GR Yaris (Gen 2) GR Yaris Mk2 (MY2024->)

Hi guys,
Last saturday i toke my MK2 to her first proper track day. Short but fast track in Italy with a wet part for couple of good drifted corners.
Outdoor temperature 5 * Celsius. After 8 km the car right in the middle of a corner decided to leave me with FWD for overheat. With massive disappointment i discovered that my MK2 has exactly same issue as MK1. Had to stop to cool it down every 5 min to a point i decided to stop and go home.
Clearly a waste of money for the day, long drive to the track for no Fun at all. Went straight to Toyota yesterday to check if anyone else has same issue and plug the car to their software to check. Big surprise...there is a software update needed message exactly for the differential overheat (probably heat sensor calibrated too low temp.) Thursday they will do the update as they had no time yesterday. Funny thing is that when i saw their PC monitor it says update from 2023. :unsure: My car is 2024, delivered past July, how is it possible that my car left Japan without this update from 2023???????????????
WTF Toyota!!!!!???????????? Is it only mine or we all have same issue? I already drove 5500 km on mine and clearly never drove it pushing the limits as i did last saturday tho. Would like to hear from you!!!! below a photo of the message after i restarted the car and drove out of the track to cool it down.
Will keep you posted

View attachment 32702

IMO, this has been the most significant letdown of the GR Yaris/Corolla. The fact that the transfer case overheats so easily—and in your case, apparently the diff as well—after four years in production is astonishing. I have serious doubts that the recent software fix resolves the issue. This problem was thoroughly analyzed in a recent episode of Savagegeese, and it highlights a fundamental flaw.

For a car touted as a motorsport-inspired beast, capable of enduring hardcore circuit thrashing, it’s shocking that it can’t handle more than a few laps in the hands of an advanced driver without losing AWD. It’s baffling that this issue hasn’t sparked greater outrage, especially with the MK2, which was supposed to address all the shortcomings of the MK1. How can a car marketed as track-capable fail so spectacularly in its core mission? This needs to be called out more loudly.

 
Good morning, after 2 hours at Toyota for the software update they gave me back the car saying that the update is not working because is a MK1 update!! RIDICOULOUS !!! Will bring back the car next Wednesday for them to try to find a solution.
I'm so disappointed !!!!!!!!! đŸ˜¤
 
IMO, this has been the most significant letdown of the GR Yaris/Corolla. The fact that the transfer case overheats so easily—and in your case, apparently the diff as well—after four years in production is astonishing. I have serious doubts that the recent software fix resolves the issue. This problem was thoroughly analyzed in a recent episode of Savagegeese, and it highlights a fundamental flaw.

For a car touted as a motorsport-inspired beast, capable of enduring hardcore circuit thrashing, it’s shocking that it can’t handle more than a few laps in the hands of an advanced driver without losing AWD. It’s baffling that this issue hasn’t sparked greater outrage, especially with the MK2, which was supposed to address all the shortcomings of the MK1. How can a car marketed as track-capable fail so spectacularly in its core mission? This needs to be called out more loudly.



Quick premise: I won't take my Mk2 to track (at least by now), since it's sort of my daily car, so I have no direct experience of it with both the Mk1 and Mk2 I owned (and own).
On my Mk1 I just had some intense use on steep and twisty slippery b-roads (so quite hard on diffs), but never got a 2wd warning.

Online there is quite some rage towards Honda from the CTR owners (FL5 included) because of the exhaust system design that causes quick overheating of the engine on track, and the GRC has its own problems, likely due to overheating sensors set on a way prudential level.
So, since the CTR and the GRC are both great cars in their different ways, I guess the conclusion is that no hot hatch with stock settings is 100% ready for a proper use on track.
 
I guess the conclusion is that no hot hatch with stock settings is 100% ready for a proper use on track.
Quick correction. No road car is. That's why they are road cars and not race cars.
A GR Supra is not ready for the track from the factory and that's despite it being a dedicated 2-seater sports car. Even a Porsche GT3 RS needs some things done if you seriously want to abuse it on track. Not to mention you can pay another 90K on top of an already 200K+ car to make it even faster on track with a Manthey kit. You wanna accuse Porsche of cutting corners?

It's funny that despite probably over 90% of people never tracking their cars they talk about things like they are somehow common occurrences. I have never had any warnings in my 4 years of ownership. Most of it with a bit more power too.
I used to have a FK8 Type R too. Never managed to overheat that either even on a Autobahn run doing its top speed.

You will be going to prison long before you ever manage those things on the streets so what's the deal?
If you are serious about track work then you need to invest a lot of time and money. Most hardcore track people should know that by now. There is always something to improve. There is always something that breaks.
A Rally2 GR Yaris costs 200K for a good reason.
 
Focus RS also had the same issue on track, also the powersteering. Some owners even saw diff overheat on the road.

I imagine for both the RS and the GR the issue is made worse with stickier tires.

I've never had an overheat on track, likely because the tyres go off before anything else can overheat and I backed off at that point.
 
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I drove the mk2 on track.

My impression on the new diff settings in comparison to the mk1 in sliding the car.

They have made it to much fwd in my opinion. The car rotates on going into corner on braking perfectly but the more the steeringwheel is going straight the car pulls to much on the front wheels. Tried all settings but they are the same at pulling to much on the front wheels.

The 50:50 split and the 30:70 split was better on the mk1.

Turn in is better on the new car and also the power bump you feel very good.

But for sliding the car on a wet track the mk1 diff settings are nicer.
 
The car rotates on going into corner on braking perfectly but the more the steeringwheel is going straight the car pulls to much on the front wheels.
Are you saying there is no way to do a sustained slide?
 
Are you saying there is no way to do a sustained slide?
Easily done in either Gravel or Track mode on snow or ice, have not tried this abuse on simply wet road. In my experience track mode mostly gives power to the rear if you have turned the wheel some and are flooring it, you can also see it in the power distribution on the dash.
 
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