure to do it fully each time, all the way down and back up.
- Start the engine and allow it to idle for 30 seconds or so while the cam timing sorts itself out.

source:

Throttle delay

www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk

 

[Conscript]

Have you tried to "Reset" the throttle sensor?
I did it before the Pedal commander and I noticed a difference.

- Get in the car and switch on the ignition (don't start the engine).
- Depress the throttle pedal 5 times. Be sure to do it fully each time, all the way down and back up.
- Start the engine and allow it to idle for 30 seconds or so while the cam timing sorts itself out.

source:

Throttle delay

www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk

Your source sounds a handsome chap

I want to try that procedure in the new car. The throttle pedal seems very sensitive in general, but still feels like it has that tiny dead zone at the top.

 

[Bathroom_Security]

Have you tried to "Reset" the throttle sensor?
I did it before the Pedal commander and I noticed a difference.

- Get in the car and switch on the ignition (don't start the engine).
- Depress the throttle pedal 5 times. Be sure to do it fully each time, all the way down and back up.
- Start the engine and allow it to idle for 30 seconds or so while the cam timing sorts itself out.

source:

Throttle delay

www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk

I have yeah, unsure if it made any difference tbh

Looking forward to reading what you have to say about the pedal commander

The lag is probably the biggest issue but if it makes pulling out of junctions easier then I'll get one, just don't want a hyper sensitive throttle