GR Yaris Engine stop and start problem.
- Thread starter mark_pony
- Start date
It's a fault, it's under warranty.
If other GRYs don't do the same thing, then it's not a feature.
I think it might make sense to show a bit longer on the video if you can. It cuts out right at the interesting part for me. For example, it looks like it's still idling at 1k after the button press... but what happens if you move off, and stop again... does the engine actually stop?
Have you connected any kind of code reader to the car, see if there's any faults with that system?
-edit-
And as I wasn't sure I tested at lunch whether the start stop resets when I change between normal and track. It does not. It's totally independent in mine. I get in press track, and the stop start... or vice versa... then got to the end of a drive and pressed normal, and stop start was still off. Are people really seeing that turn on again when they change modes?
Have you connected any kind of code reader to the car, see if there's any faults with that system?
-edit-
And as I wasn't sure I tested at lunch whether the start stop resets when I change between normal and track. It does not. It's totally independent in mine. I get in press track, and the stop start... or vice versa... then got to the end of a drive and pressed normal, and stop start was still off. Are people really seeing that turn on again when they change modes?
Last edited:
Yes.
There is a vedio that makes it easier to understand.
Some problem are difficult to explain.
Sorry wasn’t sure if that was you pressing the button or it doing it.
As @kinboshi says this is a fault and the dealer needs to rectify for you.
That's ok that's a good question. It's been a year since this problem, it's not easy to shoot, it's random and doesn't last the whole trip, sometimes once and sometimes many times. I don’t have any other equipment, I can only use my right-handed steering wheel and left-handed mobile phone. this is a false demonstration, despite the slow speed at rush hour.
If I'm going to fake it, I don't need to wait until now to shoot the video. dealer needs me to provide video, they can't understand my problem.
This is a worldwide family and we need to be honest with each other, creating fear does not give me any advantage.
This car and engine is a brand new design, and there may be many problems that we don't know, so we can meet here.
Thanks for the replies from everyone.
Michael Knight
Totally Hooked
Nothing circulates in GR Yaris once engine is stopped so it is good to idle some time after fast drive - of course even better to drive easy for some time as cooling pack gets then fresh air.
That’s really interesting I’ve always been sympathetic after heavy use but surprised they allow stop start in track mode if that’s the case.
The video is just to show that the system will boot itself (lights off). The car then runs on a stop-start sequence until you turn the system off with the switch.
I have toyota TIS Techstream and no any faults code in my system.
Photos from last year
Last edited:
I want auto stop/start in all modes, with the option of turning it off off necessary. I often drive in track mode or sport mode, but have to change the mode from sport if I go into city centre driving where I want/need the auto stop/start. It's good I don't have to do it in track mode.
While the manual states that engine stop and start the system only works in Normal mode, it turns out that the system works in Track mode as well. It could be a bug, my rain bug is a special case.
I'd love it fixed if I could, but I'd rather have the dealer fix my blistered roof as soon as possible.
I'd love it fixed if I could, but I'd rather have the dealer fix my blistered roof as soon as possible.
It's weird as it says it in the manual, but my start stop works even in track mode. I pretty much always have the car in track, and occasionally forget to do imt and start stop, and I always curse myself when I stop at the lights and my engine cuts out and I get the start stop message on the dash.
Yeah, the manual isn't quite right on this. The auto stop/start operates on normal and track mode. Only sport mode disables it by default.
I think everyone with the car experiences the same thing.
I think everyone with the car experiences the same thing.
Attached is the TIS data log file.
And found that when the A-OFF light off, TIS will be disconnected.
Please see if data can solve the problem.
Thank you all
YARIS_G16E-GTS_2023-10-5 071847
And found that when the A-OFF light off, TIS will be disconnected.
Please see if data can solve the problem.
Thank you all
YARIS_G16E-GTS_2023-10-5 071847
Attachments
Last edited:
After a year of testing and inspection, the dealer and I finally found the problem. The problem is that the WIPER ECU interferes with the MAIN BODY ECU. The two ECUs are very close, so the WIPER ECU may cause EMI interference to the MAIN BODY ECU, causing the IG power supply of the ENGINE STOP AND START ECU to drop below 11V instantly. This situation causes the ENGINE STOP AND START ECU to mistakenly believe that the vehicle has been restarted, but the momentary voltage drop has no effect on other systems. The dealer and I did a lot of research and testing together and ended up replacing the wiper ECU from the show car. It is currently the rainy season in my area, and the original problem has not occurred so far. The dealer ordered new parts for me to repair it, the part number is 85940-52100.
SckSqzBngBlo
Dedicated member
They are making you pay?
Doesn't make sense that emi has increased over time to the point of being a nuisance.
Why not shield the ecus from each other?
Wipers would draw some decent current on start up but would have thought there would be a capacitor charged for that?
Are you sure your battery isn't on the way out? Did the dealer check the battery thoroughly?
Doesn't make sense that emi has increased over time to the point of being a nuisance.
Why not shield the ecus from each other?
Wipers would draw some decent current on start up but would have thought there would be a capacitor charged for that?
Are you sure your battery isn't on the way out? Did the dealer check the battery thoroughly?
It's under warranty and I don't have to pay anything.
Any electrical device on the vehicle should not generate EMI interference, otherwise it will fail certification. Interference should not occur by design, and if it does occur it indicates that the part is defective.
We confirmed our theory by wrapping the parts in aluminum foil to try to block EMI. As a result, the fault reappeared immediately. We moved the ECUs away from each other again, and the fault occurred again after the time when it should have occurred had passed. This indirectly confirmed our inference. After replacing the parts of another car, the fault has not occurred again so far.
My battery is healthy and has been tested and recharged many times. I am a vehicle technician so I can ensure that vehicles and parts are functioning properly and communicate issues and discussions effectively with dealers.
I'm so glad I took the time to solve this annoying little problem and share it with everyone. Thanks also to everyone who helps with testing or offers solutions here. So far I only know that a friend from Hungary and I have the same problem.
CerN
Totally Hooked
Nice to have it documented here in case someone else runs into the same issue! Thank you for the thorough writeup! Good that you finally got your car sorted 
